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I think that is a typo... those Tackifire numbers were on a different scale, and scales changed a few few times as new rubbers were released.

I agree completely, although strictly speaking, it's an ESN innovation not Andro, and other brands (e.g. Donic) had similar rubbers like this too.

The 'snipe' version I tried had a soft and bouncy sponge. The sheet I tried was fast and very bouncy. Perhaps I got the fastest of the batch, and you got the slowest. :ROFLMAO:

729 Focus III Snipe is very bouncy.

Ahh yes. 'Sponsorship' is the word you're looking for. As others have said already, you really need to think about what you can offer to these companies, so that they can see the benefit of sponsoring you. Sponsorship from retailers is becoming much rarer these days, because retailers know that...

Collaborate on what? Playing, coaching, buying equipment, selling equipment?

Fake sponges or players changing sponges are extremely rare at international level. It's rare at any level actually and only done by an extremely small minority. These 'solutions' will add a cost to every rubber made, and guess who pays for this?

Unfortunately this happens with a lot of new blades from various brand, which is why people seal their blades before gluing on the rubber the first time, to avoid exactly this. I do feel that if manufacturers use these thin or fragile outer plies, they should seal it in the factory. The cynic in...

The factory sealer on those blades feel quite permanent to me, so probably not required to do again. Yes I totally agree with Tyce, just use 400+ grit sandpaper to roughen the surface a little, to help it stick better.

VOC glue is not a good option, because if you apply it to the OX sheet it expands like crazy! Yes diluting is an option, but that also dilutes the strength. I'll check out Rev 3, but again I would wonder if the thinner ones are just diluted so may not be strong enough. For anyone that's glued...

I often need to glue long pimple rubbers with no sponge (OX). I like to use a thin glue to get a smoother finish, because if it's not perfectly smooth it's very noticeable on OX rubbers. I've always used Donic formula first, but I've just realised that this is discontinued, and it seems that...

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this rubber! 10h to break it in seems a long time to me! Why do you think it gets faster after 10h, is the topsheet losing grip perhaps?

Victas VS 401

I think Tony's point is that the one pictured by lodro above does not mention that it's Kiso Hinoki, so it could by any type of Hinoki, and may not play the same.

Butterfly Japan can no longer supply them to their distributors, so it's only old stock that's still sold. Some distributors may have stocked up just before it was discontinued, because there's often a surge of demand when a blade is discontinued.

Is that a crack that's been fixed?

It's hard to test for hardness once they're packaged, but they could weigh them to catagorise them, as softer sponges are lighter. It won't be accurate, but if they could just label them as soft, medium and hard, it will give customers some indication at least.

Probably not for long though, since it was discontinued less than a year ago.

I don't know how you can tell which is the stickier side (the only ones I've used were always labelled on the backing of the sheet), but I would highly recommend you seal the blade before you put the glue sheet on, which definitely makes it a lot easier to remove the glue sheet when you have to.

Thank you, I didn't know Nittaku made one!