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Sure do! I don't know if they can ship to Chile though.... https://www.ebay.com/str/chicagoveneer

Those threads that GinjaNinja posted contain all of the information you would need to make your own blades - there is a lot of information to sort through, but it would REALLY give you a good idea of how to proceed. Take the time and read through the blade-builder-master-thread that Giangt...

I agree with Der-Echte, VP is a great control rubber for me too. I use it on FH for my OSP (rakza 7 BH) and FH for my homemade limba-limba-kiri (Mx-p BH). I can produce a lot of spin, slow/fast loops without issue, and place the ball exactly where I want on the table. Fastarc G-1 is what I use...

The fiber I'm interested in comes to $75 per square meter, including shipping. In the grand scheme of things, that's not too expensive when you consider the price of a single carbon blade. The issue is, when you start acquiring such a wide variety of materials for blade building, you end up...

Hey Alan (and others), I am REALLY interested in using Innegra S fibers and it's been nearly impossible for me to find it in a low weight (GSM) when mixed with carbon fibers. I can get pure Innegra S in a bunch of weights, but it would have tons of vibration reducing effects, but no stiffness...

Is anyone aware of a table tennis blade constructed using a ply or two of Innegra S fibers? I'm contemplating putting one together - especially if it's never been done before. Fiber in question...

Great points, thomas.pong! This is such a tricky sport to buy equipment for, since I feel the vast majority of players in the US have equipment that exceeds their level. Part of it seems to be due to the minimal price difference between GREAT beginner rubber and great rubber for advanced...

I love Vega Pro. For me, the hardness is just right - vega euro was too soft. I have not tried the primorac, but used the korbel for over a year when I started and found the shape of the wings, where the blade meets the handle, to be uncomfortable (even when sanded). I've been teaching a...

It's gorgeous! How do you personally like the feel of the concave thumb depression? This comment is not to undermine your work, but doesn't Ross Leidy do this with most of his blades as well? What factors are you investigating in this recent test - PU vs epoxy and then Rosewood vs Elm as well...

Hard to give you recommendations without knowing how you play.... Objectively, those are great rubbers (based on reviews and I personally use both of them) and a nice blade (I have not used it, but have heard good things), so many players with the requisite skills and technique would do very...

They're both great, for all the reasons that other people suggested in these threads. I use mx-p on BH on my homemade limba-limba-kiri, rakza 7 on BH on my OSP Virtuoso +, and fastarc G1 on BH/FH on my homemade limba-ALC-Spruce-kiri. At least with my technique, I find Mx-p slightly harder to...

So I finally got around to completing the project I was interested in, just for the sake of seeing if it could be done. Here were the constraints of my project: 1) Build a series of blades only out of woods that commonly grow in Oregon 2) Place an emphasis on using wood that isn't grown at all...

If you took a solid handle and cut it up into strips and glued it back together, I think you'd find that it weighed more... with most woods. In most cases, the glue is heavier than the wood for its volume. Now, with wenge, glue might be lighter than the wood itself, and perhaps they've laminated...

Lots of good points brought up here. To echo what has already been said, I think it's a mixture of: 1. Saving weight and cost by putting only the nicer (and often heavier wood) on the outside - like OSP does with Walnut. 2. Reducing warp by reinforcing with multiple layers of wood and glue. 3...

Did Michael have specific pieces of advice or insightful approaches that really helped him in elevating his game to the next level? And a follow up: Is there any big-picture advice he would give to intermediate/advanced players to focus on for improving their overall game?

Is there a key/legend for those other colors? I would be interested in seeing which other companies have the next biggest market-shares (blue and green colors).

I have a strong backhand shot, and find vega euro unpleasantly soft on the backhand of my maze blade. I enjoy vega euro a bit more than the euro, and enjoy rakza 7 and fastarc g-1 much more on my carbon blades (maze, and self-made limba-alc-spruce-kiri). Harder sponges and grippier rubber work...

Is he using the balsa core larch/mahogany (which is only 85 grams or so), or the 100g+ 7-ply koto/limba/spruce? Either way, I'm glad he's giving you some serious trouble... ;)

That's great! Larch (the outer and medial ply in that blade, opposite to mahogany) is one of my absolute favorites. Glad to hear he's liking how it plays and winning some games.

Great looking blades, as always. I'll be interested to hear how number 4 plays - I really enjoy messing with a single variable (such as glue) and seeing the effects.