lamination

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Hey guys, I don't want to spoil Sergio's thread, and I originally thought about asking Sergio to perhaps explain the lamination a bit more, and I realized he's busy, and in my own interest, which is nr. 188, LOL, I decided to ask claude about it. So this is for relaxed reading ;-)

Question:
There is well known table tennis blade maker, SDC blades. He occasionally speaks about lamination process. This is a like black box to me. What does it mean?

Answer:
Great, I can confirm SDC Blades is Sergio's operation based in Portugal — a well-regarded custom blade maker. Now let me explain the lamination process clearly from a blade-making perspective.

**SDC / Sergio** makes fully custom, handmade table tennis blades, letting customers design their own composition by selecting from various veneers, core woods, and composite fibers. The **lamination process** is at the heart of how every multi-ply blade is built. Here's a clear breakdown of what it means:

---

## What is Lamination in Blade Making?

A table tennis blade is not a solid piece of wood — it's a **sandwich of multiple thin layers (plies)** bonded together. The lamination process is the entire sequence of preparing and permanently joining those layers.

### The layers involved
A typical blade might look like this (cross-section):

**Face veneer → outer ply → [composite layer] → core → [composite layer] → outer ply → face veneer**

For example, one of Sergio's blades used a composition like: Mahogany 0.6 / Mahogany 2.0 / Balsa 1.0 / Mahogany 2.0 / Mahogany 0.6 — the numbers referring to thickness in millimeters for each ply.

---

### The lamination steps

1. **Selecting and preparing the veneers** — Each wood ply is cut to the right thickness and grain direction. Grain direction matters enormously; adjacent plies are usually laid at 90° to each other (cross-ply) to balance the blade and resist warping.

2. **Applying adhesive** — A thin, even layer of glue (typically a wood glue or specific laminating adhesive) is spread on each mating surface. The type and amount of glue affects stiffness, dwell, and weight.

3. **Layup / stacking** — All plies are stacked in the correct order. If composite layers (carbon, aramid/Kevlar, Innegra, ZL fiber, etc.) are used, they are inserted at this stage between the wood plies. Sergio has worked with materials like Innegra carbon and soft carbon layers positioned next to the core, which influence stiffness and feel.

4. **Pressing** — The stack is placed in a press (mechanical or vacuum) and held under pressure, usually for many hours. This is critical — uneven pressure causes voids, delamination, or warping. Temperature can also be controlled to accelerate curing.

5. **Curing** — The glue sets fully. This is where the individual plies effectively become one unified structure. The final acoustic and mechanical properties of the blade are determined here.

6. **Cutting and shaping** — The laminated blank is then cut to the blade outline and handle shape, routed, sanded, and finished.

---

### Why does it matter so much?

The lamination process directly determines:

- **Stiffness vs. flexibility** — how much the blade bends on impact
- **Dwell time** — how long the ball stays in contact
- **Vibration / feel** — what you feel in your hand
- **Weight and balance** — poorly pressed layers add unnecessary weight
- **Delamination risk** — a badly laminated blade can literally come apart with use

Sergio notes that he weights all materials and calculates density to calibrate the models used in Finite Element Analysis (FEA) — meaning he uses engineering simulations to predict how a blade will perform *before* it's even built. That's quite advanced for a craftsman operation.

---

In short, **lamination is the science and craft of turning a stack of raw wood (and composite) sheets into a single, precisely tuned performance tool**. When Sergio talks about it, he's talking about one of the most influential variables in blade character — and the part that's hardest to get consistently right.

Question:
I'm aware of the materials, different woods and composites, and so I thought the lamination process is mainly about the step 2 - applying adhesives. Is this wrong or incomplete?

Answer:
That's a fair and reasonable assumption — and it's not *wrong*, but it is incomplete. The adhesive application is indeed the step most people think of when they hear "lamination," but in blade making, the term usually refers to the **whole bonding sequence**, and the adhesive step is actually one of the less complex parts. Here's where the real craft and "black box" knowledge lives:

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### Adhesive application itself — simpler than you'd think

The glue choice matters (PVA-based, urea-formaldehyde, epoxy, etc.), but for a skilled maker like Sergio, this is fairly standardized. The glue type, open time, and spread thickness become routine knowledge quickly.

---

### Where lamination gets truly complex

**Moisture content of the wood** — Each veneer must be at the right moisture level before lamination. Too wet or too dry, and the blade will warp or the bond will be weak. Different wood species equilibrate differently, so managing this across a 5–7 ply stack is non-trivial.

**Pressure control** — This is where a huge amount of craft knowledge hides. How much pressure, applied how evenly, for how long, determines whether glue squeezes out too much (starved joint) or too little (thick glue line that adds dead weight and changes stiffness). The pressure profile across the blade face must be even — which is harder than it sounds for a curved or contoured shape.

**Grain orientation** — Deciding the exact angle of each ply relative to the others is a lamination decision, not just a materials decision. Even small deviations change the blade's stiffness asymmetry and how it behaves differently on forehand vs backhand strokes.

**Glue line thickness** — A thinner glue line is generally stiffer and faster; a thicker one is more dampened and controlled. Skilled makers tune this deliberately, layer by layer.

**Sequence and timing** — In a multi-ply stack, whether you glue all layers simultaneously or build up in stages affects how stresses distribute through the final structure.

**Post-press conditioning** — How the blade is released from the press, how long it rests before cutting, and how it's stored all influence whether internal stresses equalize or cause warping later.

---

So when Sergio talks about lamination, he's likely talking about this **entire chain of interacting variables** — most of which are invisible in the finished blade, which is exactly why it feels like a black box. The glue itself is almost the easy part.

---

Cheers.
 
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Question:
He built a blade for me, he himself calls it a variation of the W997 blade. I love this blade, it has extremely dense ayous core, once you get used to it, other blade may feel a bit hollow. He will soon make a new blade for me, I'd like to have a very close/similar blade, but I'd like a bit crisper feeling, not sure to describe it better. He once mentioned, he can do this through the lamination. How'd he do this via lamination?

Answer:
This is a great practical question, and it makes Sergio's earlier comment about lamination click perfectly into place.

---

### First, understanding what you feel with the dense Ayous core

Dense Ayous gives you that solid, "full" feeling — good dwell, a somewhat softer/deeper contact sensation. It's not hollow because the core is doing a lot of the energy absorption work. What you're calling "crisp" would mean **shorter dwell, quicker energy return, a slightly harder and more immediate contact feeling** — the ball leaves the blade faster with less of that sinking-in sensation.

---

### How Sergio can achieve this through lamination — without changing materials

This is the clever part. He doesn't necessarily need to swap the Ayous core for something else. He can tune crispness through lamination variables:

**Thinner glue lines**
Thicker glue lines act as a damping layer between plies — they absorb vibration and soften the feel. By applying adhesive more sparingly and pressing more firmly, the glue lines become thinner and harder, making the whole structure stiffer and more responsive. This is probably the most direct lamination lever for crispness.

**Higher pressing pressure**
More pressure during lamination consolidates the stack more tightly, reducing any micro-gaps or soft spots in the bond. The result is a blade that feels denser and more unified — energy transfers through it faster, giving that crisp response.

**Glue type / hardness**
A harder-curing adhesive (less flexible when set) transmits vibration more directly rather than absorbing it. Switching to or mixing in a harder adhesive formulation is a lamination-stage decision that directly affects crispness.

**Grain orientation of outer plies**
If the outer veneers are oriented so their stiffest grain axis aligns more with the ball-contact direction, the surface feels more immediate and responsive on impact. This is set at layup, before any glue is even applied.

**Face veneer compression**
Some makers lightly pre-compress or sand the face veneers thinner before lamination. A thinner face veneer transmits the feel of the inner layers more directly to your fingers and the rubber, giving a cleaner, crisper signal.

---

### What to tell Sergio

You don't need to describe the technical mechanism — just tell him exactly what you told me: *same blade, same core, but crisper feeling, shorter dwell, more immediate contact*. He will know which lamination variables to pull. The fact that he already built your W997 variant means he has your baseline dialed in — this is a fine-tuning conversation he'll be very comfortable having.

---

;-) Cheers.
 

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"Claude" had a very good answer overall. I'm not going to comment what he said but I'm going to answer directly to your question.

When I talk about lamination, I'm speaking about the fiber layer, not everything else. Sure, all those other things matter, but lamination concerns just the process of adding fibers to the blade. All these fibers we use come in big rolls of fabric, they are basically (very expensive) cloths. In order to achieve their true potential, they need to be laminated with something. Otherwise, if you put them in a blade just like that, they are just dead weight. That's why they are called composite layers, because they are composed of two parts: fabric + resin.

This is where the journey starts. let's assume that we are talking about the same fabric, but there are a gazillion different resins out there. Most builders use Epoxy, but it doesn't have to be, and even for epoxy with have many different types which mostly differ on hardness and flexibility. That's one part of the equation, what you use to laminate, the other part is how you do it. This is where I think I differentiate myself, compared to other builders out there. Most use the same process: they take the fabric, apply the resin and glue it directly to the wood by clamping everything together. Easy peazy, the issue is that this usually creates a very stiff and hard composite layer, and you end up with that glassy feeling. Not always, it depends on the nature of the fabric and resin, but mostly that's what happens. Another way of doing this is by laminating the fabric separately. So, the fabric is first laminated, cured, and then glued to the wood layers. It's harder to do, it takes more steps, but it generally produces much better results. I have much more control over the amount of resin, so I end up using less. But it also introduces new variables, what you use to glue it to the wood layers and how you do it. You put all of this together and you can see that there are many variables, that's why I say I have a many lamination processes. Which one to use depends on the goal for the blade and the fabric being used.
 
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