Advice for beginners: No need to change your blade

[piligrim]

The information given by blade makers as well as much online information make you believe that the material in your blade is of the utmost importance. That there is a special blade composition out there that will make you a better player. Ignore all of that stuff for now.

As the threads about blades with one offensive and one defensive side shows, for example the one about Sanwei Two Face, the differences between different kinds of wood are subtle. Too subtle for a beginner like you and me to pick up on.

I have tried blades with different kinds of outer plies, limba, koto, ebony and ayous. It does not make any difference.

I have tried all wood blades, inner carbon blades, outer carbon blades. It does not make any difference.

I have tried blades with Kiri core, Candlenut core and Ayous core. It does not make any difference.

It is the whole composition of a blade that matters, but only when we have advanced enough to know what kind of players we are. For now, the only thing that matters regarding the blade is that it has a nice feeling to hold and swing. If the feeling is off, change the rubber to a cheap rubber that is recommended for beginners! Or add weight to the handle! There is a lot you can do with the blade you currently use. For the next year or years, what we need to focus on is our technique. The most important thing about the blade is that you stick to it! The faster you learn how your blade behaves, the faster you can move on to develop better feeling for the game itself.

One thing is for sure - the entire discussion about materials are not as important as they want us to believe!

Schlager said opposite. He said to keep rubbers and change blade

 

[jk1980]

of course he does. Butterfly would generate revenue from their rubbers (regardless if one sticks with the same one or changes them) periodically anyways, but having the people also switch blades is much more lucrative for them.

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

Hello,

My sons and I start learning table tennis. On our first lesson, we used Decathlon cheap bat, but the coach said it was not proper since there was no sponge. Therefore, I used his bat.
Since we need 1-2 bat(s), I am looking for a cheap one to begin with.
From my reading, the all-wood (no carbon) blade with slow speed and good (high) control rating is more suitable for beginner. Is this correct ?

Several blades that are available in my area :
1. Yinhe N11 (speed 7.9 , control 8.6)
2. Yinhe N11s (speed 8.2 , control 9.4)
3. Sanwei Paramid (speed 8.7 , control 8.9 ) - my coach offers a used one.
4. Double Fish Dragon Blade 1 ZLC (speed 9.4 , control 9.1) - my coach offers a used one. I think this one is too advance.
For the rubber I might just use cheap Yinhe Mercury (soft and thickness 1.8-2.0 mm)
Which one will be the most suitable one ?

I greatly appreciate any input or recommendation. Thank you in advance

yinhe N11/s + Mercury is a good pairing
DF Dragon ZLC is indeed way too advance/fast.

 

[Tyce]

Schlager said opposite. He said to keep rubbers and change blade

As good as he is, most professional players know what works for them, not necessarily what works for a lot of people.

 

[Pe-ter]

These chaep T88-III are a steal, I found them on promo and bought just to give it a try for my begginer son and they are really good on some lightweight blade. Possible to create some rotation, but in a controlled way.

Got myself a Sanwei T5000 with Mercury 2 on both sides, whole setup was less than 10€. Glue was more expensive than the racket. Has plenty of control and also speed if you need it to. Great setup for any amateur who wants to give table tennis a try and develop further.
Friend of mine is using Mercury 2 rubbers on a Yinhe V14 pro, rocking our league. You can't find a better rubber in that price range.

Changing rackets, I'm guilty in this as well and have to say that even though it slowed down my development, in the end I'm glad I did it. Found a setup that I feel comfortable with, so now I can't blame the racket anymore.

 

[Bruschk0v]

Got myself a Sanwei T5000 with Mercury 2 on both sides, whole setup was less than 10€. Glue was more expensive than the racket. Has plenty of control and also speed if you need it to. Great setup for any amateur who wants to give table tennis a try and develop further.
Friend of mine is using Mercury 2 rubbers on a Yinhe V14 pro, rocking our league. You can't find a better rubber in that price range.

Changing rackets, I'm guilty in this as well and have to say that even though it slowed down my development, in the end I'm glad I did it. Found a setup that I feel comfortable with, so now I can't blame the racket anymore.

Which hardness?

 

[Pe-ter]

Which hardness?

Medium on FH, Soft on BH.

 

[piligrim]

As good as he is, most professional players know what works for them, not necessarily what works for a lot of people.

He was talking about people who start to play, not about him and other pros

 

[ThePongCommenter]

As good as he is, most professional players know what works for them, not necessarily what works for a lot of people.

The difference between Schlager and other professional players is that Schlager was the head coach of a successful training academy for many years

 

[Yoruzuya@26]

I am a confessed Equipment junkie, and having owned over 30 different blades, Korbel Japan, and an inner carbon blade with excellent feeling is all that you need until you reach a solid intermediate and league level. There is no need for beginners or lower intermediate players to be playing with outer carbon blades.

 

[Taute]

The information given by blade makers as well as much online information make you believe that the material in your blade is of the utmost importance. That there is a special blade composition out there that will make you a better player. Ignore all of that stuff for now.

As the threads about blades with one offensive and one defensive side shows, for example the one about Sanwei Two Face, the differences between different kinds of wood are subtle. Too subtle for a beginner like you and me to pick up on.

I have tried blades with different kinds of outer plies, limba, koto, ebony and ayous. It does not make any difference.

I have tried all wood blades, inner carbon blades, outer carbon blades. It does not make any difference.

I have tried blades with Kiri core, Candlenut core and Ayous core. It does not make any difference.

It is the whole composition of a blade that matters, but only when we have advanced enough to know what kind of players we are. For now, the only thing that matters regarding the blade is that it has a nice feeling to hold and swing. If the feeling is off, change the rubber to a cheap rubber that is recommended for beginners! Or add weight to the handle! There is a lot you can do with the blade you currently use. For the next year or years, what we need to focus on is our technique. The most important thing about the blade is that you stick to it! The faster you learn how your blade behaves, the faster you can move on to develop better feeling for the game itself.

One thing is for sure - the entire discussion about materials are not as important as they want us to believe!

I agree only partially...I didn't feel much difference between mass-produced blades, which cost from 20 to 300+ Eur. I really didn't start playing better. Until I tried a handmade blade, which was made FOR ME, i.e.: according to my playing style, my "big hand".
The fact that it was created FOR ME, with which I still play - cannot be compared to any mass-produced blade. It is incomparable. Of course, finding what I need required very long discussions with the manufacturer (developer). Until he understood how I play and what I need.
Maybe, through many attempts, I would have found something similar from mass-produced blades, but I just feel sorry for the time and finances for that.