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Just bought a Joola Tezzo Warrior Pro, it won't arrive for another month though. From what I've heard, it's got some rather good comments from some CNT players.

I've tried DHS 15, it always forms streaks when applying, kind of like when the rubber was boosted but not dried entirely. So I'm not going to recommend it even if it costs so little. And I buy the 500ml Free Chack Pro II, even if it costs twice the money as some other popular glue, I only...

That’s what I’ve been saying as well 👍 Free Chack Pro II is the best

Yeah yeah, sure, mhmm, cool, right, great. So you can tell anyone what hardness of what rubber they should use then? If not, then it’s not very helpful at all, no more helpful then having soft/medium/hard marked on the packaging, one still needs to try out the rubber to know whether it suits them.

profiteering mostly, long 5x on taobao.com costs around CNY 875, direct conversion is about $120.

The important thing is not the relationship to other rubbers, it's how they make you feel when you play with them. I'm pretty sure mostly everyone knows that the hardness is for the sponge only, not the entire sheet (sponge + top sheet = entire sheet).

As long as no one from ESN comes out to say they're using Asker C, it's just speculation. And it's not the same as saying "We're all gonna die someday. What does it matter?". But if that's what you want to believe then it's what you believe, I just believe that sponge hardness is just a number...

You missed the point there. All I'm trying to say is what ESN is using as their scale is purely based on speculation. And also this:

Butterfly FreeChack Pro II is my favorite. Don't get the normal FreeChack II, those are not good at all. Revolution 3 is also pretty good.

Yeah, I know it doesn't really convert. But It should still be in the ballpark, as we're not comparing hardness of different materials, we're comparing the same materials but measured with different scale. Otherwise, how could we ever compare the hardness of anything? The scale for shore A and...

Um I'd say highly unlikely it's Asker C...

Sorry no pics right now, but it'll be a bit hard to take a good pic anyways since you know the screen protectors are transparent... basically, just align them properly and press it on for a few seconds, just like putting a screen protector on a phone, if they come off you can use some glue or...

I sent a link of this post to [email protected], that’s still the support email I’m assuming?

So I found a cheap and easy fix for the guide rails. The problem with the guide rails is it gets dirty really quick, so I bought some Apple Watch tempered glass screen protectors, and stuck them on there. I bought a 3-pack which costs about $10. Currently I have the screen protectors on the...

so here's a quick and lazy review of this new robot. Ball Feeder: The robot doesn't destroy balls anymore. This is a big big plus over the 1.0 test unit I have. Over the past two weeks, I've used this robot more or less every other day for around 1 hour each, no balls were damaged during this...

Not bad not bad

I don't think it's worth it to ship over there, probably gonna cost more than the blade itself. And it's already sold btw, the PRO version is still available though.

There's a few I got over the years, most recently a double net post then edge.

Then you should have said so in your first post, since you phrased it like that it sounded like you're teaching people how to do it, not sharing your experience.

Booster penetrates the glue layer, you want the booster going in otherwise why do you even boost it for? Or are you saying you are trying to prevent the booster entering the thing you want to boost? That doesn’t make sense at all. The layer of glue only acts as an extra storage of booster, not a...