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I just add until the viscosity seems right, about 15-20% i guess.

I also use copydex and dilute it with water. Easier to apply and doesn't affect the bond. I also tried a "Huieson" glue i found on ebay, very cheap a pretty good.

The B2. I had several H3N and i don't remember them smelling so bad.

I received my B2 yesterday, gonna try it tomorrow. If i don't like it i'm gonna also gonna stick with the AK47. It's the most awful smelling rubber i have ever tried.

Lightzy, why did you move from the B2 to the AK47Y?

I had good results with two products: Teak oil and Acrylic wax Teak Oil is actually a mixture of oil and varnish, so when it cures leaves a fine protective layer while also penetrating the wood. It is easy two apply, dries to the touch in minutes but it takes about a week to fully cure...

Well, this post is a paradox: A theoretical discussion about the benefits of theoretical discussion :p

Yeah, they are average rubbers, but i still think they are among the best chinese european style rubbers. Also, i think sometimes spin and speed are overrated. Control and consistency are very important to get the opponent out of position and i find myself making very few unforced errors with...

You're welcome ;)

I feel the same way about the yinhe moon, the AK 47 yellow is much better. After 2 training sessions with the rubber on the FH i prefer it to the red. I think it is a more well rounded rubber and fits my style better, the blue on the BH is also perfect. I'm still gonna try the Battle 2 on the FH...

That's the Specific modulus, which is a materials property consisting of the elastic modulus per mass density of a material. If you compare the specific modulus of balsa with, per example Kiri, you will see that it is much larger. But there are factors to consider, wood is an heterogeneous...

Ok, if gaps are not legal then the hollowed core would be illegal. However, i might experiment with that to see the results. Yes, balsa is not very stiff when comparing to other woods but it's very stiff comparing to it's self weight. If the core is thin the blade will be slow, if the core is...

"2.4.5 The blade, any layer within the blade and any layer of covering material oradhesive on a side used for striking the ball shall be continuous and of eventhickness." Ok, they say continuous not homogeneous, i don't quite get what they mean by that. However, this was not the purpose of...

I'm not sure but I think that the rules state that the ply should be homogeneous.

I've started making my own blades. So far i made 2, but they are still missing the handles. That got me thinking on a few things. Has anyone tried these? 1. Making the same blade but with different handle length, or even handles with different lengths on the same blade? Would this work as a way...

I finally had the chance to try these rubbers. AK47 red on the FH and blue on the bh on a DHS H301. The whole setup was new to me but it was quick to adjust. The blue is perfect for the bh and i'm probably gonna stick with it. Drives are good, and it has enough grip for over the table fast...

Tiago Nunes, what blade do you use? Maybe you can try switching the yellow to the FH and get a blue for the BH. The blue is softer and has more catapult, so it is closer to european tensors.

Chen wins 11-4

I got them from ebay (cheaper than aliexpress). You can get them at tabletennis.inters.pl however you will pay double the price plus shipping.

Yeah, my setup with the H301 and two AK47 (red and blue) feels light and balanced, but still haven't had the chance to try it. Just a couple of questions. Did you try boosting the red to soften it? And can you comment on durability? They are very cheap, even if they only last a couple of months...