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My method is to now glue any commercial H3 on my blade without boosting because one really can not tell anymore what hardness it is . After this initial "cold run" I then decide how much boosting (if any) I feel is needed. I cut my rubbers with scissors and leave a generous 3-4mm overhang...

OK, i get it now. You are trying to make me believe that the top veneer of the blade de-laminated because you did not have the edge-tape . Right ???

what am i supposed to see ?

Naturally there are restrictions and one of them relates to the flatness of the blade. Others have already made suggestions how to fix the little damage so all I feel like saying is that after the glue has dried block-sand the the spot that has been repaired. I would use 280 or 320 grit lightly.

thanking you kindly. Yes, this makes perfect sense (y)

Ohhh, i sure want you to be happy ! 😁 as you seem to be the expert please help me understand what is ""keeping the tension in a rubber"". I understood the idea of a matt on a trampoline , the tighter it is stretched the more the bouncy effect, right ???? Now what has got me befuddled is...

I have just ripped a virtually brand new 999 from a blade because it just did nothing for me. Me buying the rubber was a bit of an act of nostalgia and because they are dirt cheap at Aliexpress. I am talking about the version with the white/creamy sponge. May i suggest a Loki rxton 3 pro as a...

No it is not

Hehehe 😂 The problem with old farts is that they easily get confused . Loki and their ever expanding range of rubbers and blades is showing clear signs of "fartism". More is not always better and the qualitative inconsistency problems made me turn away from Loki.

You are not wrong but the minimal surface-only effect is so minimal that the balance is still guaranteed. With other words one might well end up having purchased a decent , well balanced blade but had to pay double the price for a useless gimmick 😂

Yep, that is about all it needs 😁 In my efforts to prove that "asymmetrics " are bollocks I went as far as making a quick "knock-up" having on the "fast side" a 3mm thick sheet of carbonfibre and again the identical rubbers on both sides. And still there was only a subtle difference. QED

It is too late for all the wisdom mate, she already has it in the Catalogue for sale. She should have asked you first 😂😂😂

Andrea, I am currently playing with 2 blades that are, as you call it , asymmetric. One is the DHS-G and the other a STUOR copy. They are both excellent blades and the basic idea is OK. Of course it has to be said that not only ALL Professional players but even many ordinary club players...

You will be alright and positively surprised at the quality you will get. There are a lot of snobs around that will always try to make you believe that unless you spend hundreds of dollars on a pro blade you made the wrong decision. I will not even ask you what level you play the game but...

I second that. Just because some chinese brands are dirt cheap in comparison to other countries prices we can still get very decent quality blades out of aliexpress. (y)

Yes 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂😂😂

Next time you watch a TT-match watch the playing arm of the top players. See, the play arm is always much more muscular then the other. If you buy a blade like the pros are using then you should also develop the muscles to use it properly. 😂

For a moment I thought you were going to cut somebodies throat, that would only take seconds 😂 😂 😂

fair comment but once one has got the skills one can do all that also with a $5 blade from china 😁

No ping pong in my youth, we had sex ,drugs and Rock'nRoll though 😂