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Ok, but there are no rubber comparable to Dignics 09C yet. Rakza Z and PK50 are good, but nowhere close. Maybe a boosted H3 National Blue Sponge?

We were talking Tenergy... Xiom Omega VII Tour: 70€, others: 58€ Andro Rasanter R53/48: 60€, R50/47...: 50€ Tibhar Evolution MX-P 50: 50€ Victas V>15 Extra: 50€ Donic Bluegrip: 50€ Joola Rhyzer: 50€ Stiga DNA: 50€ etc. Not that much cheaper and they don't even manufacture them themselves, do...

Yea, it's also 45€ shipping included in France when bought from players sealed.

It's 60€ in France then I get 10% off of that. Which rubber do you refer to as being the second most expensive?

HBD Carl !

If you have a problem with it, sure and absolutely! I mostly buy my blades used and I'm very happy with my 60€ Viscaria, my 16€ sheet of H3... and my 54€ sheet of Tenergy lol.

What if we played tennis... 😂

Very important. Other thing that comes to mind is not to lift your elbow or tense your shoulder.

I don't think you should believe everything you're told, but there is such thing as market logics as many have explained and backed up, we don't have to like it but it is a reality. It's hard for a manufacturer to function and maintain alive if they don't do things a certain way. Props to...

My club has a discount program with the main Butterfly distributor in France and I'm in charge of purchasing material and equipment for the club and members from them and also other store partners. We have -15% (more on clothing and tables) on all Butterfly blades and rubbers except Tenergy and...

People have been praising the original Septear a ton (all 7 plies are hinoki). I know the outer ply of the Septear Lead is hinoki but I wonder what the other plies are.

Depending on your level, that could be a very good setup (for high intermediate to advanced). How long have you been playing for and what blade and rubbers were you using before? Why do you want to change?

Oh yeah, I totally got what you were getting at. I was adding the exact sponge hardness of the 2 rubbers, then agreeing with you and adding more to support your point. Here's Yasaka listing the hardness of these 2 rubbers: https://www.yasakajp.com/items/shining-dragon/...

I never said it was enough... I said it was "part of it", it's the final touch really. I don't think I'd be able to generate much of anything if I was only using my wrist, especially on FH lol. I actually switched to using a Chinese rubber recently to become less of a "lazy" looper, not that I...

I'm sorry to hear about your wrist injury, I wish you a speedy recovery. I think a lot of spin can be generated on FH without use of the wrist regardless of the types of rubbers you are using, and a Chinese tacky rubber will force you to use your body more in order to generate speed and spin...

Yep! I think part of engaging that particular type of gear is a lot of wrist use on FH.

Yea Rising Dragon is 47 to 52 degrees (49.5 average) and Shining Dragon is 45 to 50 (47.5 average). Sponge hardness matters to some point but the topsheet hardness, overall feel and bouncyness are just as if not more important. Many rubbers can feel harder or softer than their sponge seems to...

You gotta do what works for you. But if you want to elevate your play with SP on FH like Falck, it is about power, not just technique. Stiffer doesn't necessarily mean less control with SP.

This is all leading us back to your original post and questions, which many people answered by recommending a stiffer blade for short pips... The blade is the base, so in the case of short pips, the best base is a stiff blade, 7-ply all-wood or a 5+2 carbon. Better to solidify your base than to...

Also the speed glue ban, speed glue made Mark V and Sriver very different rubbers than they are with water-based non-VOC glue.