New Innerforce ALC Type Blade

[TheProfessor]

I'm currently experimenting with a new composition.
Already got my first prototype still working out the desired thickness as I'm not yet satisfied with some of the unwanted vibrations.
But it's basically an Ash outerply wood with innerlayer alc.

I'm fine with the composition and I know what direction I want to take in terms of some modifications/changes to the blade's thicknesses etc.

My question is what rubbers should I attach for testing purposes. Definitely I need to use H3 on the fh side but how about for the bh side?



Note:
Unfortunately I don't have a macro lens and couldn't get a clear shot of the composition.
Will upload more pics next time.

 

[ZFT]

As it’s an experiment with a custom product, no one apart from you would have any idea how it would play.

Maybe start with a certain hardness and work your way up or down? Much like how companies range their rubbers? S, M, H, XH?

And report back to us

FYI - Nittaku uses White Ash in Violin and Violin Carbon - there will be users reporting what rubbers work well with these blades.

 

[TheProfessor]

As it’s an experiment with a custom product, no one apart from you would have any idea how it would play.

Maybe start with a certain hardness and work your way up or down? Much like how companies range their rubbers? S, M, H, XH?

And report back to us

FYI - Nittaku uses White Ash in Violin and Violin Carbon - there will be users reporting what rubbers work well with these blades.

Thanks. Wonder if anyone has rubber suggestions for Violin Carbon Inner.

 

[OldUser]

It's a block machine you've got here, ash is very direct and snappy, that's why slappers use it for the bodies of their jazz basses (the 70's Fender Jazz). Yours is the european one (clear near white color is typical for euro ash) so it will be even more direct. It will work well with medium hard short pips, and with 47/48 and above hardness rubbers. problem is it's not that elastic, so it's not recommended for a long distance away from the table style of playing. The other cons with euro ash is that it's heavy compared to the american one, specially the swamp ash that is way lighter. So for looping it may be a little exhausting, hence the blocking game.

 

[TheProfessor]

It's a block machine you've got here, ash is very direct and snappy, that's why slappers use it for the bodies of their jazz basses (the 70's Fender Jazz). Yours is the european one (clear near white color is typical for euro ash) so it will be even more direct. It will work well with medium hard short pips, and with 47/48 and above hardness rubbers. problem is it's not that elastic, so it's not recommended for a long distance away from the table style of playing. The other cons with euro ash is that it's heavy compared to the american one, specially the swamp ash that is way lighter. So for looping it may be a little exhausting, hence the blocking game.

Won't the alc help for long distance counterlooping?

 

[KM1976]

Use the same set of rubbers which you are using on your main paddle. That will reduce the number of variables and will give you the exact difference in feel (i.e. soft vs. hard), ball grab/bite, catapult, throw angle i.e. high vs. low. If you add any new rubber which you haven't tried before then how will you know if it is the wood or the rubber which is causing a difference?

 

[TheProfessor]

Use the same set of rubbers which you are using on your main paddle. That will reduce the number of variables and will give you the exact difference in feel (i.e. soft vs. hard), ball grab/bite, catapult, throw angle i.e. high vs. low. If you add any new rubber which you haven't tried before then how will you know if it is the wood or the rubber which is causing a difference?

I'll use my Loki W01 (which is basically a Viscaria-esque blade) for like a week or 2, then move the rubbers from there to this prototype. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[OldUser]

Won't the alc help for long distance counterlooping?

The problem is actually adding carbon composite material to an outer already stiff and hard kind of wood: flexibility always helps for long distance playing, that's why most of the hard wood blades like some Stiga or Andro ones with ebony or rosewood do not have carbon composite.