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Those weights aren't too bad! My OSP V+ setup w/ 2x nittaku fastarc G-1s and a couple layers of glue comes to 192g.

I'm glad they arrived safely! Also, I see that your scale is more precise than the one I have...🤣. Those solid walnut handles add quite a bit of weight, though they would have been closer to low-90 grams with typical lighter-weight wood handles. That low balance point makes them feel a lot...

I can't wait for you to get the new ones to compare! I want to love the Sitka-Spruce variant most because of how aesthetically pleasing that blade is, but I get the sense the Port Orford Cedar core variant will be closer to the current OLD version (with the engelmann-spruce/lodgepole pine core)...

Some new blades for a forum member who is well known for liking handle-heavy blades. The following two blades were designed as replacements for the 5-ply Koto-Larch-Engelmann Spruce (core) -Larch-Koto composition that he has been playing with. Long-story-short, I don't have access to the core...

SO much helpful information in this thread! I know how you feel about dirty handles and I can agree - function is more important than aesthetics and there's something nice about having a blade whose handle shows it has clearly been used (and loved). Sand those wings! I remember getting my...

As always, I appreciate your in-depth analysis. It completely makes sense why you and many others don't like a sealed handle. I think for me, I don't sweat that much, so there's almost a nice grippiness to a sealed handle for lower sweat hands (especially when I used to use a gloss finish). Upon...

Good questions (part of my response is to you directly, the rest is in general toward other commenters in this thread). I don't know exactly what manufacturers use to glue them on (e.g., I even asked Oscar from Nexy for details about the epoxy used for composite layers and he wouldn't give up...

PVA glue would be just fine. If you have access to liquid hide-glue (made from animal parts and connective tissues), then you'd have a glue that would allow for easier disassembly (with heat and a little moisture). In the US, Titebond makes a liquid hide-glue but I'm not sure what major glue...

I can follow along for the most part, but it does seem like the auto-generated subtitles aren't quite right from time to time. For example, at 3:06 into the video, apparently Oscar is saying "...that contraction 1 uses Satan to prevent reflections." Maybe it's mis-translated? Maybe I've...

It's hard to put a percentage to it, but the glue makes a significant difference in the feeling and vibration of the blade. Hypnotic, myself, and others have built blades with identical wood compositions and only varying the glue used, and to my knowledge, nearly everyone who tries these...

I certainly don't have all the answers, but I think what you suggested earlier is a big part of it. I have personally found that Spruce as a medial ply produces a springy type of power that you don't get with most other medial plies. The springiness is different from the flex you get from a...

That's great to know - I appreciate your insight! From your experiences, it's looking like redwood may be an acceptable core-material. :)

That will be great - I'm interested to hear how other people go about testing and selecting blades. At the present, I'm overwhelmed by the sheet amount of possible combinations I have access to and am struggling to know how to separate out what seem to feel like pleasant nuances of each design...

I think you're correct - on the product page they refer to T19 as "no. 219", so clearly they just keep trying different iterations until they find something meets their needs. Perhaps it would have been better for them to name it T219, since the numbering scheme doesn't actually relate to...

I'd like to echo what's already been said: 1) I think you could fix it to the point where it would most likely play fine; however, it really depends on how deep that crack goes - the concerning bit is that crack goes through most of the wood plies and it looks like you might have that kind of...

Thanks for the impressions! I'm glad you don't find the sealed handle too bothersome. It seems like the redwood is a little stiffer in the direction of the wood-grain compared to many of the other core materials I have used, so I'm not surprised it doesn't give as much flex as the V+ (not to...

I imagine major blade manufacturers don't do it for one of two reasons: 1) perhaps if it's too shallow, it doesn't give enough "purchase" on the grip and doesn't perform in an ideal way, or 2) maybe it's just convention and how it's always been done and they're still using many of the same...

It's great you brought this up! I started cutting that "thumb-chamfer" on the handle a bit shallower because I liked it lining up flush with most 2.0mm - max rubber (I never liked bumping into the lip of the rubber when I move my thumb around for different shots), but I never gave thought to...

I made it with a flared handle for Carl, and, to deter many of the straight-handle-using Goon Squad from lusting after it. :cool: