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My guess is that mechanically speaking in terms of momentum and energy transfer, few grams do not matter much. However few more grams in the same volume of wood is likely changing density and mechanical response of the material. That for saying few grams do not matter much but depending on the...

I'm currently fighting with Donic Vario Clean, it destroyed my G1, I cannot remove it from the sponge and it doesn't even stick the rubber on the blade. This glue is total c**p. Litter.

I read the story about Chinese players and fake ages. Perhaps Germans fake their age too, but they fake to be older...

Very nice edge tapes! And interesting hybrid Vega series...

Seal the blade, use edge tape, use rubber protection sheets (sticky if rubber isn't tacky), buy a bat cover either hard case or a very thick and soft case, keep the bat far from kids, animals, water and fire, don't hit the table and last but not least don't use the handle for pleasure sake...

I made my current choice based on suggestions on this forum and I now use G1 2.0mm on FH and Tibhar Aurus 1.9mm (classic version) on BH. Control of the Aurus is amazing. I used FX-S for a while and I thought Tibhar products were just hyped garbage. I'm now impressed how good the Aurus rubber is.

I guess gamma rays would have killed you, hence I would safely exclude that case. What about the edge tape?

Seal your blade, wood doesn't like water as well as water-based glues. Otherwise I have to suspect you got rid of 9g of wood due to splintering...

This is the way. My senior mate at the club can repair a lot of types of damages. I've seen 2 blades from a top Italian player repaired by my mate exactly this way. These blades were badly damaged on one side, same depth as your damage but much more extended. After you apply the mixture of glue...

Seems Joola Rossi Emotion isn't very popular in this thread. My vote goes for it! I moved from Off- 5 ply all wood (Bfly Primorac, YSE, Victas Euro Feeling) to JRE without impact. Actually I feel more confident and consistent despite the higher hardness of the rubbers I've chosen.

I use the new one and looking at old reviews it seems to me only difference is design.

37.5° Is surprisingly soft, my guess is the topsheet is very hard and that would also make sense considering it's made for ABS balls. I think you won't be disappointed, Vega Europe is one of the most appreciated products from Xiom. Using the Europe/Euro name on a disappointing product would be...

I checked out Euro DF on the link in my previous post. It's 37.5° hard. Honestly I learned that anything below 42° is too soft and is not beneficial for learning. To be thorough I have to mention that topsheet hardness also plays a role, hence one should not judge a rubber exclusively from...

I didn't try the DF version. I do use Vega Europe (classic version) on a Yasaka Sweden Extra and it feels just right. Control is sweet and being a softer sponge glued on Anigre ply allows for that extra kick from the blade that produces a nice cracking sound when you hit correctly. I love that...

Yasaka Sweden Extra is a good and cheap blade worth every cent. If you liked Xiom, the Vega Europe is just great. Usually FH tends to privilege harder sponge, BH privileges softer sponges. So I would suggest Vega Pro (or Vega X) on FH and Vega Europe on BH. If you wait for the right discount...

I was told 2 very good tips to me. They may not fix the issue you have, but perhaps can come handy anyways... - because I tend to anticipate too much the impact, I was told to "take a breath then go", this fixed my timing and actually, timing apart, the breath in and breath out synchronization...

I'm not super-good in mechanics but I want to make a guess here and see if after 15 years I still remember something. 1. I would name D the thickness of the rubber (at rest) and assume for the sake of simplicity the rubber surface doesn't overextend after impact (max elongation is exactly D)...

I cannot find that wall on the ITTF LARC...

I read the entire thing... 5 years of comments. Question was about the blade with most dwell time. Then discussion went south. I read a lot of talking about existence of dwell time, quantification of it and whether that helps. My brain stopped at "blade with dwell time". I mean we play with ~2mm...

I'm a beginner here, so I'm just asking for the sake of discussion. When I play against short pips, in example my buddy uses them on FH, I feel like the faster I hit the faster he returns the ball back. It's just insane the amount of speed, it forces me to avoid fast balls. Just wondering if a...