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I thought maybe you were trying to just start the rally. Still, an occasional change up looked like it would keep him from anticipating the attack so well

All of your serves is saw were long. Opponent was able to stay a comfortable distance on return

The standard answer (going back to the stiga wrb conversations) is that head heavy blades are better for hitting through the ball (hence the hollowing of handles.) The flip side is that balance toward the handle made for more of a looping feel, with easy topspin.

And also ittf fees are going through the roof. You have to pay to test the colors and then pay to approve them. And then there's play...none of them seem as spinny as even the red, much less the black.

Wd40

Having just gotten both, the asia is on the carbon sponge but china is on a red sponge

I sold it for years as a beginner rubber on the 896 blade. It wasn't tacky

When I carried merc2 it wasnt tacky at all. Or maybe for 1 hour.

I sell a set of illumina for 24 shipped and I think its great for beginners to intermediate

Seriously try wd40

Try wiping it with wd40 and see if some of that wont come off.

What integrity concern, gluing? Snitches get stitches

Im not familiar with those. I wonder if they're the same as w81 inner and outer, rebranded?

are you supposed to tighten your grip when you hit? Just on vs backspin? Nobody's told me that. I always just hear loose as possible I don't think I could time that if I tried

The Euro/Japanese stuff is typically tuned and Chinese is traditionally not, so in that respect there would be. However increasing numbers of Chinese rubbers are tuned. This is more about whether you can use rubber cement or if you have to use latex type glue though. Generally tuned rubbers...

Unless youre trying to play more backspin than top

Sounds good to me

The 1.8 thing was better with the cell ball. I would look at 2.0

All I can tell you is the lower frequency will have more dwell

Waldner carbon. Maybe not with the new ball but relative to the era