Please help me choose non-chinese rubber for beginners!

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can you give me tips to master h3? cus my coach use european rubber
H3 is not harder to control. It is slower and has a lower trajectory than most ESN rubbers. This means hit harder and with a little more open racket. It is better to brush more and engage the sponge less. As the tackiness dissappears close the racket angle little by little and try to engage the sponge more and more.

Or change rubber to something like Mark V, Neottec katana, Neotyec Hinoki M or similar…

Cheers
L-zr
 
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H3 is not harder to control. It is slower and has a lower trajectory than most ESN rubbers. This means hit harder and with a little more open racket. It is better to brush more and engage the sponge less. As the tackiness dissappears close the racket angle little by little and try to engage the sponge more and more.

Or change rubber to something like Mark V, Neottec katana, Neotyec Hinoki M or similar…

Cheers
L-zr
H3 is not harder to control. It is slower and has a lower trajectory than most ESN rubbers. This means hit harder and with a little more open racket. It is better to brush more and engage the sponge less. As the tackiness dissappears close the racket angle little by little and try to engage the sponge more and more.

Or change rubber to something like Mark V, Neottec katana, Neotyec Hinoki M or similar…

Cheers
L-zr
H3 is not harder to control. It is slower and has a lower trajectory than most ESN rubbers. This means hit harder and with a little more open racket. It is better to brush more and engage the sponge less. As the tackiness dissappears close the racket angle little by little and try to engage the sponge more and more.

Or change rubber to something like Mark V, Neottec katana, Neotyec Hinoki M or similar…

Cheers
L-zr
Yes, I know that H3 is slower than ESN rubber, but the amount of power needed to hit a shot with ESN rubber is different. ESN rubber requires less technique and power, while H3 rubber relies more on technique. Thank you for the recommendation; I'll look into it.
 
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When you are learning, you need equipment that will accommodate a large margin of error.

Beginners have bad control, because they have bad technique. They don't know how to swing properly, or how hard to swing.

To accommodate these factors, and learn how to feel the stroke, and how to create dwell time with your drives, you need that larger margin of error, so that you can start to identify the right feeling when you contact the ball..

A large margin of error, means having slow rubbers, that can still spin the ball. Faster rubbers reduce the impetus to swing properly. They also add their own speed to each stroke, which means that not all the speed you are adding to the shot is your own. This also shrinks the margin for error you have when trying to hit the table.

In my personal opinion, (except for maybe the DHS H3) none of the rubbers that have been recommended thus far, are sufficiently slow enough to allow your strokes to develop properly.

For the next six to 12 months (no more, no less), I would recommend you use rubbers that offer high control, low speed, and adequate spin to guide the trajectory of the ball. These rubbers include classics like the 729 Super FX, or the Mark V in 2.0mm sponge. Loki also do a good quality, very affordable non-tacky rubber in the Kirin 1 and Kirin 3, which are extremely controllable, and are still capable of generating spin if your technique is good (The 729 Focus 3 is another possible option).

None of these rubbers however will generate a lot of spin or speed for you. In order to be competitive with these rubbers, you will need to work hard on creating spin and speed, and developing techniques that will maximise both these qualities in your stroke play... which frankly is the whole idea.

Good luck with it, and welcome to the boards 🙂
 
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When you are learning, you need equipment that will accommodate a large margin of error.

Beginners have bad control, because they have bad technique. They don't know how to swing properly, or how hard to swing.

To accommodate these factors, and learn how to feel the stroke, and how to create dwell time with your drives, you need that larger margin of error, so that you can start to identify the right feeling when you contact the ball..

A large margin of error, means having slow rubbers, that can still spin the ball. Faster rubbers reduce the impetus to swing properly. They also add their own speed to each stroke, which means that not all the speed you are adding to the shot is your own. This also shrinks the margin for error you have when trying to hit the table.

In my personal opinion, (except for maybe the DHS H3) none of the rubbers that have been recommended thus far, are sufficiently slow enough to allow your strokes to develop properly.

For the next six to 12 months (no more, no less), I would recommend you use rubbers that offer high control, low speed, and adequate spin to guide the trajectory of the ball. These rubbers include classics like the 729 Super FX, or the Mark V in 2.0mm sponge. Loki also do a good quality, very affordable non-tacky rubber in the Kirin 1 and Kirin 3, which are extremely controllable, and are still capable of generating spin if your technique is good (The 729 Focus 3 is another possible option).

None of these rubbers however will generate a lot of spin or speed for you. In order to be competitive with these rubbers, you will need to work hard on creating spin and speed, and developing techniques that will maximise both these qualities in your stroke play... which frankly is the whole idea.

Good luck with it, and welcome to the boards 🙂
I looked down on Mark V, too slow, rubber made for ol'gramps.

That was until I tried Butterfly Flextra ( Butterfly's version of Mark V ) because some members here says I need to slow down my set-up to improve.

And so I did. Now I am happy with it. No tension, no catapulty effect to mess with my technique. The ball comes out just in accordance to the effort I put in the stroke, nothing more, nothing less. Another word, I am in control!

I learned to spin, not by design but by necessity to pressure my opponent so that I can get an easy ball for my FH smash kill.

So there you have it folks! Even a flat-hitter / smasher need spin for the magic to happen.
 
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I looked down on Mark V, too slow, rubber made for ol'gramps.

That was until I tried Butterfly Flextra ( Butterfly's version of Mark V ) because some members here says I need to slow down my set-up to improve.

And so I did. Now I am happy with it. No tension, no catapulty effect to mess with my technique. The ball comes out just in accordance to the effort I put in the stroke, nothing more, nothing less. Another word, I am in control!

I learned to spin, not by design but by necessity to pressure my opponent so that I can get an easy ball for my FH smash kill.

So there you have it folks! Even a flat-hitter / smasher need spin for the magic to happen.
Thanks for that Gozo, and yeah -- you're exactly right.

Gozo's comments illustrate the underlying principle here very well -- tensor sponge is meant to augment your technique, not enable it.

While everybody is different, in my experience at least, most beginners who pick up fast tensor rubbers too soon, end up modifying their stroke to try and accommodate or compensate for the rubber's extra speed.

This usually manifests as slower arm movement, weaker strokes, less weight transfer on FH strokes, or worst of all -- trying to either stop or slow down their arm's movement near the point of impact, or otherwise halt, stifle or even pull back a bit on their natural follow through. This utterly destroys ball control as they're not creating dwell time at contact, or guiding the ball to its target in the follow through.

With attacking FH play for example, you must learn to:

- accelerate towards the contact point,
- hold the ball on the rubber during contact,
- add power via twisting your torso and proper weight transfer, and
- guide the direction and trajectory of the ball with the follow through...

...all on your own, without any help from the rubber.

Once you have mastered these skills and can maintain consistent control throughout the stroke, that's when you can add extra venom into the mix via using faster rubbers.

Switching to fast rubbers too soon only interferes with learning the above feelings, and implementing all these sensations with your entire body, as a natural part of your game.

Hope this all helps, and please keep sticking with it. You're only two months into learning what might eventually become a life-long passion for you (it certainly did for me 🙂) ...but these are arguably also the most important months of all in your table tennis journey.

You have plenty of time - be patient with it.

Good luck! 🙂👍
 
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