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He would probably be pleased to see how much love we put into bringing the old blade with his name back to life.

I haven't personally seen it, but we recently got a blade from that era for repair - a Stiga Erik Lindh. Those black and gold labels on the handle look absolutely stunning!

We received a W968 blade for repair with a crack in the handle. We repaired it, but during the repair process, we discovered a 0.4 mm misalignment in the blade thickness! That's a lot. Near the handle, the blade is 5.5 mm thick (measured outside the repair area), and near the edge, it's 5.9 mm...

Hello everyone! Since we receive many blades of various designs for repair, I'd like to share with you their photos and factual technical specifications. We also sometimes have questions about why the manufacturer designed something the way it did. Perhaps you guys have some insights. Well...

I also noticed that not all balls work equally well in a cold halls - some break down quickly

We can make the same blade for you. If you are interested, please write me a private message.

The legendary Fantômas is back! We created this blade using only Kiri wood, which has a low density and weight. The surface is covered with hard and incredibly heavy eucalyptus, allowing the blade to penetrate even the hardest rubber and accelerate balls at maximum speed. Another interesting...

I've been wanting to try Turbo Blue for a while, but the weight is intimidating. How much do your rubber weigh when cut? In principle, I have a blade with a very low balance and a small head (150x157mm), I could try PC This post is exactly 1000 on this forum. It's probably not a coincidence...

Hi, Lodro! I used the Jupiter 3 in black and red, both at maximum thickness and 39 sponge hardness. There's a slight difference between them—the red rubber feels stickier and produces more spin, but on the Harmony, there was a noticeable difference.

This blade is from the Flight Line series. The classic five-ply construction limba/limba is reinforced with soft carbon. In short play, the blade is controllable and feels like solid wood, while the soft carbon makes a real difference in powerful shots - the ball flies faster and the return is...

Another asymmetric Harmony, this time with a limba surface, straight handle and lighter weight. Blade Parameters: Speed - Off-/All Composition - 7 layers, 5 wood, 2 carbon. Head Size - 158x151 mm Weight - 81.7 grams Thickness - 5.8 mm Handle - Straight 30x23x102 mm Balance - average Frequency -...

The frequency is the same on both sides, but the ball's bounce height is different, when you hit a ball on a blade without rubber, and this is much more noticeable on the koto than on the limba (we did Harmony with limba on the attacking side, I'll send some photos later). There are also...

This is a combination Attack/Defense blade from the Harmony series. It allows for powerful forehand attacks and reliable backhand defense. On the attacking side there is a fairly hard koto and powerful carbon immediately below it, on the defensive side there are two soft veneers and soft carbon...

Hi everyone, I just wanted to share some photos of the blades which we do

Start doing it, and the results of your work will begin to give you advice :-)

It's best to use 0.5-0.6 mm thick ayоus veneer. In my experience, this thickness is usually enough. If it's not, you can easily add second layer of veneer. Balsa is very soft and will definitely change the overall feel of the blade.

Hi! I simply like the G1 on the backhand, especially on blades with a limba veneer on the surface and a layer of carbon underneath two layers of wood. On a blade like the Viscaria, with an outer koto and carbon just below the koto, the G1 feels hard for the backhand, but at the same time, it's a...

Hi, @CyNyC! In my opinion, this is normal. Each rubber will perform optimally on a specific blade type.

We called this gluing method "nipple." This was used only with VOC glues, so that the solvent wouldn't evaporate immediately, but would instead soak the sponge as much as possible and soften it. This gluing method is unnecessary for water-based glues.

The limba we're currently using has a density of 0.461 g/cm³, while koto has a density of 0.480 g/cm³. The difference in weight isn't significant, but the difference in hardness and playability is very noticeable.