Be honest guys: you don't need carbon blades

[jk1980]

Hmm just proves me that they make the same mistakes as me so no point in playing 5ply allowed blades. Thanks for the clarification.

Just had a peek at that video and knowing how Lukas plays this is not really representative. Lukas is a show man and not really interested in improving and his opponent here is clearly looking out of his depth when i see how he effortlessly fails to loop simple backspin balls.
Lukas was in a quite good position 3 years back when he played for his old club. He played in the 2nd or 3rd team and had great veterans in the club that told him how to actually exercise to become better. He refused to and continued his show boating ways and finally surrendered to the challenge of that very club (union velbert) to join a more "social" club where he could play the "big fish" in the pond instead of being in a club where there are probably 10 players that are clearly better than him. So to put it simply one in this match (Lukas) does not want to play better and rather show off and the other (his opponent) simply can't do better.

The few experiences i have witnessed regarding the dutch league were not very promising. i.e. a young woman that plays in the first league of the netherlands losing nearly chanceless against a visitor from turkey who was rated arount 1500 TTR iirc. That was really embarassing.

 

[Tyce]

I've gone back and forth on this particular topic quite a bit, and I'm at a crossroads now.

I think my all-wood blade (Korbel Jap) is great, but the combination with H3 is quite demanding and as someone who doesn't train 5x per week I just don't have the physique to git gud with it.

On a carbon blade (Pro 01) using H3 is much better. It allows me to keep using the spinny characteristics but with a good bit more punch. I'd have to slow down the backhand side though.

So do I need a carbon blade? Not necessarily, but I do need something to add punch to my FH.

I'm trying to pick between the options: H3 on carbon, with probably C-1 on BH, or G-1 on Korbel, and I think the same C-1 on BH.
For both options I'll need to currently invest a similar amount of money so that's not the issue. Its really picking between philosophies.

 

[Yurifi]

interesting topic ... I mean, most of my competing career I played with carbon or arylate blade. not, because I would need the speed, far from it - actually, blades were OFF or even OFF-, but I like the feel that carbon or especially in Moonbeam's case, arylate gives. it dampens the vibration and sharpens the feel of the blade. when I started playing again after cca. 20 years of hiatus, I first started with all-wood, because I had exactly the same thought - I will be playing for fun and I don't need carbon blade. and started with OSP Expert, which is amazing blade. but not for me. I then used Avalox BT777, which is extremely fast, but something was missing. then my dad gave me Axelo, and yes - it was way too fast, but it had that familiar feeling, and I said - well, it must be the carbon. and it is. I have TMXi now. it is fast, but far from fastest. but I think that the TMX layer gives the blade this unique character, this great sharp feel and also enormous sweet spot which is great because I am not as precise and not as fast as I used to be.

I think bigger problem is rubber selection. which are really really fast lately. especially the trend with harder rubbers. Dignics9c, Donic C1/C2, not to mention A1 and A2, Omega 8 Pro and China ... yes, they are great rubbers, but you need to play every day with it, these are demanding rubbers. I was on this train too. thought to myself - ok, all the best players are playing with them, these are good rubbers and I will be able to play great table tennis. but I can only manage to play 2-3 times a week, and one of those is usually the regional club league. we play some decent table tennis, but ... do I really need Dignics9c? Donic C1? to be a "weekend warrior"? no. so I jumped of that train. I got myself Vega Pro Hybrids and are great. I think many people play not just with unsuitable blade, and to make things worse - they add some superfast rubbers and everything is out of control ...

 

[olive-nguyen]

Not sure of anyone had pointed out on hinoki here yet.

my first non pre-made was a carbon blade, yinhee 988 jpen. adapted quickly but realised after switching to my new(er) miyabi 1 ply hinoki i had to really get my stroke right and short game became much better. Also, with the recent few weeks i have put a lot more effort in playing, about 3 hours a day 3 out of 5 days in the week. Actually, everyday except days having to stay back late for CCA and Champs-English writing programme in my school for merit students.

The new bat with tensor really makes me have to put inn the strength to play loops from far. Not having a training partner means that how i train is that i stand about 8-10 meters from the table and dropping the ball on the ground, i put lots of strength to brush and loop it over the net, making sure i use enough power so that there is that hinoki crack sound and you can really see the ball arc down. Contact of the ball at waist level.

i do similar things with my backhand, using RPB and TPB. Having issues with getting the ball over the net at such distance with RPB and unable to make the bat “crack”. However this training may have been a bit over, as my pec is starting to really hurt and started bruising yesterday afternoon. Practicing this for about 45 mins to an hour, before half an hour on serves, and later playing on the ground against the wall to hopefully build footwork.

 

[Matt Hetherington]

Yes I do 🤣 I haven’t used all wood since 2005 and once you switch it’s very difficult to change back

 

[NetProphet]

The thing about composite layers is that they make it easier to keep the blades more consistent. My fastest blade is actually an 9 layer all wood blade...
Two of my slower blades are Donic Appelgren WC 89 and Nittaku SC-Z, and they are both outers...

It simply does not matter, just play with the blade you like and forget about the rest...

Cheers
L-zr

That's the Yasaka Silverline 9 Wood then!
I have it too and stuck two old Tnergy05s on it, it's a hoot!!

 

[NetProphet]

I've gone back and forth on this particular topic quite a bit, and I'm at a crossroads now.

I think my all-wood blade (Korbel Jap) is great, but the combination with H3 is quite demanding and as someone who doesn't train 5x per week I just don't have the physique to git gud with it.

On a carbon blade (Pro 01) using H3 is much better. It allows me to keep using the spinny characteristics but with a good bit more punch. I'd have to slow down the backhand side though.

So do I need a carbon blade? Not necessarily, but I do need something to add punch to my FH.

I'm trying to pick between the options: H3 on carbon, with probably C-1 on BH, or G-1 on Korbel, and I think the same C-1 on BH.
For both options I'll need to currently invest a similar amount of money so that's not the issue. Its really picking between philosophies.

Try an Inner ALC. I think you'll find that extra bit of pop without having to give up much. FZD ALC was too much for me but I'm more consistent with the Innerforce ALC that I was with the Nittaku Acoustic.
Might be worth a go for you?

 

[Lazer]

That's the Yasaka Silverline 9 Wood then!
I have it too and stuck two old Tnergy05s on it, it's a hoot!!

I think your right, I got Rakza X on mine. I think it’s way stiff and fast…

Cheers
L-zr

 

[rbtitco]

I've gone back and forth on this particular topic quite a bit, and I'm at a crossroads now.

I think my all-wood blade (Korbel Jap) is great, but the combination with H3 is quite demanding and as someone who doesn't train 5x per week I just don't have the physique to git gud with it.

On a carbon blade (Pro 01) using H3 is much better. It allows me to keep using the spinny characteristics but with a good bit more punch. I'd have to slow down the backhand side though.

So do I need a carbon blade? Not necessarily, but I do need something to add punch to my FH.

I'm trying to pick between the options: H3 on carbon, with probably C-1 on BH, or G-1 on Korbel, and I think the same C-1 on BH.
For both options I'll need to currently invest a similar amount of money so that's not the issue. Its really picking between philosophies

I've gone back and forth on this particular topic quite a bit, and I'm at a crossroads now.

I think my all-wood blade (Korbel Jap) is great, but the combination with H3 is quite demanding and as someone who doesn't train 5x per week I just don't have the physique to git gud with it.

On a carbon blade (Pro 01) using H3 is much better. It allows me to keep using the spinny characteristics but with a good bit more punch. I'd have to slow down the backhand side though.

So do I need a carbon blade? Not necessarily, but I do need something to add punch to my FH.

I'm trying to pick between the options: H3 on carbon, with probably C-1 on BH, or G-1 on Korbel, and I think the same C-1 on BH.
For both options I'll need to currently invest a similar amount of money so that's not the issue. Its really picking between philosophies.

U tried euro rubber on Ur korbel yet?

 

[Tyce]

U tried euro rubber on Ur korbel yet?

That's one of the options, yeah. I have switched the ak47 to FH to try but it's quite weak there.

I've also bought and sold an impulse buy of a Waldner Senso with G1 on FH and C1 on BH.
That bat is pretty similar to Korbel and it played OK even if it is a significant change.

I've just given my H3 sheets their final reboost, hope that's enough for now. But by season end in a few weeks I want to have a decision

 

[Tyce]

Try an Inner ALC. I think you'll find that extra bit of pop without having to give up much. FZD ALC was too much for me but I'm more consistent with the Innerforce ALC that I was with the Nittaku Acoustic.
Might be worth a go for you?

I liked the general idea of inner fiber on the Yinhe Pro 05, but the blade is pretty chunky and head-heavy for my desk-job physique. I'd love one that's a bit thinner and balanced weight.

 

[_ak]

I liked the general idea of inner fiber on the Yinhe Pro 05, but the blade is pretty chunky and head-heavy for my desk-job physique. I'd love one that's a bit thinner and balanced weight.

Butterly Innerforce Layer ALC is well balanced and on https://en.butterfly.tt/ you can ask for a desired weight for extra 5 euro fee.
It plays well with Chinese rubbers, however I couldn't find a good balance on BH side yet, C-1 is a bit too tame, Glayzer and R7 become like cannons. So for now I play more with DHS B2, which has a bit bigger head and a bit more head-heavy but also a tad slower and flexier.

 

[NetProphet]

I liked the general idea of inner fiber on the Yinhe Pro 05, but the blade is pretty chunky and head-heavy for my desk-job physique. I'd love one that's a bit thinner and balanced weight.

Yes, I've also noticed the weight distribution makes a big difference.
One thing to say about physique though, but a set of dumbbells. With just 15 minutes a day with light weights you can double your strength in 3 months. That's strength not size.
Some simple exercises daily can make an enormous difference. It won't really make a head heavy blade feel any better but in terms of stamina it's unbelievable!!