Search results

Yeah. I am always surprised how people will give advice without seeing how you play. It is a bit like someone telling you what size shoe to wear without being able to see what size your feet are. If you post footage, the people who don't know what they are looking at will still give bad...

In other areas, yes. But surely, she can decide what TT rubbers she likes. Right?

You guys way overthink equipment choices. If your daugher, regardless of age, plays competently, let her choose. Let her get whatever she wants.

@Sims 1) hipnotic is a long standing TTD member and a well known and well established blade maker on this and other table tennis forums. Perhaps you should look at his work before you act out. 2) Here your comments are personal attacks. You can't do that. You can't act out like that on the...

One more detail for you. "Fishscales" wood grain pattern really just has to do with how the wood was cut. It refers to the grain patter that occurs when Koto and some other woods are QUARTER SAWN. Feel free to look that up to see what it means. There is absolutely no empirical evidence...

Go to this link to read the rules for selling where they are posted: https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/ttd-guidelines-and-rules-when-selling-and-buying-equipment.11605/ Here is the rules as posted in the link above. READ THEM.

I think you may have missed some of the quote: high levels of spin, the ball should be fizzing with spin when it hits the net; when it hits the ground it should shoot across the room faster than it was going in the air. Can you show us a serve that bounces back to the net, or even better...

And what suits the circumstances in the game. Ideally, a good player can do either if he wants to. :) I know you can. :) So, agreeing with you and adding. :)

There are several good posts. But one thing is, your post needs footage of you playing with spin on loops, on pushes, on serves. Spin isn't just for looping. At one point your serves were all flat, your pushes were all flat, your "offensive" shots all had almost no spin. Show footage that...

Yeah. If they made a video on the same subject directly about how it applies to TT, it would be interesting. If you have a lot of training that incorporates the random element and you do a decent amount of training that simulates game scenarios, then match play is not as important. However...

Sounds fair. Probably MXP would have been fine. Certainly what is coming will be fine as well. But it is worth knowing, the information about speed of setup was much more for the smaller celluloid ball eras than it is with the 40+ Poly Ball era. Most of the information that bounces around...

Watch this video a few times and see if you can sort out how it applies to Table Tennis: If only 1/3 of your practice is actual match play and your practice properly has the random element included in most or all of your training work, then you would likely perform better in matches. If...

Our minds do us a terrible disservice when we are waiting for something we just ordered and are already looking for what we should have ordered instead before even receiving and trying the thing we just ordered. Use what you ordered. Don't try anything else for at least a month. See how it...

If you ordered Hadraw 5 with MXP, use it for a while. There are so many options that you could spend your whole life and never get to the end of trying different things. If you have tried MXP and liked it, wait and see how it goes with the new setup before you start thinking about other...

Yeah. The weakness from the core being more than one piece joined at that point is possible. But then it would also need force like someone propping it between wall and floor it at an angle and stepping on it. Since it is 5 ply and not 1 ply, it kind of would have to be intended force to get...

https://mytabletennis.net/forum/double-day-valiant-loop-king-review_topic71755.html On MyTT there were a whole slew of threads about blades from Double Day Valiant around 2014-2015. If my memory serves me correctly the gist of some of those threads was that the company that makes the Double...

In my opinion, all you really need to do is take some sealant or some wood glue and apply it to the area with the chunk missing. The other ideas for what to do are all fine. What I am suggesting is, if you do nothing except making it so the stuff still there under and at the edges of the...

Although this answer does not sound serious, it is a good, solid answer. You don't hit with that part of the blade. Even if you did nothing, it would still be fine. It is worth knowing, that, in some sense, howling at the moon may be the most important answer. :)

I would take something like a clamp or pliers and press the wood that is bulging, back into its original shape (top ply flat) and then put wood glue on the edge and wherever else you thinks it needs it to keep that part glued to the rest of the blade. You could apply the glue first and then...

Any thoughts on those processes of aging the wood, heat treating the wood and what they might actually so. Or do you thing things like that are simply marketing and they are using a ply combination that would have a crisp feeling regardless of whether they actually do those kinds of treatments?