Need advice for blade and defense

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Hi everyone. I don't play tournaments, but I am probably around 1500 USATT. I like to attack with loops on both FH and BH. I am rather powerful, so on a good day I could loop like a 1800 player. But I really struggle with defense and blocking. My blocking consistency is like a 1200 beginner. I think I don't have the proper techniques and have bad reactions.

Question1.
When the opponent attacks with loops, should I stay close to the table to do a fast block? But I have bad blocking consistency. Or should I take a couple steps back and counter loop? I can counter pretty well against 1800+ players. But I have bad footwork and would misjudge the ball placement a lot. If this depends on the situation, how should I judge?

Question2.
I recently learned that my blade (Donic Black Devil Carbon Balsa) is springy in a non-linearly way and has little feedback. It's designed for advanced players who flat hits a lot. It's not ideal for blocking or developing skills. Many people would want to check my paddle the first time we play because of the high pitch sound it makes. So I know that my blade does have some uncommon feature. I tried a friend's Stiga hexagon all wood blade for like 20 min. Blocking is less bouncy, but I could not adapt to that in just 20 min so I can't say if it's better for me. And overall it does feel different. Maybe that's the "feedback." I am considering getting a budget inner carbon blade (Sword VSEA because I have family traveling to China in a few months). I wonder if someone has some comments or suggestions. Thanks!
 

ZFT

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ZFT

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Investing in coaching out bad habits would solve a lot of your problems in Q1.

Around your level it’s very common:
- hands start too low
- mind, body and/or hands are too stiff
- adding power instead of borrowing
- blocking too early
- flinching
- lower body stability
- weight going in wrong direction
- not knowing the difference between passive down block and active block
- incorrect thumb or index pressure

I think you should play in at least a few tournaments per year as opponents play differently when there are higher stakes. Even if you can counter well, after a few successes there will be an adjustment made to loop at different speeds, spin, height and depths.

You’ll realise it’s better to build a solid blocking framework first rather than think you’re the one countering well against 1800+… the reality is the 1800+ have sufficient consistency to “feed” their loop to you… there’s a certain humility in recognising it’s their control that is making your confidence possible.

Balsa is quite tricky as it’s non linear, super light and stiff. Inner carbon may be a good step down but it still has some non-linearity when the carbon layer is activated. But the thing is, you won’t know if it’s your technique or the blade still..

If you can loop well already then maybe look instead at a 7 ply all wood with the same outer ply, same head dimensions and similar speed rating as your current blade to draw some information out as whether its technique or equipment related.

There will be those that say upload footage but I can understand if you don’t feel comfortable with it.

Also there will be fellow members that recommend very specific setups that work for them, but it’s almost impossible to make such a conclusion if you haven’t provided what rubbers you are currently using.
 
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Investing in coaching out bad habits would solve a lot of your problems in Q1.

Around your level it’s very common:
- hands start too low
- mind, body and/or hands are too stiff
- adding power instead of borrowing
- blocking too early
- flinching
- lower body stability
- weight going in wrong direction
- not knowing the difference between passive down block and active block
- incorrect thumb or index pressure

I think you should play in at least a few tournaments per year as opponents play differently when there are higher stakes. Even if you can counter well, after a few successes there will be an adjustment made to loop at different speeds, spin, height and depths.

You’ll realise it’s better to build a solid blocking framework first rather than think you’re the one countering well against 1800+… the reality is the 1800+ have sufficient consistency to “feed” their loop to you… there’s a certain humility in recognising it’s their control that is making your confidence possible.

Balsa is quite tricky as it’s non linear, super light and stiff. Inner carbon may be a good step down but it still has some non-linearity when the carbon layer is activated. But the thing is, you won’t know if it’s your technique or the blade still..

If you can loop well already then maybe look instead at a 7 ply all wood with the same outer ply, same head dimensions and similar speed rating as your current blade to draw some information out as whether its technique or equipment related.

There will be those that say upload footage but I can understand if you don’t feel comfortable with it.

Also there will be fellow members that recommend very specific setups that work for them, but it’s almost impossible to make such a conclusion if you haven’t provided what rubbers you are currently using.
This is an excellent post and seems to cover a lot of the information you need.
 
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I can counter pretty well against 1800+ players. But I have bad footwork and would misjudge the ball placement a lot. If this depends on the situation, how should I judge?
I find this a very interesting statement.
 
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Investing in coaching out bad habits would solve a lot of your problems in Q1.

Around your level it’s very common:
- hands start too low
- mind, body and/or hands are too stiff
- adding power instead of borrowing
- blocking too early
- flinching
- lower body stability
- weight going in wrong direction
- not knowing the difference between passive down block and active block
- incorrect thumb or index pressure

I think you should play in at least a few tournaments per year as opponents play differently when there are higher stakes. Even if you can counter well, after a few successes there will be an adjustment made to loop at different speeds, spin, height and depths.

You’ll realise it’s better to build a solid blocking framework first rather than think you’re the one countering well against 1800+… the reality is the 1800+ have sufficient consistency to “feed” their loop to you… there’s a certain humility in recognising it’s their control that is making your confidence possible.

Balsa is quite tricky as it’s non linear, super light and stiff. Inner carbon may be a good step down but it still has some non-linearity when the carbon layer is activated. But the thing is, you won’t know if it’s your technique or the blade still..

If you can loop well already then maybe look instead at a 7 ply all wood with the same outer ply, same head dimensions and similar speed rating as your current blade to draw some information out as whether its technique or equipment related.

There will be those that say upload footage but I can understand if you don’t feel comfortable with it.

Also there will be fellow members that recommend very specific setups that work for them, but it’s almost impossible to make such a conclusion if you haven’t provided what rubbers you are currently using.
Thanks for the suggestions! I currently have Fastarc G1 FH, Tibhar EL-P BH. I didn't consider an all wood blade because I heard they are slow on power hit/loop. I just don't want to buy another blade if I improve in a year or two. But since you mentioned it, I will do some research.

For blocking techniques, I asked 2000+ USATT rating players for help when I get a chance. The feedback I got is lower my body more, and turn my body instead of reaching out my arm. Someone would tell me to hit the ball earlier, while others would tell me to hit later. Hitting later seems easier for me so I would focus on that for now. Another problem I noticed is when the opponent attacks, I would have an "oh shat!" in my head. This low confidence is also hindering my technique. BTW, I once practiced with some 2200+ players (former pro), it doesn't matter how I block. The speed and power are just beyond my capability.

Some more background...
I had a couple group sessions with a former Olympian. But, it was expensive, she's not that good at teaching my level. And the biggest problem I have is I don't have much time to play, so the coaching sessions are not that effective. There is not much table tennis resource around my area. That's why I haven't played in many years. I got back to the game last October, playing around 2 to 3 hours per week, mostly casual doubles with seniors.

A few weeks ago, I joined a club, so I can play an additional 3 hours per week. We play league games with club ranking. It's not tournament level serious, but everyone focuses and tries to win. We only have like 30-40 players in the club. So the ranking system is probably not that precise. When I say I counter well against 1800+ players, their actual level is probably more like 1700-1800 USATT. My own level of 1500 is an estimate from a friend who has an official 2100 USATT. These are just numbers, my point is, my forehand looping and counter are better than my blocking, so should I focus more on counter instead of blocking close to the table? Maybe it's not a good mentality for long term learning.
 
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Hi everyone. I don't play tournaments, but I am probably around 1500 USATT. I like to attack with loops on both FH and BH. I am rather powerful, so on a good day I could loop like a 1800 player. But I really struggle with defense and blocking. My blocking consistency is like a 1200 beginner. I think I don't have the proper techniques and have bad reactions.
I just watched a video about "beginner mistakes" and there was a very interesting statement which went like this "Your level is not based on who you beat, but who you lose to". So you might have an odd style or a very specific strength that might lead you to compete against better players, but if you lose against the old grandpa with pips, your overall level is still low and you are probably only a "one trick pony" at best.
 
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You’ll realise it’s better to build a solid blocking framework first rather than think you’re the one countering well against 1800+… the reality is the 1800+ have sufficient consistency to “feed” their loop to you… there’s a certain humility in recognising it’s their control that is making your confidence possible.
This is also very true. Having a coach feed you in regular exercises may make you look awesome, because he really places the ball where it needs to be for you to perform. If i do the same exercise with a player even two or three levels below i perform way worse or rather it shows that it is more the coach helping you than you being very good at that one thing. So even having an experienced coach with >1900 TTR is basically a works different to somebody feeding you that is < 1500 TTR.
 
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I just watched a video about "beginner mistakes" and there was a very interesting statement which went like this "Your level is not based on who you beat, but who you lose to". So you might have an odd style or a very specific strength that might lead you to compete against better players, but if you lose against the old grandpa with pips, your overall level is still low and you are probably only a "one trick pony" at best.
damn, this sounds too close to home, i get more points playing against 1700 TTR topspin players in my club than the garage player with pips. what's the video you mention?
 
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If someone is feeding me to make me think I am good at countering, then I should also feel easy to block because they are just feeding the ball. You are missing my point. I am not saying I struggle against lower level players. I am trying to say I identified my own weakness, which is defense, especially blocking. I attack a lot when playing against people at my similar level. But when against higher ranking players, they are more aggressive than players at my level. When they attack, 8 out of 10 blocks would miss. Their looping isn't that much better than mine, but they could block better.
 

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Yeah sometimes even Olympians can miss the mark if there’s no real two way understanding.

Though sometimes it could be about how you accept and receive feedback - a couple of others have hinted at it too, I think the word is etiquette? Maybe not the correct term, but sometimes your tone can come across as abit defensive (pun intended 😅), or a bit too certain and critical, even if that’s not your intention.

But it is awesome to see how genuinely keen you are to improve, there’s been some quality advice in this thread already, which hasn’t just went full rogue into another EJ battle thread!
 
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Thanks for the suggestions! I currently have Fastarc G1 FH, Tibhar EL-P BH. I didn't consider an all wood blade because I heard they are slow on power hit/loop. I just don't want to buy another blade if I improve in a year or two. But since you mentioned it, I will do some research.
I just looked into Devil Balsa and the outer material is “fineline” which turned my “find the same outerply” advice into absolute shambles 😂

So I learnt it’s the process of gluing veneers together into a block and making a ply out of it. So the wood material could be made up of anything.

The only compact 7 ply allwood blade I can think of that is known to pair well with grippy type rubbers like G1 and EL-P is Persson Powerplay, if considering the paper film layer to be wood plies. It’s cheap and worth getting.

Look into the solid handle version to match up with what you currently have.

The upgrade roadmap is pretty known as well: koto+composite
 
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Yeah sometimes even Olympians can miss the mark if there’s no real two way understanding.

Though sometimes it could be about how you accept and receive feedback - a couple of others have hinted at it too, I think the word is etiquette? Maybe not the correct term, but sometimes your tone can come across as abit defensive (pun intended 😅), or a bit too certain and critical, even if that’s not your intention.

But it is awesome to see how genuinely keen you are to improve, there’s been some quality advice in this thread already, which hasn’t just went full rogue into another EJ battle thread!
Oh I will pay attention to my tone. I didn't mean to be defensive or anything. I just saw the discussion going into me being over confident on my looping, which was not my purpose of the discussion. So I wanted to pull the conversation back to improving blocking.

I am good at looping, bad at blocking. It's all relative to my level. So I was thinking about using my strength to cover my weakness - step back and counter. Then I will need to focus on improving my footwork. I mentioned the ranking stuff only because you can't see me play. It's not to prove what level I am at. Maybe this is where the distraction comes from.

And I considered changing a blade because for most of the time, I don't understand why I miss a block. If I miss a loop, usually I can give myself some feedback like I missed the timing, blade angle, bad decision, etc. For blocking, I just feel I have much less control. I have only owned a premade paddle and my current carbon balsa blade. So I have no experience with equipment and was wondering if this blade is indeed a hard one to learn blocking. Or the blade does not matter that much, and I just don't understand the techniques to block.
 
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Right gear helps but it’ll be the training that will make it count.

I do think the non linearity of balsa is contributing to your lack of confidence in blocking.

Balsa fits a specific niche - people with short term or pre-existing arm hand injury requiring the lightest and/or fastest setup possible, push blockers using anti/LP Ox or SP hitters.

It’s very rare to see classically trained double inverted pure loopers use balsa as it’s not optimised playing far from the table when the balsa catapult would activate even sharper in higher power ranges.

I played with Joola R1/Rakza X for laughs and it was low trajectory and very very touchy to say the least. I could imagine someone with otherworldly talent like Verstappen with how he handles his Red Bull F1 car being able to get the maximum potential out of it though. Maybe that can be you 😀

You’ve got rubbers already strong for solid blocking, so I wouldn’t change them.
 
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