Search results

Because I have far too much money and peace of mind, and too few things to obsess over. ...😜

You raised a interesting point Sergio re: clamping at room temp -- it made me think Xiom might conceivably be using a contact cement of some sort rather then a traditional wet layup, as that way they're not reliant on heat to get a decent cure time. I've never actually experimented much with...

Thanks very much for that 🙂🙂 -- I honestly was not aware Xiom released that info as part of their marketing. That is the first time I've personally heard of one of the majors releasing that sort of info about a production process (the press settings for a blade - just like the glues they use...

Well...I really hate to say it, but there *is* a problem really.... Quite possibly several problems actually. The problem is that blade (most probably) has patches of either missing glue (or else sub-standard adhesion at best) directly underneath the outer layer. That really isn't going to give...

Man -- Xiom's QA processes are really heading down the toilet 🙄 My sincere condolences on being sold a lemon -- never a pleasant prospect. In further news, it's interesting to me that Xiom (according to what they told you) are apparently embracing / using / trialling / shifting to cold press...

Personally I'd say yes. I've used both rubbers a fair bit -- both are excellent in my view, but the R7 is a bit more user friendly. The R9 is the faster of the two and is therefore a bit harder to control. I don't boost my rubbers so I can only comment on their factory performance.

Gotta add a plus one on the Pingskills online materials! These guys are former (? and current ?? 🤔) Australian national level coaches. All the advice & technique videos of theirs I've personally seen thus far (at beginner to Intermediate level at least) have been absolutely bang on. The...

Oops! 🤦 My bad -- ...make that Loki, not Xiom 🤣🤣🤣

The Rxton 9 is factory boosted IIRC. Very high tack levels and a very fast rubber -- it's spin & grip remind me a little bit of a Xiom Tau 2. The Rxton 7 however isn't factory boosted so it's a bit slower, but apparently you can buy a booster from Xiom Loki specifically made for it. One of my...

To clarify: when I say hybrid, I mean basically anyone who: 1. ... isn't a pure defender, attacker or all round player, and... 2. ...who also has a quirky, odd or unorthodox playing style. Here in Australia TT is very popular at casual / backyard level, but the number of people who then go on...

I think there's a fair few defenders and hybrid players out there who would probably disagree with you, but I get what you're saying. 😂😂

All the above is excellent advice. I encourage you to follow it. I would also encourage you to work intensively on your footwork, your anticipation, and the quality of your serve and service return In my own experience, nothing really lifts your potential as player quite as much, as learning...

At that price point I very much doubt they are a new technology. More likely they are a re-badged modification of an existing rubber. The look of the top sheet wear patterns (and sponge colours) remind me a little bit of the Palio AK-47 Blue -- as does the described performance and low purchase...

HAD to reply to that Bunnings poster on reading this, and tell them not to attempt it. The very thought of splitting a custom hand-made one-ply down the middle to get two useless unplayable halves... It just breaks your heart. 😭😭

Not to distract from the subject or derail the thread, but I do want to dispel the general notion that a blade that features multiple pieces of wood in the core is necessarily inferior. I make multi-ply blades which have both one piece cores, and multi-piece cores, and to suggest one or the...

This is probably the most likely explanation really. Other possible causes might include: - Using a core with uneven thickness; It's very hard to tell from the photos but the top ede of the break looks a little thinner than the bottom edge to me (but this could be a trick of perspective) -...

Anyone who has one really 😂 I'm very curious about the make-up of these blades, and would like to try cloning one.Never had a chance to try one or see one up close yet.

My advice: One thin wipe of water-based polyurethane, then immediately dry off the excess with a clean dry, lint free rag. Do this once per side - wet one side then dry it, then move onto the other side. Then once it's fully dry, give each side a very light rub with 220-240 grit sand paper...

Good to know -- thank you! 🙂 I was thinking blood glue earlier because of its unique feel, but again -- I've never seen the W968 up close, which ties my hands a fair bit. PVA, fish glue or hide glue would still be my first thoughts based on comments I've seen online about its unique playing...

Thanks for that Tony 🙂 There's not a huge amount I can conclusively draw from all that really, apart from maybe some key deductions about the glue and the outer ply. If the W968 genuinely lasts only two months at pro level, and if it genuinely seems to pack it in even sooner for players with...