Search results

I would agree but I’ve had same result on 3 occasions, so I wouldn’t call it a onetime result. But when I get the chance I will see if I have some leftover rubber from the cut, to stretch and show the change in surface

I have gotten the memo that you want to be indenial, but I am telling you that these are tensioned completely different, for what is the same starting point, different procedure. Professionals rubbers being highly tensioned/stretched as well. You clearly do not want to understand or see that...

That is the point of this post? To ask others for their procedure and result, as I can’t just keep opening new rubbers for fun and tests to waste. This is mine after 4x, where 3 that had removed film had same stretched topsheet as visible on the “low” resolution pictures, while all had the same...

Well, I've done 3x procedure of removing protective film and resting on a small bottle cap to allow for maximum stretch with same result as the ones you see on pictures from players - only now tried without removing to see if it kept the topsheet less stretched, which it did. All rubbers started...

I hope you are trolling with this comment after watching my other replies

I can say they feel very different, but you will see this kind of topsheet on almost all the top players rackets, hard to find clear images of them but some examples. *Note at a side angle they will all have a lot of shine

I don't think you understand, I know quality control can affect tackiness, but both rubbers were just as tacky/sticky before boosting.

It is but only slightly, it was sticky like left before boosting, but after matte and grippy like the top picture, the lighting makes it hard to see

One thing I found curious, is peoples results from different boosting procedures. It's very visible that the top professional players are using highly boosted rubbers due to the visible pimples, and after boosting myself, I found that it's easily replicatable, but also comes with tradeoffs...

It’s quite funny to see people having different experiences with rubbers, I also use Stiga DNA Hybrid on BH, and after moving to H, M feels too soft on backhand. You could try to experiment with using a thin layer of booster on it, which will soften the sponge slightly but keep the great...

Bump

I know, it’s not official W968 name, but it gets it’s nickname because it’s a modified Long5 but by national standard. So people usually refer to it as provincial version of W968, as it’s also serialized

That’s incorrect, provincial is just referred to as W968 letters also.

Bump

He usually boosts very hard rubbers, he uses that technique for like 55-60 degree hardness rubbers (J1 - D1, and presumably harder degree H3), I guess it's to add more elasticity. He also sands down his blades (even outer carbon), to make them even faster and more direct, however I don't think...

Have never tried BS 38, but I do feel like it’s probably easily overboosted, so I would just do a thin layer. I would make sure to also remove the protective film before boosting, especially on lower hardness, to allow it to stretch the topsheet more and introduce more tension to make it feel...

Bump

This.

Bump

Bump