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Not sure what the core woods are but Yinhe N series have some blades with thick construction. N8, N10 and N11 in particular

Black tag and no serial number so it is at least 20 years old- black tag with serial started in 2006, silver tag in 2009 according to this MyTT thread: https://mytabletennis.net/forum/butterfly-blade-series-number-made-year_topic74045.html

'Nuff said

Can't help you with that unfortunately

Handle shape and balance. FZD has a slightly wider handle and is a tad more handle-heavy

T5000 has more metallic carbon feeling, arc is more direct, SALC has better arc and softer feeling but I think it is bouncier than T5000. ZJKT5000 on average are much heavier than FZDSALC from what I've seen. I think the T5000 plays more straightforward and honest where SALC can produce a higher...

If you're struggling to clear the net with D09C on Viscaria, I don't think it is the right answer to try a stiffer blade and faster rubber, usually that makes it more difficult to clear the net.

Looks like its stretched for the most part but you also got some wear markings from the contact spot. Nothing to worry about

Pimples showing through the topsheet? Could be wear, could be that the rubber was stretched during application, could be low QC standards for regular Chinese manufactured rubbers. Mercury 2 in particular is pretty cheap and the poor QC of commercial grade DHS rubbers have long been a discussed...

Only tried it for a short time but it felt just fine for a short pips. I prefer more dynamic German pips for single sided penhold but thats just me

I haven't tried either of those blades, but I think it is easily faster than Viscaria family blades, and also might be a bit faster than my FZDSALCs. Wavy has a very transparent and natural feeling, a very crispy impact but it has some softness, but to me it was a bit stiff feeling sometimes...

Thats the area you want to hit the ball with, if its evenly absorbed into the strike zone then I don't see the issue. But its also why you should use thin layers that won't run or drip

For short pips hitting I recommend the round head 987, it reduces power because the head is not as long as the traditional square style head but it increases maneuverability close to the table. The 982 I tried was extremely hard feeling and very heavy, nothing like real Hinoki, but it was really...

If the budget is limited, why bother buying a new blade when the subject already has one? All the Yinhe jpen blades are thick and stiff and good for smashing already, just get him a short pips rubber so he can save and also not have to adjust to a new blade while he learns how to use the pips

How long is semi-long to you? 563 definitely seems very much like a medium-short pimple to me, not half-long like Do Knuckle or 755-2

Interestingly enough, for whatever reason, Garchomp cannot learn Dragon Dance 🤯

Koki Wood is ~6.6mm, regular Swat is ~6mm, I don't think they are very similar. Maybe you're thinking of Swat Power which is also ~6.6mm Regular Swat is much thinner than Clipper, I don't think they are very similar. IMO the regular Swat shares more similarities with Stratus Powerwood and...

I wouldn't really call Bugller a short pip, in terms of behavior it reminds me a lot more of a medium pip because it has a lower friction topsheet designed to kill spin rather than produce it. I felt it was pretty difficult to play with as a lot of my attacking shots fell into the net, at least...

I tried NH8-80P (unboosted) on bh of one of my FZDSALC and I was kind of disappointed. Spin is good but the sponge feels too soft for me. At least its easy to keep the ball on the table. Cut weight with no glue is 51g. Maybe I'll try it on a softer blade to see if it improves the response, but I...