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The factory booster will gas out in a month or so, so it may have been coincidence if it didn't just suddenly change. That being said I would avoid re-gluing if possible just to minimize chance of gluing errors. It's probably more difficult to get a perfect adhesion if there's already glue in...

You're probably right about it being ideal to never re-glue, but I'm personally not so worried about it. When I glued on this Vega Europe DF sheet, I messed it up and used too little glue (Norisuke-san is pretty liquid...) and it was dramatically loose at many spots. I noted how it plays before...

Not all symbols are actually the same. You may have been copy-pasting special symbols like : or / which are not actually the same ones as the website expects, which sometimes leads to them being deleted or changed.

I'd have to agree. The finish is kind of bad on the SPW, and the amount of times I've hit it on the table seems to correspond with the amount of dents it has. The Allround Evo was abused much more and it still looked brand new after years and years. In my hands, this blade will be completely...

Funnily I had an Allround Evolution that never got as much as a scratch, but I've chipped off a few parts of my Stratus Power Wood already in a month or so. Both sealed, but I suspect the job was pretty light on the SPW; I didn't do it myself. It should be a similar composition outer ply of the...

Gluing yes as it can change the tension on the sponge or stretch it, boosting obviously, mass obviously. Sealing, not really. It doesn't change the performance curves at all as far as testing goes. It doesn't change the physical properties either, like the natural frequencies and spring...

Nobody on the planet notices a difference in a blind test. High level players are typically sponsored and replace blades every couple weeks, they don't even keep them long enough to get damage.

I suspect the rubbers will influence it more than the blade does ultimately. My H3 is unboosted and old so it's not terribly elastic anymore. It can produce quality shots but it takes everything I have. I will be testing the new blade with fresh Battle II, and while I know it's not good to...

That's really surprising to me, given that people describe the Stratus Power Wood as "a little bit faster than Korbel". So the Fextra 7 would be a step in the other direction then. I'll probably just need to try them all and see for myself. Luckily the Sanwei blades are on the cheaper end...

The Stratus Power Wood is a little bit too controlled for me after getting back into the game for a few weeks now, so I was thinking to eventually end up playing with either a Fextra 7 or Clipper Wood, although for now I'm going to try out a Sanwei Fextra 5X inner carbon and see how I get along...

Without seeing you hit, we can't really tell. You could be doing anything. If you want me to guess, not enough bat speed, not enough brushing, or too much brushing. :P

Huh, taking another look at it, it's probably the Japanese sponge one. Oh well; can always try both! Traditionally I've used sticky topsheet on the backhand, although Europe DF has not been an adjustment at all.

For what it's worth, my backhand flick was not landing at all and I was resorting to flat hits. Later I rubbed the ball on the sheet and it just wouldn't grab, the ball would slide easily. I replaced it with another model and now my backhand flick lands. The rubber had been stored improperly and...

A lot of people at lower amateur level give up games or matches because they stop what is working and "change it up" for no reason, especially if they happen to lose a point. Usually if I'm winning a lot, I will stay winning, unless I purposefully mess around, because I keep doing what's...

The Allround Evo is probably not the fastest with the modern ball when using conventional rubbers. It wasn't exactly fast with the cell ball either.

As far as I can tell, thinner sponge is less spin sensitive on block and push and tends to not throw the ball as far, so if the OP really likes Dignics 05, that might be a good idea. The smaller sponges exist for a reason but everyone pretends like only the max size exists.

You have those rubbers in your signature, so I assumed you had used it. Either way, I got years out of mine. It was still totally playable when I let go of it. Modern rubbers with much softer compounds probably can't do that no matter how you try. They have a lot more outright topsheet grip and...

Pretty lame ChatGPT summary, but either way, I've also opted to go for this rubber for my backhand for my next setup as I've found one for cheap. I bought a sheet of Vega Europe DF to learn to brush the ball in a more safe way on the backhand, so hopefully this can perform similarly.

The slopes seem pretty different too, although to me it largely seems like lower spin and spin reversal potential = lower slope, and the trend changes become less meaningful as a result. It might be why beginners are suggested to not begin with a 2.2 sheet and instead with a slightly smaller...

I'm talking in absolute terms for any sheet, but yes, adhesion is just an extremely rapid increase in the CF at low loads, which will help effective force a lot at those low loads, although there's only so much it can do because the input load is so small.