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I'll keep my opinion on that one to myself :) Cheers L-zr

182 grams is pretty nice, but with a blade weighing only 78g and the rubbers ~52 grams each, its gotta be a bit head have, but its all personal. If it was ~85 grams I would have considered one as well, at that price everything is gotta be perfect :-) Its a beauty, congrats and take good care...

I know its probably very head heavy due to the handle being very light... Cheers L-zr

@Cordell I like this blade too, if it wasn't for the composite handle... but the rest is exquisite... Cheers L-zr

Treated with care they could last a life time. Keep away from moisture and be careful not to hit anything hard and they will last... Cheers L-zr

@JJ Ng The appeal is shooting canon balls when playing a bit behind the table. In a way that is not possible with H3. I do miss that… but the short game drawbacks are just too great. Cheers L-zr

I used to be of the same opinion… until one of my precious SDC blades got ripped by the rubber overhang catching the table top… Cheers L-zr

Your beating a dead horse, the big manufacturers all have the same quality.Some blades happen to be better than others but it’s impossible to tell… The advice I can give is select one with a little thicker top layer but that is still no guarantee… Cheers L-zr

I use a sponge with a cleaner but I really don’t think it matters, but the stickiness needs some time under the protective sheet to come back. Cheers L-zr

The stickiness goes down a lot in the beginning after a few sessions it will almost not decrease anymore. I thing at that time it’s at the right level, you don’t need much to get the of it. If you can lift the ball more than a second it’s too much. After play clean the rubber with water, let...

No, it doesn’t change much, and wood is wood, you can NEVER prevent the risk of splintering completely even with the highest quality. Thinner top layer = higher splinter risk. But the risk can be significantly lowered with a thin layer of varnish with a minimal change of characteristics… Cheers...

When playing you feel the combination of sponge + topsheet, you can’t feel the component separately… Cheers L-zr

I always seal my blades so no I didn’t and no I didn’t notice a difference, but a lot of times I ended up with glue on the top sheet. The glue ends up up on the surface and if you don’t see that it’s a risk you put your rack down right on top of it… Cheers L-zr

There is always a correct racket angle. You need to practice more…. If you have time to smash it wasn’t a challenging stroke really, then just counter with a topspin drive. Cheers L-zr

I used to use the wet method. It works but since you because you need to use more in one go and the glue is “runny” you are probably gonna get glue where you don’t want it… It’s not worth the hassle. To put a little on in layers is better even though it takes longer… Cheers L-zr

Hard topspin’s I always try to get in phase 1 (after bounce while ball still going upwards). Both blocking and hitting. This also puts more pressure on your opponent. Cheers L-zr

The diagram is based on an identical stroke. Usually the higher arc means more grip in relation to speed. Cheers L-zr

Yes, if You like soft rubbers stay away from Glayser, both of them. I find S2 great for BH, both of them. Cheers L-zr

With the same quality components it would last longer, how long… hard to say… Cheers L-zr

Which S2, Bluegrip or Accuda?. Anyway S2 is the sponge. Donic is much softer than Glayser. Accuda has a better feel than Bluegrip, but Bluegrip spins more. Glayser has more spin potential but is more demanding. If You like hard rubbers go Glayser. If not go S2. Accuda is a little easier to play...