New Equipment choice feedback

[coolchap]

Any suggestion on comments on this setup, or do I need to have different set of rubber for better spin?

For the DONIC Anders Lind Hexa Carbon forehand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc G-1 and Backhand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc C-1

 

[Tyce]

Excellent combination. Any lack of spin, speed or control is due to technique

 

[coolchap]

Thanks @Tyce , the reason why I asked , I have been reading quite a lot of reviews and feedback about different blades and rubbers. I read that it is better to have a Tacky or Hybrid rubber like (Tibhar Hybrid K3 or Yasaka Rakza Z Extra Hard) on the forehand to have better spin in the loops and that made me second guess FastArc G1 on my forehand. Seems like some time reading about too much of reviews can play games with the mind.

 

[greenbeanmachine]

Setup is good -- you can't go wrong with a professional-grade bat and rubbers. G-1 is generally regarded as one of the best rubbers around, and C-1 is fairly similar.

However, the setup is very different from what you have now. Your current blade is very slow and flexible, with slow spinny rubbers. The setup you are proposing is extremely fast. You will likely have a hard time adjusting to the new racket, and because you changed every possible feature it will be hard to determine what features of the racket are causing the change in feeling.

Take it from me, a seasoned equipment junkie: never change the blade and the rubbers at the same time. This is a recipe for getting confused and frustrated. Either change the blade and keep the rubber the same, or change the rubber and keep the blade. That way, you can evaluate the change with only a single variable, and determine whether or not you like that change.

It seems like you are hoping to play a faster game, judging by the racket you have suggested. If I were you, I would stay with your current rubbers and change the blade to the Anders Lind blade. This should definitely be fast enough -- Hurricane 3 can play quite fast when you add enough power, and the Anders Lind blade is extremely powerful. Once you have adjusted to this new setup, if it still doesn't feel fast enough, then you can try changing the rubbers.

I read that it is better to have a Tacky or Hybrid rubber like (Tibhar Hybrid K3 or Yasaka Rakza Z Extra Hard) on the forehand to have better spin in the loops

This is true if you want to generate super-spinny loops, yes. This is not to say you can't generate heavy spin with G-1, though -- G-1 is still a good forehand rubber. My main concern about G-1 would be that you're not used to it -- you will have to re-learn how to hit. Having a blade you are not used to will only make this adjustment more difficult. G-1 is also much bouncier than H3, so you will probably have trouble controlling it.

Is there a reason you want to switch from Hurricane 3? It's generally accepted as the best forehand rubber available, and suits players at many different levels. I'd stick with it if I were you.

 

[coolchap]

@greenbeanmachine , Thanks for detailed feedback. Just to provide more context to the story, the only reason I am changing the rubbers from Hurricane 3 to G1 is the speed as my Yasaka Sweden Extra with H3 was not giving me that power. I also realized may be my rubbers has worn out and that led me to the road of getting a new blade and reading several articles and reviews.

Even I removed the rubbers from YSE and just currently playing with my other premade paddle for the time being and looking for the next paddle. After debating a lot between Butterfly Innerforce ALC/ Outer carbon and so many different option, I thought to try the "Anders Lind Hexa Carbon" as even my current blade is bit chipped and even I thought about putting back some new rubber but I thought to invest in a quality blade and rubber at the go. Thus it led to all the exploration and narrow it down to the "DONIC Anders Lind Hexa Carbon forehand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc G-1 and Backhand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc C-1" this setup.

But I want to change my backhand for sure as Mark V may not be rubber for with the 40+ balls per all the reviews and thus got to the choices of a softer rubber than G1 thus going for the C1.

 

[Tyce]

YSE and H3 is a slow combo, yes. Generating serious power with it is surely hard, but not impossible. In the meantime it's extremely safe in short game and getting spin on a ball should be plenty easy, too.

Your proposed combo is a different path, not better or worse but different. The rubber will bounce more which is going to be an adjustment in the short game. Getting fast balls out of it should be easy, getting spin on the ball requires a bit of a different approach but it's all good.

One thing you can consider is if you can get coaching, what material are they used to teach?


Hurricane 3 on Anders Lind is going to be easier than on YSE
G1 on YSE is going to be easier than on Anders Lind
Replacing the Mark V makes sense either way. C1 is easy to manage once you get used to the bounce, and it should work fine on both.

 

[coolchap]

@Tyce On another notes, is there any cheap rubbers that I can place on my YSE as currently there are no rubbers and I can keep it as spare blade apart from Anders Lind setup?

I want to ensure that I have 2 blades ready for me one my main blade and one spare. I have not played for long and stamina is down but once it is back for longer session, I am planning to play in different tournaments surely at very low 1000-1200 levels.

 

[sawbz]

@greenbeanmachine , Thanks for detailed feedback. Just to provide more context to the story, the only reason I am changing the rubbers from Hurricane 3 to G1 is the speed as my Yasaka Sweden Extra with H3 was not giving me that power. I also realized may be my rubbers has worn out and that led me to the road of getting a new blade and reading several articles and reviews.

Even I removed the rubbers from YSE and just currently playing with my other premade paddle for the time being and looking for the next paddle. After debating a lot between Butterfly Innerforce ALC/ Outer carbon and so many different option, I thought to try the "Anders Lind Hexa Carbon" as even my current blade is bit chipped and even I thought about putting back some new rubber but I thought to invest in a quality blade and rubber at the go. Thus it led to all the exploration and narrow it down to the "DONIC Anders Lind Hexa Carbon forehand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc G-1 and Backhand rubber will be Nittaku Fastarc C-1" this setup.

But I want to change my backhand for sure as Mark V may not be rubber for with the 40+ balls per all the reviews and thus got to the choices of a softer rubber than G1 thus going for the C1.

yo greenbean right u switching to a faster blade better just play with the old rubbers for 2 weeks or so. u can't go wrong with g1 and c1, although at your level i would have gotten p1 for fh and g1 for bh (i just find g1's grip a bit too much on fh when i wanna play a ripping drive). and better to try out outer and innerforce blades before just going for it, u might like innerforce more than alc or vice versa they both are pretty different in terms of feel and characteristics.
and that chip ain't nothing that blade can be used for centuries😭

 

[greenbeanmachine]

Thanks for detailed feedback. Just to provide more context to the story, the only reason I am changing the rubbers from Hurricane 3 to G1 is the speed as my Yasaka Sweden Extra with H3 was not giving me that power. I also realized may be my rubbers has worn out and that led me to the road of getting a new blade and reading several articles and reviews.

Ah, gotcha. Sweden Extra is a very slow blade, so I think just switching to Anders Lind blade will give you more than enough power. Even switching to a fast all-wood blade (like Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive) with Hurricane 3 would give you significantly more power.

But I want to change my backhand for sure as Mark V may not be rubber for with the 40+ balls per all the reviews and thus got to the choices of a softer rubber than G1 thus going for the C1.

Yeah that's fair. Mark V is not a bad rubber -- you can play with it up until a level of 1700 or so, but after that it will be a hinderance. The control is extremely good. If you want a modernized version of Mark V, go for Yasaka Rakza 7 (especially for the sake of not changing the rubber too much). If it feels too fast, go back to Mark V until you adjust to the blade.

If you feel like you have a powerful backhand, you could even try Hurricane 3 or Rakza Z on the backhand. Otherwise, if you want something with good power and control it's really hard to beat Rakza 7.

is there any cheap rubbers that I can place on my YSE

Loki Rxton rubbers are probably the best value you will get for a cheap price. Rxton 3 is quite good and you can get it for $10. Plus it comes in blue and pink if you like cool colors.

I am planning to play in different tournaments surely at very low 1000-1200 levels.

If this is your level, you might want to avoid carbon for a while. There are fast wood blades like Ma Lin Extra Offensive, and they have much better feeling than carbon blades, which will help you develop faster. Carbon is fast, but it dulls the vibration of the blade and doesn't give you as much feedback as all-wood.

As a side note, Ma Lin Extra Offensive pairs excellently with Hurricane 3 -- the power and control are both extremely good. See: https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/good-fh-rubbers-for-yeo.37140/

and better to try out outer and innerforce blades before just going for it, u might like innerforce more than alc or vice versa they both are pretty different in terms of feel and characteristics.

Yeah you might try to find clubmates who have inner & outer carbon blades and ask them if you can try their setup. It'll save you time and money for sure. I'd avoid buying a carbon blade until you're like 1500 though.

 

[coolchap]

@sawbz , I wish I could have had the option of trying both inner and outer before committing to either one of them. Since I don't have that option I am just inclined towards the inner and afraid that Outer will be too fast for me to control. Who knows I might have liked the fast blade with a controller rubber that could have been great combination for me. Honestly a bit confused . I don't mind investing in a good blade and rubber but not sure if I want to buy both inner and outer carbon at the same time and try them.

 

[sawbz]

@sawbz , I wish I could have had the option of trying both inner and outer before committing to either one of them. Since I don't have that option I am just inclined towards the inner and afraid that Outer will be too fast for me to control. Who knows I might have liked the fast blade with a controller rubber that could have been great combination for me. Honestly a bit confused . I don't mind investing in a good blade and rubber but not sure if I want to buy both inner and outer carbon at the same time and try them.

where do u play no other players there having different blades?

 

[coolchap]

I am currently playing with my work colleagues but they don't have those kinda blades. I did try Viscaria once but that was only 10-15 mins was not enough time to me to judge that whether I can modulate myself to it or not.

 

[jk1980]

dont get carried away by reading reviews of rubbers that are 5 degrees harder than what you are using right now. You will be way worse with them and if you add a fast blade, you will probably not even be able to generate spin with them, because the ball will leave the bat much faster than you are used to.

 

[Tyce]

This.

A fast blade, and I mean fast in the sense that the ball shoots out of it quickly, requires accurate timing to produce spin. Anyone can learn to play a drive with a Viscaria, learning to play a spinny loop with it is significantly harder than with a blade that has more dwell.

On the other hand, having a blade that is very sensitive to what you do, will give you precise control of the ball once you do master it.

In fact, I'm in the process of moving from my Korbel to a Yinhe Pro 01 (which is similar to a Viscaria). For that purpose I have both in my bag, with the same rubbers on both. That way I can understand the difference between these blades a little bit better.
What I'm saying, it might be a better idea to have similar rubbers on both blades.

But if I'm honest, put the G1 and C1 on the YSE and you'll have a good step forward

 

[coolchap]

Thanks @Tyce, @greenbeanmachine, @sawbz and @jk1980

 

[coolchap]

I got chance to record my game eventually this week

Just to add "
As I said earlier once that I will recording my session and posting it soon.
I am playing with one of my friend. We are always serving each other from right hand side cross court as we are preparing to serve during our doubles match coming up.
My default setup of my blade is in profile but from last few weeks since I am in search of next blade setup and I already removed the my rubber from my blade, I am playing with a premade paddle for the time being.
I am looking forward to your comments what mistakes and flaws I have in my game and what can I do to improve them? Do you see any strengths in my game.
Looking forward to hear more from everyone
"

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/table-tennis-match-footage-%E2%80%93-open-to-all-comments-analysis.37444/#post-528172

 

[pong99]

@Tyce On another notes, is there any cheap rubbers that I can place on my YSE as currently there are no rubbers and I can keep it as spare blade apart from Anders Lind setup?

I want to ensure that I have 2 blades ready for me one my main blade and one spare. I have not played for long and stamina is down but once it is back for longer session, I am planning to play in different tournaments surely at very low 1000-1200 levels.

go to colestt.com, email cole and he can recommend some cheap rubbers that will be just fine, most likely these will be more than enough to get better with

 

[chinacurious]

I have not watched the whole video but from what I've seen it does't look like your technique is stable enough to benefit from such an advanced setup like Anders Lind and Fastarc.
I would recommend to keep the YSE and put some moderate rubbers on it and maybe get a coaching lesson or two instead of a new blade.

 

[TimoGnoll]

I used to own Yasaka Sweden Extra and even played with Xiom Vega Euro on backhand. It was great combo for developing BH technique. For beginners who don't play far from table I have to say the rubber gives great feedback and good blade feeling. Works only up to mid distance, talking about max sponge thickness. If it is thinner than MAX, you cut the range of effectiveness imo.
Back to blade:
Yasaka Sweden Extra was good for beginners, but I felt like I had to correct the ball angle every hit. It was very flexy in that regard and paired with soft rubbers with elastic topsheet I had to close my racket really hard, it was really unintuitive and hard to do aswell. Many times balls would fly of to the side or I hit the edge when I was trying to adjust for incoming topspin. It was rather bouncy in touch game aswell.
Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon has same blade composition as Sweden Extra, but sports carbon as a 3rd layer, which fixes issue of 2 much flex. 7 plies are also stiffer than 5. It is a bit quicker blade, but not by much. It doesn't add a lot of power when you hit hard. It still retains great control, better than Sweden Extra imo, even though it is Carbon blade.
Donic Lind is faster and hits harder, but in touch game and slow shots it is not a rocket and still retains very good control, blocking, lobbing and chopping is very easy to put back on the table. I personally think it is very beginner friendly and you can't hurt yourself with that blade. Has better feeling compared to 2 blades I mentioned above.