HAIFU SEAMOON BOOSTER NATIONAL Y/B REVIEWS

[harty]

Have you done the spectroscopy yourself or do you have a source of that information?

University of Chemical Technology in Pardubice, Czech Republic.

 

[harty]

The last two, Haifu Yellow and Seamon, show absolute identical absorption curves. If - as you say - the only difference between those two is the yellow dye in the Haifu Yellow, then the absorption curve for Haifu Yellow absolutely must be different.

As both curves are the same, something stinks ...

I am not a chemist, here is the message translated from Czech to English:
Hello,

I am sending the promised booster results from IR spectroscopy, and we subsequently performed Raman spectroscopy as well.

The results clearly document that both types of booster are identical in their main composition, differing at most in additives (e.g., pigments).

The problem, however, is that the results do not quite correspond to the given MSDS. Natural modified rubber (with a low content of double bonds) is possible there, but amine groups from ethylenediamine are quite evidently missing. According to the results of both spectroscopies, it looks like some longer hydrocarbon (penta- to heptadecane). We are unable to get more from these measurements.

 

[kaisama]

For having tried both, I like the national yellow a lot more. The rubber's feeling and crispiness are better than with the regular yellow!

I'm attaching a picture of the effect of the boosting, the national yellow curls the rubber a lot more than the regular yellow. It looks like an eggroll ! I never had this result with the normal yellow.

Also, 2 layers of the National is enough compared to 3 layers of the regular yellow.

 

[Conehead]

How long does it take to unroll?

 

[kaisama]

The funny thing is, it pretty much stayed like that even after drying for 12 hours! When I installed it, it was still very curly!

 

[Conehead]

Maybe two full days would have done the job.

 

[kaisama]

I'm no expert but from my research. The Chinese posts and videos I've seen advise against waiting for the rubber to fully "uncurve" before installing it, I don't remember why.

 

[longle]

I'm no expert but from my research. The Chinese posts and videos I've seen advise against waiting for the rubber to fully "uncurve" before installing it, I don't remember why.

I don't understand this part either, if I wait till the rubber to be flat before gluing, isn't that against the purpose of the boosting ?

 

[igorponger]

EXPERT TALKS.
The Friction Tests to come soon. ...

🔴 There is serious concern inside ITTF about abundance of the low friction materials in competitive sport all around.
No secret that the most of the long pimps rubbers are being purposely designed to enable the "spin reversal" trickery.
Again, Сhina got now concerned about the many threats coming from the low-friction tricksters like Indian woman team., etc. So China is now holding up an idea of deploying instant Friction Test in large, for major international tournaments foremost.

China does insist that
-- No one is admitted to play a competition otherwise than through friction test.

抖音搜索

so.douyin.com

https://so.douyin.com/s?enter_method=web_search&in_ogs=40&in_tfs=OS&keyword=%E4%B9%92%E4%B9%93%E7%90%83%E9%A2%97%E7%B2%92%E6%A3%80%E6%B5%8B%E4%BB%AA

 

[Conehead]

I don't understand this part either, if I wait till the rubber to be flat before gluing, isn't that against the purpose of the boosting ?

Even after a couple of days the rubber would not fully uncurl. Waiting a bit more than 12 hrs would make the gluing job just a bit easier.

 

[Egon]

I am not a chemist, here is the message translated from Czech to English:
Hello,

I am sending the promised booster results from IR spectroscopy, and we subsequently performed Raman spectroscopy as well.

The results clearly document that both types of booster are identical in their main composition, differing at most in additives (e.g., pigments).

The problem, however, is that the results do not quite correspond to the given MSDS. Natural modified rubber (with a low content of double bonds) is possible there, but amine groups from ethylenediamine are quite evidently missing. According to the results of both spectroscopies, it looks like some longer hydrocarbon (penta- to heptadecane). We are unable to get more from these measurements.

Hello! I am very interested in how toxic is seamun. The fact is that even a small drop of booster that accidentally gets on my finger causes discomfort and numbness even if I immediately wipe everything off and wash this place. Maybe I have an allergic reaction or is this a very dangerous substance?

 

[Egon]

I am not a chemist, but judging by this article, it is a very dangerous substance. Particularly interesting are paragraphs 11 and 12. I have come to the conclusion that I should completely abandon the booster Seamun and similar ones.

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[Conehead]

Does anyone know the chemical composition of the Seamon booster?

 

[Egon]

Anyone play around with homemade boosters? I've found a combination of Ultra-pure lamp oil (paraffin oil), Goo Gone and Coconut oil work well.

I mix depending on the desired immediate boosting effect... Meaning Lamp oil has most immediate effect but dissipates quickly. Goo Gone is second in this regard and the coconut oil gives a lasting effect to the boost, sort of like a booster additive. Its thin so I usually boost over glue.

I've also found that doming/curling a rubber too much can make the top sheet too hard, so I try not to "over boost"... Especially with a new rubber. Also boosting after an initial break in of rubber seems to give the best boosting results.

Before the advent of seamon, I used Vaseline oil and Johnson's Baby oil. These oils work, but the problem is that to get the effect similar to one layer of seamon, you need a lot of oil, which makes the rubber heavier. I also like a mixture of Vaseline oil and some citrus - orange, tangerine, lemon - applied to the topsheet of old rubber. This can slightly extend the life of old rubber. For example, the old lady Vega Pro reacts very well.

 

[harty]

I am not a chemist, but judging by this article, it is a very dangerous substance. Particularly interesting are paragraphs 11 and 12. I have come to the conclusion that I should completely abandon the booster Seamun and similar ones.

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I don't trust Chinese MSDS.
Seamoon has four hazard pictograms according to their MSDS.
DHL classified Seamoon as a dangerous good for air transport, explosive and flammable.
Once the MSDS listed ethylenediamine as the solvent, the second time oleic acid...
The MSDS always listed 60% rubber and 40% solvent.
According to ITTF rules, the oil content of the total rubber weight cannot exceed 10%.
So much for a side note, I'm not a chemist either, but we did the work and paid for the analysis to find out the true state of the Chinese booster.

 

[kaisama]

It is interesting to know what are these boosters made of. Some people use their fingers to spread the booster, it doesn't do anything to me physically immediately. Not sure if it's really toxic, it's just some type of oil that goes away easily with soap. I'm having a much more difficult time removing bleach from my hands when I accidentally touch it.

 

[Conehead]

Some people use their fingers to spread the booster

That definitely is a bad idea.

 

[chiefvevo]

Does anyone know if national black oil supposed to be this slimey? I had nat yellow and it was just thick oil like, but I got this bottle of supposed to be black and its a little too gooey? Or is it normal for black

 

[Machi]

View attachment 35084
Does anyone know if national black oil supposed to be this slimey? I had nat yellow and it was just thick oil like, but I got this bottle of supposed to be black and its a little too gooey? Or is it normal for black

my haifu seamoon and my coache's black oil is also that slimey

 

[chiefvevo]

my haifu seamoon and my coache's black oil is also that slimey

I see, this is my first time using black one so I guess it is normal compared to my national yellow