Search results

What wears out rubbers is oxidation and of course sun light. I would put the unused blade in a plastic bag, empty the air out as much as possible seal with a tight rubber band, put it in a case and store in a dry place with even temp. They should do fine for years. Cheers L-zr

The reason I like Filus is that it has a thick spruce layer on top. The most pleasant blade I have played had just this. There is also another pimplepark blade "pila" with the same layer on top. However this blade is a bit thick so it may lack the the flex I like. Hmm don't know... Cheers L-zr

I like a little flex to the blade no problem there, and the head size can be sanded down, done that several times. If its not too much it wont harm the characteristics much. If anything it should make the blade stiffer. Cheers L-zr

Thanks for the replies. I am not intending to do much change to my style of playing. I am already using a slow setup, but the thing is that for the last few training sessions my trainer introduced chopping. I am thinking of going just a little slower and incorporating this stroke in my arsenal...

I am wondering if an allround player may benefit from using a slow blade with fast rubbers? I currently use a fast blade with slow rubbers, but is it worth trying? I am thinking pimpleparks Filius blade with something like Tenergy05... Cheers L-zr

I agree the blue sponge is a little faster and feels a little harder. It’s also a bit heavier. I buy them in batches and weigh them with the package, The light ones I use for some blades and the heavy ores för others. It can differ a lot in weight. A really heavy I try to match up with a light...

It's definatly slower... All my other rubbers are faster than my (boosted) H3 (both orange and blue) in the short game. This is the reason I started to play them... And most of my other rubbers are also faster with mid power. It's only at high power H3 excels.... Cheers L-zr

I disagree. It’s not more difficult than others. They all have there own quirks. The short game for instance is a lot easier… The only drawback (if any) is that you need to hit harder for power… Cheers L-zr

I don’t agree either that H3 is more difficult. Chinese rubbers usually brushes better and ESN rubbers does better åt full contact due to the snap the catapult generates. The only thing with H3 is that you need to really go for it away from the table. Åt a distance a rubber like T05 has the...

Until you are 4 feet under… Cheers L-zr

Playing ~3 sessions/week. Changing rubbers once per season (2 seasons in a year)… Cheers L-zr

Absolutely. Waldner (and also Appelgren) and his local club generates sales. At least in this country (Sweden)... Cheers L-zr

When You pull the rubbers off, do NOT do it top to bottom. The wood is strongest across the fibers and I have never seen a blade where the fibers doesn't run from top to bottom. Therefore remove them slowly side to side... A layer of sealer will also help, but not always. The longer a rubber is...

If you have a problem receiving serves you definitely don’t want Tenergy, specially not Tenergy05. Cheers L-zr

After you seal the blade with a lacker you should rough the surface just a tiny bit with a 600 sand paper. This allows the glue to get something to hold on to… Cheers L-zr

I have now had time to extensively test the (original) nova carbon. I must say I really really like it. It’s fast enough with a little flex and my now broken in H3 BS 39 has a great feel to it. It loops great close to the table and it also with good push game specially with H3. I have a little...

I always use protector sheets, but never sticky ones, they are dust magnets…, I use non sticky ones even om non sticky rubbers…. Cheers L-zr

Tenergy05 is still one of the best rubbers from a bit behind the table… Cheers L-zr

Use a robot and put the table up against the back of the garage…. You can probably practice pretty much all shorts that are not high… Cheers L-zr

1.9 ??? Due to the weight? Cheers L-zr