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I'm a bit confused. I've been running a club for years now - making sure it runs fine, accepts new members, does what it takes to retain existing ones, facilitates competition participation, offers occasions dedicated to older seniors, youths, higher-level players. Keeping the accommodation...

My experience is somewhat shallow with these two blades, so for whatever it's worth. They're actually not all that far apart in terms of speed. The Clipper is a bit harder and stiffer, the C45 a bit softer and flexier. Weight matters, a few grams more already gets a blade more oomph...

Anyone's guess is as good as mine, but my hunch says it's bound to be a hybrid, with a responsive EU/JP style sponge and a tacky CN style topsheet.

I bought three pairs, airing the used pair after play and using the pair longest unused next time.

The pros actually seem to play it safe, mostly, staying clear from full commitment, with minor exceptions. I think I see a little trend towards more risk, more creativity, more unexpectedness at that level and if true welcome that trend. Even less spin and speed would not encourage that, I...

Toe-curling, cringeful, horrendously beautiful.

Just in time for Christmas something arrived on my doorstep. I've named it Hammaren (first of its name) and have not played with it yet, us being in lockdown. A sollid OFF-, walnut/limba/innegra carbon/kiri/innegra carbon/limba/walnut; 90.3g - 6.1mm - 1356Hz - Balance: 2.5cm (Low).

Very strong performance! When can we expect a TTD - Pongfinity shootout? [emoji41]

Well, that's quite a stack of goodies. Unhampered by any insight into your skill and play level and style, the most tempting combination for me would be the Sweden Extra with Vega Pro, closely followed by the Virtuoso with same.

Then again, no need to peel it off at all if it’s a thin layer. And the thinner layer creates the stronger bond, or so the glue people told me.

Footage is key. Yet spotting and pointing out issues that could be improved upon is, though useful by itself, not enough. For example, when younger I was told many times to shorten my FH strokes, in order to improve my reset. True, but it didn’t help me to find a way to actually acomplish that...

No. It is not.

By the looks of it, I'd guess: Tibhar Aurus Select.

This may or may not help you in choosing, but I humbly suggest having a look at Buridan's ass. I find it enlightening, in the face of dilemmas such as you seem to be suffering.

There’s much more stuff competing for time, attention, focus now. I spent 5 or 6 days at the club when young. I had also finished just about every book in the library back then. We didn’t have a TV, some of that time. When we did, there were two or three channels, broadcasting for a couple of...

Well, the rulebook already defines classes of rubbers, based on which 0x sponge pips-out rubbers are specifically allowed as an exception to the rule requiring rubbers to have a sponge, in general. So it's relatively easy to define a few classes, e.g. Inverted rubber Regular (frictive...

I’m not convinced. I’ve met players like that, using rubbers so deteriorated that they might as well have used a low-friction anti. The funny thing is, that argument applies to a single side already. Some of these players used stuff so old that it was effectively anti in some hit spots, and...

… whereas the others do less so? That’s not really an anwer, now is it?

Sorry, but no. M = F * d, with d being the distance between the center of the ball and the center of mass of the outer material, perpendicular. Consider three spherical objects of 40 mm diameter and 2.7g. 1. a foam ball of uniform consistency 2. a small, heavy spherical mass (diameter 2mm...

Are you a both wing looper? Then 2.1 on both. Or is your game more FH-oriented, with a slightly more direct BH? Then 2.1/1.9. Are you more of a direct player? Then 1.9 on both. Or will you be chopping as well? Then 1.7. [emoji41]