Glue quantity in ml per rubber

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Hi,

How many milliliters are required to glue a rubber? I am planning to buy Donic Glue Vario Clean 90ml.

Regards

Stefano
Each layer is about 1.5-2ml, but that probably depends somewhat on the glue as well. If you do 2 layers on the rubber and 1 on the blade that comes out to be about 5-6ml as you need to consider the glue soaked up by whatever you use to spread the glue (e.g. a sponge).

I used to try to go for precision by using a 5ml syringe, and I'd use roughly a full syringe per rubber.
 
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It really depends on glue viscosity and rubber type. Usually softer, more porous rubbers absorb glue more easily so they tend to need a bit more glue than a less porous rubber.

On the rubber, just put a bit less than you think you need, and if it's not enough then add some.

On the blade add a bit more because it dries very quick, and adding new liquid glue on dry glue is a pain.

Generally rubbers take more glue, but you can't remove old one easily, yet you can work on them more freely because it doesn't dry too fast.

Blades need less glue because the wood doesn't absorb it like a rubber, but if you don't add enough then it'll dry before you have a chance to add more. So put more in advance and take the rest off by wiping off with the sponge to a piece of paper.
 
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It really depends on glue viscosity and rubber type. Usually softer, more porous rubbers absorb glue more easily so they tend to need a bit more glue than a less porous rubber.

On the rubber, just put a bit less than you think you need, and if it's not enough then add some.

On the blade add a bit more because it dries very quick, and adding new liquid glue on dry glue is a pain.

Generally rubbers take more glue, but you can't remove old one easily, yet you can work on them more freely because it doesn't dry too fast.

Blades need less glue because the wood doesn't absorb it like a rubber, but if you don't add enough then it'll dry before you have a chance to add more. So put more in advance and take the rest off by wiping off with the sponge to a piece of paper.
Yes, good points. I should note that my measurements were on a sealed blade which doesn't absorb much glue. I've since stopped using the syringes (it's a mess, and difficult for the short syringes to get glue out of the bottle) and switched to the Viscaria, which doesn't require sealing. The Viscaria's unsealed outer absorbs a LOT more glue and dries VERY quickly, I'd guess at least 1 extra ml of glue for the blade face.
 
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Yes, good points. I should note that my measurements were on a sealed blade which doesn't absorb much glue. I've since stopped using the syringes (it's a mess, and difficult for the short syringes to get glue out of the bottle) and switched to the Viscaria, which doesn't require sealing. The Viscaria's unsealed outer absorbs a LOT more glue and dries VERY quickly, I'd guess at least 1 extra ml of glue for the blade face.
I have Viscaria too, it's stupid how quickly it dries on that thing.
 
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@Jan_ Seal that bluddy thing!!! (if the wood is ok to be sealed, 1-2 types are not ok with this, ask the seller)

It is not good for the wood so much humidity from glues, especially for someone that change and re-change rubbers too often.

Then the only one layer of glue on the blade needs more time than the 2nd hand of glue on the rubber, and also requires about 2/3 of the glue than one layer on rubber.
 
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I use up around 2ml per rubber (1 layer on blade, 2 on rubber) using cheap huesion water based glue.

only problem i had was on a heavily sealed blade where the glue won't stick.
With a very fine sand paper (no 400, 600 or 800) pass the head of the blade 5-6 times horizontally and vertically, remove the dust that was created by blowing some air and with a damp (barely wet) microfiber cloth. The blade will still be sealed (all micro-pores of the wood) but the surface will be ready for the glue and not smooth as "glass".
 
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@Jan_ Seal that bluddy thing!!! (if the wood is ok to be sealed, 1-2 types are not ok with this, ask the seller)

It is not good for the wood so much humidity from glues, especially for someone that change and re-change rubbers too often.

Then the only one layer of glue on the blade needs more time than the 2nd hand of glue on the rubber, and also requires about 2/3 of the glue than one layer on rubber.

I only like the andro free seal that a friend has on his tb spirit. Many others change the feeling and I like a blade with top feeling. And I haven't found anything better.

My hands sweat a lot so everything lacquered slips, with the exception of the andro because it's thin, which also helps with maintaining the feeling.

But I'm too bored to get it done. The blade will last about 10 years of continuous use, then I'll change it. But I change blades every one to two years because I like to try out things. I don't care much about keeping the same equipment.
 
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With a very fine sand paper (no 400, 600 or 800) pass the head of the blade 5-6 times horizontally and vertically, remove the dust that was created by blowing some air and with a damp (barely wet) microfiber cloth. The blade will still be sealed (all micro-pores of the wood) but the surface will be ready for the glue and not smooth as "glass".
yea that was what I did to make it stick. i really had to sand it it down though since the previous owner weny ham on the sealer.
 
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