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This is a valuable perspective because it does go against a lot of "conventional wisdom" that's bandied about, but it also in my mind reinforces the importance of an individual's playstyle and technique when it comes to what equipment actually supports their success. Granted, I would say 1800 is...

I also wear glasses and agree the orange ball is often easier to see, though it does depend on the environment. There's no rule against using the orange ball; both are legal under ITTF rules. The white ball is simply traditional and most tournaments aren't held in places with white walls and...

Yup, I use it with all my blades. Doesn't take a lot, so a can lasts forever. Just be sure to wear disposable gloves and work over cardboard or something in case you spill some. Apply in a ventilated area and let it set for 24h before gluing rubbers.

I'll admit I've been feverishly refreshing a handful of sites waiting for this to drop...

Regular R7 is (according to Yasaka) 45-47 already, so 50 makes sense.

This. This is what I've noticed. I don't know if we can attritbute this to blade alone, rubbers, or both. To me short game issues seem more like a rubber problem. Balls going long could be either. I have to wonder how it would look with his old Xiom rubbers on the same Joola blade, even if he...

For you, maybe. The same cannot be said for everyone, or everyone would use it. It's much harder than G-1 or Glayzer, for one thing. (It's even harder than Glayzer 09c.) It also has a tacky topsheet, which neither G-1 or the regular Glayzer do. Do a hard sponge and tacky topsheet offer...

Any word on a release date? No one seems to carry it yet.

This is my question too. How on Earth do you (or your friend) intend to glue pips-down onto wood evenly and securely? This seems even easier to mess up than OX pips-out.

Yes; the FH is PLC and the BH is ALC. I've never used PLC, but it's supposedly a lower-cost alternative to ZLC with similar properties. It may depend on the blade. My Pro 11s handle is narrower than the Yasaka and Sanwei blades I've had, but my coach has a Yinhe with a nice, full handle. (His...

I've used Tear Mender to help remove old glue layers, before I switched DHS. Never been brave enough to try it on its own, as I've seen mixed reviews about its possibly being too strong, and drying/clumping quickly on the blade.

I actually was planning to update my post here in the next day or two when I have time to write something more thought-out, but the short version is: I like it a lot, but it isn't perfect. It has really helped me understand/reinforced what I do and don't like in a blade. I do think it manages to...

I would agree with this. Performance-wise, probably equal? Yinhe I think has more variety and yes, better overall finish. (Although I had to sand the edges of the wings on my Pro 11s, which is a ~$50 blade. So that was a little disappointing.) Sanwei handles are a little beefier, Yinhe a little...

DHS No.15. Revolution is easier to apply but the ease of removing DHS15 is just too big of a difference-maker. It took some practice to get the technique down but once you figure it out it's quick and easy. Some tips for DHS users: Be sure to shake the bottle (especially the 500mL) for...

I'm neither a physicist nor a materials expert but perhaps the carbon is just too soft to add stiffness in that direction. It definitely looks cool, though. I thought it was a thick spruce core at first! Here's a wacky idea: could you wrap the edge of the core ply in carbon or some other...

Out of curiosity, if you were content with it why not simply by a new Reinforce AC? It appears to still be available from a few places. Based on a suspected composition of Koto-Ayous-Aramid-Kiri, the closest still-in-production blade might be the Donic Original True Carbon Inner, though that...

True. But I wasn't making an exact comparison, only that G-1 is the "similar, but better" version of Rakza 7 in the way that D05 is the "similar, but better" version of Glayzer. G-1≠D05; I'd argue D05 is more challenging to use. OP can handle D05 to an extent but is looking for a more forgiving...

Having used multiple sheets of both I have to disagree. They certainly do have similarities in being highly linear, durable Japanese rubbers, but G-1 is a noticeable step up over R7. Grippier, a little more spin sensitive, more difficult to engage the sponge, but higher overall speed and spin...

I haven't used O7P/Tour but I have Omega V Tour on my HAL and love it. I've thought about trying the O7P (or even O8) to see if it's somehow even better, but something in me suspects I'll just end up with more bounce and speed that I don't need, and the O5T's topsheet is already wonderfully...

This is very interesting! While I agree that OVT has some catapult and G-1 is more linear, I don't find them that strongly different. They are two of my favorite rubbers and it's partly because I found Omega V Tour to have a much more manageable catapult than T05 or the Rasanters. (And the DYF...