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My experience is that all boards are similar when it comes to playing characteristics. I would go for one that has wheels is foldable and as thick as possible. If you are going to use it at home it doesn’t need to be approved for competition (minimum thickness) Any of the tables you ads how’s is...

I have following blades from slowest to fastest: - Yasaka Sweden. (all) - Stiga evolution allround. (all+) - Butterfly inner force alc.s. (off-) - Tibhar.Akkad. (off) - Stiga exclusive off. (off) - Tibhar. 3-9. (off or off+) - Primorac Carbon. (off+) - Yasaka silver 9. (off+) (To me this one is...

I didn't get it, Since most of the subjects never dies (which I hate) I have the habit to always jump to last page. Sorry, I get it now (Hopefully I'll remember) Cheers L-zr

Thats the pain, Its impossible to get an overview of whats for sale. Now You have to go through each post every time.... A page with information like my earlier post would be much better. The current concept is good if You only do personal orders and have nothing for general sale. Cheers L-zr

Hipnotic, Do You have a hompage where Your FS blades are displayed with their characteristics? If not I think You should create one and link from this page instead. Rigth now it a pain to figure out what You still have for sale, Cheers L-zr

Ahhh Waldner from the end days, before they destroyed the game... I really really miss those days... Cheers L-zr

Was it a coffee machine running wild...

The site has been gone for a couple of days now, anybody knows what happened? Cheers L-zr

Those were different times, I am not sure that the old Masters would stand a chance against todays Masters. With the change of ball its a different game now. I myself liked the old game where spin counted a lot more... Cheers L-zr

Thomas, 175g is way heavy for a 10y old. There are lighter blades for kids. I’d recommend using those until - 15yrs. With that a rubber like Mark V (1,5mm), no need for anything more complicated that can wait. Cheers L-zr

If you are a recreational player they may last a long time. The only one that can decide is you. The exception is rubbers that is dependent on surface coating. That usually wear off quick. Cheers L-zr

Exactly "I was thinking, rather than knowing whether it is more important to have good blade or good rubber, it is more important to know what does it mean for a blade or rubber to be GOOD." What I meant was that if You change the "or" to "and" I agree with You 😉, Thats all... Cheers L-zr

Change it to “and” and I’m in... Cheers L-zr

I have seen players using just a blade without rubber, but not seen any player using a rubber without blade... 😜.

I would say a waste. You would at least need an allround blade of a little higher grade such as Stiga Classic or Yasaka Sweden. There are lower grade blades that You could use as well, but I would not recommend it. In reality the blade and rubber is one unit, but I would say the blade is...

You can try Yasaka Mark V.

Rakza 7 soft is one of the slowest (if not the slowest) ESN rubbers. I suggest You switch to a slower blade. Cheers L-zr

FX-P is a little bit harder than FX-S which is a little harder than Rakza 7 soft. For me FX-S is definitely usable (EL-S is a little too hard) I may test that on my Primorac Carbon next. Right now I gonna use my Akkad fo a while. Cheers L-zr

I have now played for some time with the H-3-9 an EL-S rubbers. I found it was too quick on my BH, I lost my confidence. so I reverted back to my Primorac Carbon with Rakza 7 soft. I will eventually try a different rubber on BH. But for now I am trying a Tibhar Akkad with FX-S and I find it not...

Wtf, completely nuts guess who’s gonna have to pay the increased cost...🤮 Cheers L-zr