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looks like it. His blade seems to have japanese cypress over carbon

Overall don't worry too much about the thinking , as you will get older your brain will slow down anyway and you will be able to play a decent game of ping pong with a constant grin on your face. Enjoy :ROFLMAO:

we have to differentiate between the simple sanding of the sharp edges for comfort and the more drastic sanding , or filing, of the wings which of course will change the characteristics of blade eg. making it more flexible.

I actually do own a very slow feely blade, my TSP/Victas Blockman II but no matter how hard i tried i never managed to find out what woods are used in the laminates.

Eyes - brain - muscles ........... If it is a repetitive pattern there are still some cognitive aspects involved but I would not call them "thinking". I use my eyes for observing the opposition so i can react to the changes he/she invariably makes.

Neee, I leave the heavy hitting games to the young'ns 😂 ..........or big brutes like yourselves.

Thank you my friend, this of course will bring us to the next question : At what price is a Hinoky blade a real Hinoki blade ??? Or with other words : will a NZ $ 65 single ply Hinoki blade from eg. Stuor or Sanwei give me the "real feel" or does it have to be something really expensive ?

so it would be like adding water to an old bourbon ? 😁

Weeeeell, at least they are advertised as such 😁

hehehe, once you add 12 layers of booster and glue things get real weighty 😫

The only reason i want to buy it is that I am interested to find out what the 2 layers of hinoki will feel like in comparison with koto , Limba , ebony etc etc and all the other outer layers i got in the house already. Will there be a distinct difference and will there be some of the...

no limits, there is no reason for it.

I read that the carbon layers are mainly increasing the sweetspot of a blade. Can you either confirm or deny this ?

good advise, it always worked for me 😁 Or, with the words of the late great Frank Zappa : I know when I'm licked - all over !

I only ever use the cheap ones from china. They are sticky, very sticky on both sides. When I remove the rubber it is to throw it away ,not to re use it on another blade. If the gluesheet remains on the blade i have no problem, my blades are all sealed . I take a thick kitchen tissue and lay it...

i would not bother, it is not the cleaner that keeps the tackiness it is indeed the clear plastic covers applied to the rubbers after cleaning just with water and drying. And forget the sponges too, they are too rough. Use the palm of your hand to wipe off the water or the inside of your lower...

In reality I now use some round white "price-stickers" , they are only 18mm in diameter. sure it sounds different but it is a very small target and I don't hit it very often. 😁

Indeed, for target practice I use 2 short pieces of white masking type and form a cross.

I need my Hurricane 3 BS to be more elastic. ...............then why even buy H3 ?????? 😂 Buy some elastic Tensor rubbers or at least some of the hybrids