Chinese Blade for BD 39 + Yinhe Moon 12

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How has your experience been with the unboosted 39 on the short game and FH looping?

Where do you think it falls short for you?
Do you mean Big Dipper? I actually liked it, especially that it still allows playing with thin contact when needed.
Short game is good enough, possibly worse than tackier rubbers but still fine. Also it's quite easy to send very long, fast and low push, not the easiest ball to loop.

It's still pretty easy to shoot a long ball out with little spin when angle is a bit too open, Glayzer 09c is more forgiving here often making the ball still hitting the edge.
 
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Sorry, haven't read all the replies. But based on the first couple of posts, I would go for a 7 ply all wood blade. Something like Yinhe Pro-537 (I'm biased, as I'm using this). But basically just something without carbon, but faster than a 5 ply. A Clipper like, if you want.
 
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yinhe- u2 is the most played Blade for beginners to intermediate advanced players,i believe.
But there are a lot of allwod blades out there,I myself love the Waldner offensive 2016 or the old Banda Waldner.
Person Powerplay,Primorac or Korbel,a lost of stike blades.
I play the Butterfly Kiso Hinoki V and it is the best 5 ply i ever played so far,but i am a 2 winged looper.
I would look into the Venners and composition of all those blades and try what is best suited for your general style.
There are so much differences in wood combinations,which feel do like the most?Limba,Koto,Walnut,etc as top ply,which cores you feel at best for your Style? like Kiri,Ayous,balsa,etc..
 
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So my friend has a DHS N301 (pen holder) with the H3 Neo Boosted on FH.

Which between Inner 75 or F3 Pro or another sub-$40 option would work that is closer to 301 in characteristics?
Loki Telson power seems like a budget attempt to DHS 301 (grey koto top, inner carbon) the series look of great quality for the price. Maybe give it a go. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256806732447992.html
Screenshot_20240704-152359-480.png
 
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I have a couple of these blades and I play (currently) DHS H3 Neo 39degrees on both FH and BH. I also have these rubbers on other blades. I would go back to the basics: Do you want a hard or a soft top wood? Are you a Limba, Walnut, Hinoki, or Koto person? Then look at the speed table (at this link). I feel that it gives a good impression of the overall speed of the blade (minus the soft to hard difference of the top layer).
Specifically:
* Fextra 7: Two top Limba layers, very jumpy and fast (1400Hz). Harder to control than the slower blades. Many people I know who have it like it. No longer in production, Sanwei has a Fextra One FL.
* Yinhe 537: Top Walnut over Limba (1400Hz), and thick (6.7mm). Good control but heavier blade.
* Yinhe 437: Limba/Ayous (1400Hz). Softer top than 537, same weight/thickness/speed.
When you order a 537 or 437 you may get the "S" (later) version which is slower (e.g. my 437S is 1270Hz).
* DHS Fang Bo 2: ALC inner, Limba top, plays very nicely, 1320Hz.
* DHS Fang Bo 2X: Same but faster (>1400Hz), thicker core, similar weight, same handle.
* Yinhe Pro 01 (similar to Viscaria, Koto top external ALC, 1485Hz) or Pro 05 (similar to Ma Long's blade but KLC, Limba top internal KLC, 1356Hz ;-) ). There are other Pro versions now.
So there are lots of options in the sub $50 space. Handle shapes are also different so I would test-drive the blade before buying or just buy it and give it away if you don't like it.

For all wood blades I like the Yinhe U1 VB (no longer in production) which is a slower 7-ply Limba top blade.
Due to technical difficulties I actually play the Victas Swat which is my slowest blade (thin, soft 7-ply Limba/Ayous top, 1150Hz) in tournaments.

Also the rubbers matter a lot, my unboosted H3 Neo 39deg. is slower/less jumpy than e.g. the Big Dipper and much less jumpy than the Tenergy 05, so I think the B2/B2X, Pro 01/05, for me would go better with the H3 Neo than the more jumpy rubbers. Also the Big Dipper is tacky (the new H3 Neo's are less tacky) which is another factor to consider.
 
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I have a couple of these blades and I play (currently) DHS H3 Neo 39degrees on both FH and BH. I also have these rubbers on other blades. I would go back to the basics: Do you want a hard or a soft top wood? Are you a Limba, Walnut, Hinoki, or Koto person? Then look at the speed table (at this link). I feel that it gives a good impression of the overall speed of the blade (minus the soft to hard difference of the top layer).
Specifically:
* Fextra 7: Two top Limba layers, very jumpy and fast (1400Hz). Harder to control than the slower blades.
* Yinhe 537: Top Walnut over Limba (1400Hz), and thick. Good control but heavier blade.
* Yinhe 437: Limba/Ayous (1400Hz). Softer than 537.
When you order a 537 or 437 you may get the "S" (later) version which is slower (e.g. my 437S is 1270Hz).
* DHS Fang Bo 2: ALC inner, Limba top, plays very nicely, 1320Hz.
* DHS Fanb Bo 2X: Same but faster (>1400Hz), thicker core, similar weight.
* Yinhe Pro 01 or 05: Koto or Limba top, external or internal carbon-containing layer, 1485 or 1356Hz.
So there are lots of options in the sub $50 space. Handle shapes are also different so I would test-drive the blade before buying or just buy it and give it away if you don't like it.

For all wood blades I like the Yinhe U1 VB (no longer in production) which is a slower 7-ply Limba top blade.
Due to technical difficulties I actually play the Victas Swat which is my slowest blade (thin, soft 7-ply Limba/Ayous top) in tournaments.

Great post, thanks a lot for your insights.
I'd like to add another 7ply allwood:

Sanwei V5 pro

It has harder than Limba Ash outer plys.
It's lighter than some of the 7ply woods but faster relative to its weight.

My 83g one feels as fast as my 95g Fextra 7.
 
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I have a couple of these blades and I play (currently) DHS H3 Neo 39degrees on both FH and BH. I also have these rubbers on other blades. I would go back to the basics: Do you want a hard or a soft top wood? Are you a Limba, Walnut, Hinoki, or Koto person? Then look at the speed table (at this link). I feel that it gives a good impression of the overall speed of the blade (minus the soft to hard difference of the top layer).
Specifically:
* Fextra 7: Two top Limba layers, very jumpy and fast (1400Hz). Harder to control than the slower blades.
* Yinhe 537: Top Walnut over Limba (1400Hz), and thick. Good control but heavier blade.
* Yinhe 437: Limba/Ayous (1400Hz). Softer than 537.
When you order a 537 or 437 you may get the "S" (later) version which is slower (e.g. my 437S is 1270Hz).
* DHS Fang Bo 2: ALC inner, Limba top, plays very nicely, 1320Hz.
* DHS Fanb Bo 2X: Same but faster (>1400Hz), thicker core, similar weight.
* Yinhe Pro 01 or 05: Koto or Limba top, external or internal carbon-containing layer, 1485 or 1356Hz.
So there are lots of options in the sub $50 space. Handle shapes are also different so I would test-drive the blade before buying or just buy it and give it away if you don't like it.

For all wood blades I like the Yinhe U1 VB (no longer in production) which is a slower 7-ply Limba top blade.
Due to technical difficulties I actually play the Victas Swat which is my slowest blade (thin, soft 7-ply Limba/Ayous top) in tournaments.

I would add Fextra 5, under $15.
Used it to assemble a racket for a clubmate.
With only Chinese Aliexpress Stuff for under $50 and it is a great racket.
Thick and comfortable FL handle.

Yinhe Pro 05 I can attest for.
It has a great handle but it had no "low gears", at least in my experience.
Great for Looping and attacking, but passive shots were difficult.
It's always at least on medium fast speed.
Which would sometimes be uncomfortable for my level at least, but it's a great looping blade nonetheless.
Quality, Feeling, Price, Design, Handle.


Any of the Branded Inner Fiber blades from Aliexpress are definitely worth it and made for a looping style.
 
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Wow, I didn't see this blade for ages. I used to play with it, it was quite fun with the old ball. Open the 3rd ball and relax, it was very difficult to block.
yeah you have to get used to the Hinoki ,more active blocking than passive.The "trampoline "or "Tensor" effect from Hinoki hast to be accounted for,but it also depends on the whole setup,so i found it easier to block with harder sponged rubbers.
Most times you overshot or blocked into the net?Cause the new Hybrid Rubbers are pretty good with Kiso,I didn´t think i had the Gears in myself to play the A1 cause of the hardness and speed,
But it tamed the Hinok effecti a bit for me so it plays pretty Linear considering Hardness and Flex.
But You can generate pretty unbelievable shots if you use the Spin potential with this setup,you are spin sensitive from Incoming spin,but if you brush or get the point of impact well,there is a good chance for counterlooping.
I love when you can overpowr the spin of the enemy or use the incoming spin for good placement.
If you still have it you should try one of the new Hybrids with it,I am pretty satisfied with the A1 especially and like the normal Glayzer a lot on bh,but i will try maybe the g09c on bh when the new season starts and I will try to get a single ply blade for the nexxt season.
But passive blocking is hard with it,or you are not in a good placement position.
 
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So an update on my 2nd time playing random matches for three hours on my new setup: BD 39 (FH) + Moon 12 (BH)+ F3 Pro

Big Dipper 39 (FH): My plan in these random games was to predominantly play/test FH loops. Honestly, it was such a success even if I lost games to people I never lose to. I used to get so many off the table before and I was easily able to hit 75%-80% which is a new high for me. The quality was okay as I am still trying to improve my technique/footwork. I felt like I could loop almost any ball, and that me missing was a the result of poor footwork, positioning, anticipation or FH whip. Very good in the short game as well.

I also felt its weakness in flat, weak hits mid-distance away from the table (which just went into the net)

Yinhe Moon 12 (BH): I was mostly trying to FH loop everything so this didn't get much of a run-around but I am still a little confused on how I can use it. The few BH loops were okay speed, nothing crazy and it was stable if nothing else on the pushes. Maybe it is my own BH issues but if anything, it has just been okay

Sanwei F3 Pro: Really enjoying the blade. Light, can really feel it help on the FH.

Seeing some of my shots from the other day, the next step is honing the FH and getting a bit more quality on the loops
 
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Are you using Medium hard Moon 12 blue? I've seen many people talk about how it is awkward to use.

I tried both medium hard and medium soft and felt medium soft is a lot better for backhand. Very easy to use but with good spin.
Speed is 15/20% less then high end fast tensors.
Spin is high, similar to my trusty DNA pro and my current bh rubber, Goldarc 9.

I'd recommend Moon 12 soft over Rozena or other semi cheap rubbers.
 
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Hello everyone!

I came back to Table tennis after 10+ years and have been playing for a few months now with Donic Powerplay Persson + Xiom Vega X (FH) + Xiom Vega Europe (BH). I am an early-intermediate player with the following likes/strengths and dislike/weaknesses

Likes: Decent FH looping
Dislikes/very weak: Serves and serve returns

My form is okay if not perfect and as an adult, I am trying to get fit for the game and wouldn't mind a physical game.

I recently tried a friend's DHS Hurricane (boosted) on the FH and thoroughly enjoyed the spin and its short game. I now want to test out cheapish a transition-to-Chinese-rubber setup. After going through lots of threads here during work, I seem to have landed on Big Dipper 39 on FH and Yinhe Moon 12 on BH to ease me into Chinese hybrids. (shoutout to @TensorBackhand @Michael Zhuang !)

Now my question is what is a good cheapish, can-be-bought from AliExpress blade that would pair these rubbers. I am looking to take this setup into a solid mid-to-high intermediate rating.

Any and all suggestions appreciated!
I don't think you have to go Chinese with the blade. I was using the DHS 301X with Hurricane. I figured out, that it was too fast for my level. Too many "easy" faults on floating balls. Finally, a colleague gave a Tibhar Illusion Killer to me - and it was perfect. I got so much more control. And on the other hand, the balsa core of the blade gives a kind of kick effect, if you put power to your stroke.

Even it's an old blade, you still can get a new one for 59 Euros.
 
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Are you using Medium hard Moon 12 blue? I've seen many people talk about how it is awkward to use.

I tried both medium hard and medium soft and felt medium soft is a lot better for backhand. Very easy to use but with good spin.
Speed is 15/20% less then high end fast tensors.
Spin is high, similar to my trusty DNA pro and my current bh rubber, Goldarc 9.

I'd recommend Moon 12 soft over Rozena or other semi cheap rubbers.
Yeah, it is the medium-hard.

I am going to settle on this until these rubbers run out; hopefully I can snag Palio ak red and a medium soft Moon 12 come 11.11.
 
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Update 2:

So I am reaching the 3 month mark on using BD 39 + Moon + F3 Pro setup. Following are my thoughts playing roughly 4 hours a week.

Big Dipper 39 (FH): I have been focusing on predominantly improving my FH technique during this period. And I am happy to report, my loop success % with good technique has really gone up. I have attempted fitness work along with fixing my technique so whether it it is all down to BD; I am not sure (technique > equipment holds)

I will say though it is a fantastic rubber, very confidence inspiring. I really do believe I can loop almost all balls with this rubber and any failing is because of a lack of footwork + technique + timing issue. It still has tackiness (I clean and put covers after every session) and seems to be holding up great.

On the cons side: Need to be active with the blocks + dust magnet + You/your shot acceleration has to provide majority of the power. Two of these cons are honestly areas of game improvement for me

Yinhe Moon 12 (BH): I have become primarily a FH looper so I don't use the BH as much. Though I will say in the last couple of weeks when I have used it a bit more, I am finally beginning to enjoy the control it gives. My timing on my BH has been an issue generally but when my timing is good, it feels really nice.

Not too much spin, not a lot of power but controlled.

Sanwei F3 Pro: I can really feel the activation on the blade when I hit a good, powerful shot. Not an expert EJ-er so cannot speak more to the nuances but really enjoy the feel of the blade. I always feel in control.

Overall: The overall setup is a little slow but I believe that is gated by my inability to access power. Next goal is to grow as a player improve power from the setup by improving technique/timing/stroke acceleration improves.

For a early intermediate player trying to play a FH loop oriented style, I highly recommend this setup. It definitely aids in creating the conditions for more consistency and better placement.
 
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