What sealant do you use?

says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
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A friend uses the andro free seal on his Timo boll spirit and I liked how it felt, it didn't harden the blade at all. And now that I glued on some new rubbers for him, I found that the surface is maintained really well, his old rubbers came off easily, but not to the point where they hadn't stuck, and the new rubbers stuck on well.

At the same time an old timer I know uses varnish for fences... And as you can probably guess his blades are all hard as rocks.

I found a guy that sells donic sealant, the donic seal formula. Is it as good as andro's?
 
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Old guy here- I use a very thin coat of varnish also, same as I did when I was a youngster. I honestly cant tell that it makes any difference in playing feel. But I do prefer a stiffer blade.

For me, it seems that the makeup + age of the sponge, then which glue is used have more effect on the ease of swapping rubbers.
 
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says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
says Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
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May 2020
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Read 1 reviews
Old guy here- I use a very thin coat of varnish also, same as I did when I was a youngster. I honestly cant tell that it makes any difference in playing feel. But I do prefer a stiffer blade.

For me, it seems that the makeup + age of the sponge, then which glue is used have more effect on the ease of swapping rubbers.
True, it's just that a thicker sealent will make rubbers not stick easily, I just didn't see that happening with the one from andro.
 
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True, it's just that a thicker sealent will make rubbers not stick easily, I just didn't see that happening with the one from andro.
problem with rubbers not sticking - get sand paper and rough up the area, to allow pores.
pores will allow glue to go in and provide a better bond
 
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If you are nervous about using polyurethane or varnish you can get water based sanding sealer.
 
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says former JPEN, now CPEN
says former JPEN, now CPEN
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dhs protective coating, i used it on my Yasaka Atletico Spin which has a koto outer but since the worksmanship is very rough for a yasaka blade (ig its poor bc its for the china market) ive had small splinters coming out when i reglued my rubber

2 thin layers, sanding in between and after the 2nd layer

i think its alright, theres not really any noticeable difference when i use it with and without sealant
 
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So this is the general order of sealants from least likely to affect how the racket plays to most likely:
1. Hairspray (yes, players used to use this back in the speed glue era).
2. Water based sanding sealer, available but not common, probably have to go to someplace like Woodcraft in the US.
3. Wipe-on polyurethane or other wipe-on oil based finishes. They have been thinned at least 50% over the non wipe-on versions.
4. Regular polyurethane, shellac, lacquer, etc.
As to their ability to prevent splintering, just reverse this list. The more it will prevent splintering, the more likely it will change the way the racket feels by making the surface harder.
 
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