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It'll do that without being boosted too. Weak Norisuke-san glue + not enough of it + overhang. :) EDIT: These are factory-boosted versions, though, so I guess there is some light boosting.

If the gluing isn't perfect, it can curl a little bit. My unboosted Battle 2 does that.

Igor seems to have misplaced his medication.

Honestly I disagree. The adjustment time between the sponge hardnesses is a couple of minutes. The reason people buy a harder or softer sponge is to optimize the playing characteristics for their abilities. I don't think he is planning to buy a new sheet every day. I would not EJ at all at this...

Then you know what to use.

Backhand rubber is really player-dependent, there are so many valid ways to strike the ball in terms of tactics and biomechanics. You can do well with any of those. As far as I understand, D09c and T05 are a bit more spin-biased, while MX-P is a bit more speed biased.

If you're not super experienced then it's not that difficult to adapt to it. You will definitely need to use a "Chinese" (or, correct) backswing, you can't get away with incorrect mechanics like a lot of people use with tensioned rubber, making tiny little crooked-arm pokes at the ball. That...

Either. Orange is cheaper always, so go for orange first. Blue sponge seems to have a stiffer sponge, so it will allow more efficient power at high racket speeds, but it can be hard to spin the ball at low racket speeds or with fine contact. You will play exactly the same with either of them if...

There's likely a density difference and thus a force curve difference too although the % delta is likely not the same as the mass one. It can be hard to tell which part is lighter or heavier; the topsheet, sponge, adhesives, booster, mold treatment etc etc.

Slower compared to tensors, sure. Even when boosted. I'm comparing stiffer sponge to less stiff sponge on the same rubber. Of course nobody knows the absolute exact performance curves so there can be some situations where it's different. QC being better means it's closer to what you're buying...

It really depends on the exact normal speed and what axis you're hitting the opponent's spin and how heavy the opponent's spin is. Probably there is zero realistic throw angle difference as throw angle within very similar sponges is almost entirely a function of the pimple length, thickness...

The measurable difference on BS and OS is probably very low. BS is just a stiffer spring due to higher density at the same surface hardness, not much more to it. It won't make any difference to a beginner; it'll just feel a bit faster. It's made to be a forehand sponge because the forehand tends...

Commercial H3N or commercial Battle 2, or Provincial blue sponge Battle 2 if you can get it on an aliexpress sale for just a little more than the standard one, but don't buy it if it's more than a couple dollars more expensive. Those rubbers are effectively the same for someone your level, and...

Things are starting to fall into place now. I'm getting some backspin serves to come back into the net, although still very inconsistent. Also hitting some of my staple big shots now, including one schnasty RPB powerloop onto a long backspin serve, lol. Progress is honestly much faster than I...

MX-P is a much more advanced rubber than H3. Normally you'd work up to MX-P from rubbers like H3. A lot of people start with Chinese tacky rubbers simply due to cost reasons. You can switch to whatever whenever, the only way to try it is to try it. If it makes sense depends on your play level...

Get a 5 ply wood blade and go back to more beginner oriented rubbers until you can perform all of the techniques from every distance and timing that they can be used in, and you have developed one or two of them to be very strong relative to the others. I think using high performance equipment...

While we're at it, maybe remove short serves entirely, and to make it more fair, maybe make it against the rules to put spin on the ball as well.

A website with measurements and outer dimension silhouettes where you can overlay blades to eachother would be ideal, like how some exist for gaming mice.

If you already used it and didn't like it, then yeah, I'd probably go for those. I will be trying both of those myself, the silver package 39deg and the 37deg Special both on the forehand at some point this year.

I don't know how big the difference is because hardness doesn't directly correlate to spring stiffness, and it shouldn't be super big, but it interacts with the topsheet and pimples themselves, so it's never that simple. It seems to be noticeable usually. The right one is the one you feel...