Pairing Rubbers to Blades...

This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Dec 2018
22
14
63
I'm currently using the Nittaku KVL Defensive blade with Nittaku Spiral rubber on both sides. I'm thinking of moving towards a more offensive paddle because my 95% defensive game isn't standing up to the 1700+ competition I've been going against since I returned from my 10+ years away from the game. I've got a couple "general" questions about rubbers and paddles I'm hoping you can help me with - just to try and narrow down my new paddle choice (from the 10000 different combinations that seem to be available). I'd guesstimate I'm an "early intermediate"...pretty good backhand from a defensive posture and improving forehand, but much too inconsistent overall and ineffective when trying to return 1700+ level players multiple spin serves.

When picking a blade and rubbers, do players typically put offensive rubbers on offensive blades (and likewise, defensive rubbers on defensive blades)?

Or do players sometimes use defensive rubbers on offensive blades (to tame the power of the offensive blade)? Or offensive rubbers on defensive blades (to give the defensive blade some more power)?

I ask because I thought maybe sticking with a defensive blade and putting an offensive rubber on it (or maybe going with an offensive blade and defensive rubber) might help me make a smoother transition to a more powerful game.

I've never used pips so is there any reason to change that now at my level?

In your opinion, what would be the best way to narrow down my blade/rubber choices? Pricewise I know I want to stay under $200 for blade and rubbers. Are there three or four companies that just put out stellar products in that price range?

I'm sorry about all the questions, but I'm must completely overwhelmed with all the blade/rubber choices that I just don't have any clue where to begin.

Again, I appreciate all of your patience and help with all of my questions. There is just so much more to this game than I realized when I was growing up. I'm trying to gain knowledge and help anyway I can. Last night one of the 1700+ players was nice enough to give me a free 20 minute lesson on getting my forehand drive to be more consistent and effective. I was soaking in every word he said. I felt like Daniel LaRusso in the Karate Kid when Mr. Miyagi was teaching him!

added info: I live in the US and will be ordering online from here

Have a fantastic day!

TripleB
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: JJ Ng
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2024
77
56
143
Different people have different opinions on this, but for me its the blade that matters the most. So, if your blade is too stiff, no matter how spinny your rubbers are, there just wont be enough dwell time to create this spin. Likewise, if your blade is soft and flexible, no matter how fast the rubbers are, there will be lower power cap than with a stiffer and harder blade. Are you a classic defender? Meaning, do you chop on both sides?

Generally speaking, the rubber and blade match depends on your style and preferences. Not sure if this is a widespread consensus, but I myself believe that in the offensive game, if you play with more power than spin, you need a slower and spinnier setup, in order to balance your power, and make it easier to generate spin that makes it possible to keep your powerful shots on the table.

If you prefer playing with spin however, you need a quicker blade to compensate for that lack of power.
A good example on the pro scene is Timo Boll and Wang Chuqin. Timo was a spin and consistency player most of his career, so he played mostly with tenergy 05 (which is bouncy) and the boll alc (which is quick and bouncy too).

Wang on the other hand has a monstrosity of a forehand, and he uses an innerforce style blade, with a larger head, which makes it less bouncy, but gives it a higher spin ceiling, enabling him to do those low powerful drives.
As far as defense these days, I'd say its really difficult to rely solely on defense. Good players wont have much difficulty capitalizing on your mistakes, so an added pressure in the ability to counterattack weaker loops is a great addition to your gameplay.

To stay as similar as possible, I'd choose something like the Yinhe jupiter 3 or hurricane 8-80 for your forehand, and friendship super fx 1.8 or 1.5 for the backhand. The blade can stay the same, as it'd help you pressure opponents with spin (again, I dont know your actual style, a video of you playing a game would be really helpful).
 
says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
Well-Known Member
Apr 2020
3,948
2,370
8,877
I'm must completely overwhelmed with all the blade/rubber choices that I just don't have any clue where to begin.
you and most other players have that problem. A good start is to stick with your current playing style AND keep the blade.
Change 1 rubber at the time only and observe the difference . Note everything down, be methodical.
Remember it is called "PLAYING" Table tennis so make sure that the main thing is having fun and trying to find the perfect setup is of secondary importance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
I believe that a rubber with a harder sponge works better together with a harder, stiffer blade, giving the combined feedback of them both. A hard sponged rubber on a softer 5-ply wooden blade isn't optimal I think, and a too soft sponged rubber on a fast carbon blade could be tough to handle as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lodro and TripleB
I read through the OP's entire post. I agree. 100,000+ combination is overwhelming.

Unless you are a classic defender (like Joo Sae-hyuk), then nobody uses a defensive blade. That's pretty true across the board.

In addition, do you have regular coaching or not? If not, then we have to compensate for that in your set-up.

Finally in general, forehand has a bigger stroke so people usually use a harder sponge. Backhand strokes on the other hand are compact and fast, quick, almost like a flick. So people in general like boucy rubber on that side so they can maintain the speed without "too much effort like the forehand side" so to speak.

For blade, I have always recommend a blade that you can grow into; meaning as you advance your rating and your skills, you can keep the blade and simply change the rubber.

My blade of choice for you is Tibhar Stratus Power Wood. It is OFF-. Solid 5-ply wood. Not too fast, not too slow. You can feel the control. I would definitely not recommend carbon right now in your development.

Tibhar Stratus Power Wood is currently on sales for the week (sales ends this Sunday in the afternoon) 25% off at $36.45. That is a great price for a great blade at Tabletennis11. (www.tabletennis11.com).

Forehand. If you have coaching, then I would recommend Chinese rubbers. The good old Hurricane 3 commercial orange sponge 39 degree for $25-$26 works very well. But Chinese rubbers require more coaching. So looking at the on weekly on sales item on Tabletennis11, Xiom Vega Korea, black max sponge $27.82 could be good for your forehand.

Backhand. If you want something cheap and affordable, non-tensor and a lot of control, then pick Neottec Hinomi-M on sales for $13.14. I have a sheet of this one. It is non-tensor so a lot of control. Do not expect super fast speed out of that. Red. Sponge thickness 2.0mm.

If you want something faster and "more bouncy" then choose an ESN rubber that is soft. Looking at the weekly sales list, I would recommend Donic Bluestorm Z3, on sales for $34.64. I would recommend the thinnest sponge available at 1.9mm red. Now if you want to spruce up your new blade and find a rubber more colorfully, then pick 1.9mm blue.

When you add it up, you have to hit about $110 or $108 to get free shipping sent to the US from Tabletennis11.

If you want a shirt and don't care about the color (not sure what your size is), Andro T-Shirt Alpha Melange mint is a the most comfortable tennis shirts I have worn (trust me, I tried a lot of brands including Andro, Donic, Butterfly, Li-Ning and Tibhar). That is the most comfortable shirt I have ever worn for table tennis or sports purpose in general. By the way I have tried other Andro clothing but nothing is as comfortable as Alpha Melange clothing series comes in various colors. They are all good. But Andro's other line of clothings, I don't like at all; one felt really plastic-like when sweat builds up.

Plus a rubber cleaning sponge from Nittaku. Some 3-star balls from Nittaku. I am sure you can hit $110 or $108 for free shipping.

That would be my advice.

So if your budget is $200 for the blade and two rubbers, we can even hit that goal plus something (clothing, cleaning sponge, 3-star balls) extra for $110 roughly, only. You don't have to spend big bucks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: darkky65 and Sims
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Dec 2018
22
14
63
Are you a classic defender? Meaning, do you chop on both sides?
Unless you are a classic defender (like Joo Sae-hyuk), then nobody uses a defensive blade. That's pretty true across the board.

In addition, do you have regular coaching or not? If not, then we have to compensate for that in your set-up.

For blade, I have always recommend a blade that you can grow into; meaning as you advance your rating and your skills, you can keep the blade and simply change the rubber.

My blade of choice for you is Tibhar Stratus Power Wood. It is OFF-. Solid 5-ply wood. Not too fast, not too slow. You can feel the control. I would definitely not recommend carbon right now in your development.

Bronzi:

Thank you very much for taking the time and all the information as well as advice you offered - this helps me SO much!!!

I am not a classic defender as you described and now that you say this I'm not really sure I'm a "defender" at all. My game (since I've never really found the need to change it because I never got to play against higher level players) has always been: stay close to the table, hit as many backhands as possible, using short quick upward strokes, getting as much spin as I can with those strokes, putting the ball quickly back onto my opponents side (either deep and usually in the corners or with a sharp angle), and creating errors on their part. If I got a semi-high ball or a ball that backed me up on the forehand side I would hit a large looper with power, but my first option was always the backhand close to the table.

Again, I truly appreciate all the advice and recommendations. I'm definitely going read over this information numerous times!


JJ Ng:

I appreciate all the information and especially the information about blades/rubbers and actually keeping the cost way below the $200 I initially said.

I do not have a regular coach. I've played three times since I came back from my 10+ years off. The last two times I've played with three 1700+ players who abuse my weaknesses. Last night one of them took me off to another table and helped me work on the proper stroke when hitting big offensive forehands. I learned more than I could ever imagined in 20 minutes.

I agree with getting a blade that I can grow with. That's what I was sort of hoping for with the blade/rubber...maybe something that's a bit advanced for me right now but if I keep working hard on my game it's something that I'll be able to use for quite a while.

Wow, thank you so much for narrowing down my blade/rubber choices to these select few...I'll definitely check everyone of them out...as well as the shirts.

Again, I cannot thank and you and everyone for your patience with my questions and taking (a lot) of time offering solid advice that will be extremely helpful in my decision making process.

Something I should have mentioned in my original post (and I'm going to back and add it) I live in the US and will be ordering online here

TripleB
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sims and JJ Ng
Bronzi:

Thank you very much for taking the time and all the information as well as advice you offered - this helps me SO much!!!

I am not a classic defender as you described and now that you say this I'm not really sure I'm a "defender" at all. My game (since I've never really found the need to change it because I never got to play against higher level players) has always been: stay close to the table, hit as many backhands as possible, using short quick upward strokes, getting as much spin as I can with those strokes, putting the ball quickly back onto my opponents side (either deep and usually in the corners or with a sharp angle), and creating errors on their part. If I got a semi-high ball or a ball that backed me up on the forehand side I would hit a large looper with power, but my first option was always the backhand close to the table.

Again, I truly appreciate all the advice and recommendations. I'm definitely going read over this information numerous times!


JJ Ng:

I appreciate all the information and especially the information about blades/rubbers and actually keeping the cost way below the $200 I initially said.

I do not have a regular coach. I've played three times since I came back from my 10+ years off. The last two times I've played with three 1700+ players who abuse my weaknesses. Last night one of them took me off to another table and helped me work on the proper stroke when hitting big offensive forehands. I learned more than I could ever imagined in 20 minutes.

I agree with getting a blade that I can grow with. That's what I was sort of hoping for with the blade/rubber...maybe something that's a bit advanced for me right now but if I keep working hard on my game it's something that I'll be able to use for quite a while.

Wow, thank you so much for narrowing down my blade/rubber choices to these select few...I'll definitely check everyone of them out...as well as the shirts.

Again, I cannot thank and you and everyone for your patience with my questions and taking (a lot) of time offering solid advice that will be extremely helpful in my decision making process.

Something I should have mentioned in my original post (and I'm going to back and add it) I live in the US and will be ordering online here

TripleB
You are welcome. I love Tabletennis11. If you order from them, say, tonight or tomorrow, to take advantage of the weekly special, they will probably mail it out to you by Monday (there is no Labor Day is Estonia, as far as I know) and you might get your shipment by Wednesday or Thursday at the latest. Their shipping time is simply incredible!

Dandoy takes longer to ship out and is not as communicative so even though the prices are similar, I tend to channel people to Tabletennis11. Since Neottec Hinomi-M is only $13.14, you might as get that one plus Donic Bluestorm Z3 at the same time. You can slap on Neottec Hinomi-M on the backhand first. If you like it, great. Keep it there. If it is too slow, then in a couple months, swap it out and put on the Donic Bluestorm Z3.

I think your style is not defensive. I think your style is more of a countering style and control style. You use the backhand to control the rally and counter as appropriate. Therefore in a way your backhand rubber becomes a key. If get both Neottec Hinomi-M and Donic Bluestorm Z3, you will figure out if you like one over the other over time. Now that you described your style, which is backhand oriented, I am now curious if you should get both for the backhand to try because, well, Neottec Hinomi-M is really cheap! Now is the quality as good as Sriver or Mark V? It is not. But it plays about the same and for less than $14, we cannot really complain.

I am just not sure with you being away from the game for so long and have only been back on the table for 3 sessions, what playing level are you? But since you are backhand dominated, it might be a good idea to try two different rubbers, one classic non-tensor and one soft, bouncy ESN tensor rubber.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Dec 2018
22
14
63
I am just not sure with you being away from the game for so long and have only been back on the table for 3 sessions, what playing level are you? But since you are backhand dominated, it might be a good idea to try two different rubbers, one classic non-tensor and one soft, bouncy ESN tensor rubber.
I think your style is not defensive. I think your style is more of a countering style and control style. You use the backhand to control the rally and counter as appropriate. Therefore in a way your backhand rubber becomes a key.

Thank you very much for the added advice and information!

I heard one of the 1700+ players mention 'tensor' rubber. Is that just a type of rubber that has more power than "non-tensor" rubber because of how it's made?

But yes, I'm definitely more comfortable using my backhand (as I am in all racquet/paddle sports). I think it comes from the fact that I played baseball left handed growing up, but I play racquet/paddle sports right handed. Therefore hitting my backhand is like hitting the ball when I played baseball - more power and more control with my backhand. I never thought about it, but I guess that may change how I would set up my blade/rubber combo compared to most players who love their forehand.

I'm really excited to try something other than my current blade/rubber combo just to see what differences (advantages) a more offensive blade/rubber combo might bring to my game.

Your advice is helping me a great deal so I appreciate you taking the time to offer it!

TripleB
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2024
77
56
143
I believe that a rubber with a harder sponge works better together with a harder, stiffer blade, giving the combined feedback of them both. A hard sponged rubber on a softer 5-ply wooden blade isn't optimal I think, and a too soft sponged rubber on a fast carbon blade could be tough to handle as well.
Well, im rocking this exact setup (The virtuoso+ isnt the softest wooden blade out there, but has a nice amount of flex to it), and the forehand is just perfect. For the backhand you do need great technique, or a quicker rubber.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2024
77
56
143
Thank you very much for the added advice and information!

I heard one of the 1700+ players mention 'tensor' rubber. Is that just a type of rubber that has more power than "non-tensor" rubber because of how it's made?
Tensor rubber is basically just a trade name for a rubber with built in catapult effect. Those rubbers are faster on the low end because of that spring effect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2024
77
56
143
Bronzi:

Thank you very much for taking the time and all the information as well as advice you offered - this helps me SO much!!!

I am not a classic defender as you described and now that you say this I'm not really sure I'm a "defender" at all. My game (since I've never really found the need to change it because I never got to play against higher level players) has always been: stay close to the table, hit as many backhands as possible, using short quick upward strokes, getting as much spin as I can with those strokes, putting the ball quickly back onto my opponents side (either deep and usually in the corners or with a sharp angle), and creating errors on their part. If I got a semi-high ball or a ball that backed me up on the forehand side I would hit a large looper with power, but my first option was always the backhand close to the table.

Again, I truly appreciate all the advice and recommendations. I'm definitely going read over this information numerous times!
Seems like you arent a defender at all. You are more of a counter attacker, in which case I'd say JJ Ng's blade recomendation is spot on, not too quick, not too slow, and stiff enough for this style to work out. As for the rubbers, I think something like a Rakza 7 soft or a Fastarc c1 would be better for the backhand, as they are kind of a new version of the classic rubbers - consistent, controllable and not too quick, yet with good spin. They are cheap as well, and last forever. Cant say the same about Z3, which is quite bouncy (at least for me).
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB and JJ Ng
Seems like you arent a defender at all. You are more of a counter attacker, in which case I'd say JJ Ng's blade recomendation is spot on, not too quick, not too slow, and stiff enough for this style to work out. As for the rubbers, I think something like a Rakza 7 soft or a Fastarc c1 would be better for the backhand, as they are kind of a new version of the classic rubbers - consistent, controllable and not too quick, yet with good spin. They are cheap as well, and last forever. Cant say the same about Z3, which is quite bouncy (at least for me).
I agree with you completely! His style is not defensive but more like a counter attacker using the backhand A LOT.

I like Raza 7 soft and Fastarc C1 as well. In fact Fastarc C1 is a tensor rubber that does not have too much tensor effect.

Going back to the original post, I asked him to set it up based on what TT11 has on weekly sales. With his budget, he won't hit either 25% or 30% off. I think he is better off assembling the racket based on the weekly sales so he gets more bang for the buck. Unfortunately Rakza 7 soft and Fastarc C1 are not on weekly sales this week so choosing a non-tensor AND a soft bouncy ESN rubber would be good. Since backhand is where he plays more of the time, I think he should try both non-tensor and tensor, and see what he likes. Backhand is where he tries to win the most points.

@TripleB you are welcome. Let me give you some background. I have played on and off since I was 13. Latest time, I was away from the sport for about 8-10 years before coming back to play more seriously in 2018. So game has changed. Speed glue was banned. Ball went up in size from 38mm to 40+mm. Ball went from celluloid to plastic. Speed has slowed down and spin has diminished. Therefore various companies especially ESN (the largest third-party table tennis rubber manufacturing plants) and Butterfly have come up with their "built-in" tensor rubbers, the most famous of which are Tenergy and Evolutions series from Tibhar. Most tensor rubbers are produced by ESN, such as Donic Acuda series 1-3 (1 being the hardest sponge and 3 being the softest sponge), Xiom Vega Pro/X/Asia/Japan/Europe (Pro and X being the hardest sponge, Asia/Japan being in the middle and Europe is the softest). I have EJ'ed a lot in that space as my backhand has adapted to: Rozena, Fastarc C-1, Barracuda, Acuda S2, Barracuda, EL-P, etc. Classic rubbers (non-tensor) are still around: Sriver and Mark V.

However in terms of my recommendation, Sriver and Mark V are still very good rubber and it is probably what the OP used a long time ago?

Neottec Hinomi-M for only $13.14 is a much better classic, more linear, less bouncy rubber, similar to Sriver and Mark V. If you try it and you like it, either stick with you or maybe get Mark V later because Mark V lasts like forever. And for someone who tries to win by controlling the ball to wherever you want to go, then a linear, not-bouncy such as Hinomi-M, Sriver and Mark V might actually be very good on that backhand. Sponge thickness then should be 2.0mm.

Donic Bluestorm Z3 is a ESN-factory made tensor rubber that has quite a bit of a bounce. So it will be harder to control. But OP also talked about how he wants to get more speed out of the blade so 1.9mm sponge (the thinnest) is what I would recommend. Bouncy but by having the thinnest sponge it will be not too bouncy. If OP likes Donic Bluestorm Z3 and wants to move up or lateral in terms of sponge hardness, he will have other choices in the future if you really like ESN tensor rubber. For example, he can simply move up to Donic Bluestorm Z2 if he likes the rubber and wants to move up in terms of sponge hardness.

I basically try to plan his future a bit, assuming OP will continue to play and improve. The equipment can then grow with him.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2024
77
56
143
Well, good points, not gonna lie. I dont really buy on T11, so I couldnt provide any reliable information on that topic. As far as the Neottec goes, Im not sure if its a good recommendation, as sooner or later OP would probably notice that the lack of spin/power in his shots takes away from the pressure for his opponents, so maybe a more modern solution could be better.
Donic Bluestorm Z3 is a ESN-factory made tensor rubber that has quite a bit of a bounce. So it will be harder to control. But OP also talked about how he wants to get more speed out of the blade so 1.9mm sponge (the thinnest) is what I would recommend. Bouncy but by having the thinnest sponge it will be not too bouncy. If OP likes Donic Bluestorm Z3 and wants to move up or lateral in terms of sponge hardness, he will have other choices in the future if you really like ESN tensor rubber. For example, he can simply move up to Donic Bluestorm Z2 if he likes the rubber and wants to move up in terms of sponge hardness.

I basically try to plan his future a bit, assuming OP will continue to play and improve. The equipment can then grow with him.
Maybe im biased, but for me the Z3 didnt have enough grip on the ball to play such a style. I just really like grippy rubbers, and the Z3 certainly wasnt one of them. The hudge bounce didnt help either, that's why I usually dont recommend it - it would be stupid of me to recommend something that I'd never personally use. You might actually be right, but im just biased against the Z3.

Btw, that was a great summary of the recent changes in tabletennis - love it! I think it really did help OP understand it!
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Dec 2018
22
14
63
Seems like you arent a defender at all. You are more of a counter attacker, in which case I'd say JJ Ng's blade recomendation is spot on, not too quick, not too slow, and stiff enough for this style to work out. As for the rubbers, I think something like a Rakza 7 soft or a Fastarc c1 would be better for the backhand, as they are kind of a new version of the classic rubbers - consistent, controllable and not too quick, yet with good spin.
I agree with you completely! His style is not defensive but more like a counter attacker using the backhand A LOT.

I like Raza 7 soft and Fastarc C1 as well. In fact Fastarc C1 is a tensor rubber that does not have too much tensor effect.

I basically try to plan his future a bit, assuming OP will continue to play and improve. The equipment can then grow with him.
Donic Bluestorm Z3 is a ESN-factory made tensor rubber that has quite a bit of a bounce.

Bronzi and JJ Ng:

I want to thank you both for all the helpful advice, patience with my questions, actually thinking about my game when considering what paddle would be best for me, and the updates made to the game! ALL of it is a tremendous help and fantastic learning experience for me!

More than likely I will be ordering from P. Palace (wasn't sure if I could say the full name on here or not). Ordered from them a few times long ago and they went above and beyond normal customer service...regardless of the product, I always try to reward top rate customer service.

Definitely a counter attacker playing backhand as many times as I possibly can (at least right now...the lesson with my forehand on Thursday helped ease the fear of hitting it more often than I do now).

I don't want to spend more if it doesn't buy me something better and/or something I can "grow into," but I'm willing to spend up to $200.

Believe it or not, as I was going through the blade/rubber choices this afternoon, a couple that stuck out were the Donic Bluestorm (I think it appeared when I was looking at one of their paddles) and the Rakza 7 (when I was looking at some rubbers compared to the Mark V).

Love the idea of maybe a different rubber on the backhand and forehand since I use them in different manners: backhand for many counter attacks/attacks/angles/heavy spin and forehand mainly for heavy spin/power shots.

The only two decent paddles I've found in my ping pong closet are the Tibhar IVL with VariSpin D.TecS (couldn't stand this paddle...too light and no spin on the rubber...I feel like my game has to have mega spin from the rubber) and the Nittaku KVL with Nittaku Spiral rubber (like this pretty well, much more spin than the Tibhar and a slightly heavier feel - also like the fact that the paddle face is larger).

As I looked through the multiple blades, it seems I'm drawn to the following brands (but I have no idea why): Stiga, Yasaka, Nittaku, and Donic (never heard of this brand before but seem to offer a lot of choices with great reviews). Not so good of luck with Butterfly and Tibhar in the past (more than likely because of poor specific paddle choices on my part) makes me less inspired to try them again.

I know ratings (speed/control/etc) are pretty arbitrary, but in trying to narrow down the blade choices staring at me, I went to P.P. and sorted the blades using the following parameters: Speed of 80 or more, Control of 67 or more, flared handle, price under $125, and from Stiga, Yasaka, Nittaku, Donic, or Tibhar. That got me down to 53 blade choices :ROFLMAO:

Again, I cannot say thank you enough for all of your help and recommendations. I'm definitely going to take a very close look at everything you mentioned here in this post!

TripleB
 
Last edited:
Bronzi and JJ Ng:

I want to thank you both for all the helpful advice, patience with my questions, actually thinking about my game when considering what paddle would be best for me, and the updates made to the game! ALL of it is a tremendous help and fantastic learning experience for me!

More than likely I will be ordering from P. Palace (wasn't sure if I could say the full name on here or not). Ordered from them a few times long ago and they went above and beyond normal customer service...regardless of the product, I always try to reward top rate customer service.

Definitely a counter attacker playing backhand as many times as I possibly can (at least right now...the lesson with my forehand on Thursday helped ease the fear of hitting it more often than I do now).

I don't want to spend more if it doesn't buy me something better and/or something I can "grow into," but I'm willing to spend up to $200.

Believe it or not, as I was going through the blade/rubber choices this afternoon, a couple that stuck out were the Donic Bluestorm (I think it appeared when I was looking at one of their paddles) and the Rakza 7 (when I was looking at some rubbers compared to the Mark V).

Love the idea of maybe a different rubber on the backhand and forehand since I use them in different manners: backhand for many counter attacks/attacks/angles/heavy spin and forehand mainly for heavy spin/power shots.

The only two decent paddles I've found in my ping pong closet are the Tibhar IVL with VariSpin D.TecS (couldn't stand this paddle...too light and no spin on the rubber...I feel like my game has to have mega spin from the rubber) and the Nittaku KVL with Nittaku Spiral rubber (like this pretty well, much more spin than the Tibhar and a slightly heavier feel - also like the fact that the paddle face is larger).

As I looked through the multiple blades, it seems I'm drawn to the following brands (but I have no idea why): Stiga, Yasaka, Nittaku, and Donic (never heard of this brand before but seem to offer a lot of choices with great reviews). Not so good of luck with Butterfly and Tibhar in the past (more than likely because of poor specific paddle choices on my part) makes me less inspired to try them again.

I know ratings (speed/control/etc) are pretty arbitrary, but in trying to narrow down the blade choices staring at me, I went to P.P. and sorted the blades using the following parameters: Speed of 80 or more, Control of 67 or more, flared handle, price under $125, and from Stiga, Yasaka, Nittaku, Donic, or Tibhar. That got me down to 53 blade choices :ROFLMAO:

Again, I cannot say thank you enough for all of your help and recommendations. I'm definitely going to take a very close look at everything you mentioned here in this post!

TripleB
If you are going to buy from Paddle Palace, then get the shakehand combo special. That will get you the best pricing there. A couple blades in the combo special stand out for me: Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon. I used that blade in 2018 when I first came back. It is carbon but more of a slow carbon.

Hunter is the in house blades made and sold by Paddle Palace so they heavily promote the Hunter brand. I have a clubmate who had a Hunter and he likes it just fine.

Those are literally and figuratively my two cents! :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: TripleB
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Dec 2018
22
14
63
If you are going to buy from Paddle Palace, then get the shakehand combo special. That will get you the best pricing there. A couple blades in the combo special stand out for me: Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon. I used that blade in 2018 when I first came back. It is carbon but more of a slow carbon.

Hunter is the in house blades made and sold by Paddle Palace so they heavily promote the Hunter brand. I have a clubmate who had a Hunter and he likes it just fine.

Those are literally and figuratively my two cents! :)
As I looked through the different offerings from the 5 brands I mentioned above, the Ma Lin Carbon Soft was one of choices I was looking at closely. I'm not sure how different the Carbon and the Carbon Soft are. I would assume less power and more control with the Soft?

I've finally got it narrowed down to six or seven blades: Nittaku Septear, Nittaku Kasumi Basic, Donic Waldner Senso Carbon V1, Donic Orginal Senso Carbon, Tibhar Stratus Power Wood, and Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon (or Carbon Soft).

Now I just need to look closer at the rubber choices and see which makes the most since for my backhand and which one makes the most since for my forehand. Will probably go with a rubber from the company who made the blade I go with.

Once again, I cannot thank you all enough for your patience with all my questions and all the help you've been giving. I know it will come down to a lot of trial and error, but I feel like you all are really pointing me in the perfect direction for me to start that process.

TripleB
 
Last edited:
Top