How does blade influence gameplay?

[chiz]

I have picked out a combo for you:

Blade: Donic Waldner Allplay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Donic-Waldn...rsportarten_Schläger&var=&hash=item3a99c745b7

Classic All to All+ 5 ply blade. Get it in Flair handle unless you are a twiddler. I have bought blades from Stiga, Donic and Galaxy and the Donic blade had the best finish and the most comfy feeling handle. Too bad I didn't know any better and bought it in Straight because I thought that it would be a good idea.

FH rubber: Palio Amigo http://www.ebay.com/itm/Palio-Amigo...tarten_Saiten_Beläge&var=&hash=item4189bc838e

I have used this rubber and this is probably the best cost/performance FH rubber that I have seen. Low throw angle makes it very good for short play and for learning proper forehabd tecnique. Very spinny for serves and has a medium sponge. It's a bit of a mix between a chinese and european rubber. It's cheap enough for you to test. The low throw angle may take some getting used to but it's great for correcting your stroke if you don't bend down enough. I could create ungodly amounts of spin for serves with this rubber with the slightest of movements.

BH Rubber: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stiga-Mendo...rsportarten_Saiten_Beläge&hash=item3cebf96d85

Stiga Mendo. Supposed to be similar to Mark V but cheaper. Mark V is incredibly awesome on BH. Even Ma Lin used Mark V on BH until the speed glue ban.

For the Palio Amigo: I like to loop away from the table, wouldn't that pose a problem due to the low throw angle? Also I saw that it is a non-tacky rubber. How can it be spinny if it's not tacky?

For BH: I like to receive serves using the banana flick, any good rubber for that? p.s: I know it's mostly about technique but I want a rubber that would allow me to execute it more comfortably.

 

[Kaizoku]

For the Palio Amigo: I like to loop away from the table, wouldn't that pose a problem due to the low throw angle? Also I saw that it is a non-tacky rubber. How can it be spinny if it's not tacky?

http://www.tabletennisdb.com/rubber/donic-bluefire-jp-03.html <- Is rated [FONT=segoe ui, sans-serif]"[/FONT]Completely non-tacky" Yet, it has amazing spin.
"The very grippy, taut but elastic top surface rubber produces maximum spin when top-spinning and fantastic control" meaning it can be grippy without being tacky, the definition of tacky ->
http://prntscr.com/57kex8 <- It's the stickiness of the rubber.
I personally prefer the less tacky rubbers.

 

[chiz]

http://www.tabletennisdb.com/rubber/donic-bluefire-jp-03.html <- Is rated "Completely non-tacky" Yet, it has amazing spin.
"The very grippy, taut but elastic top surface rubber produces maximum spin when top-spinning and fantastic control" meaning it can be grippy without being tacky, the definition of tacky ->
http://prntscr.com/57kex8 <- It's the stickiness of the rubber.
I personally prefer the less tacky rubbers.

I guess that's what I'm looking for then, spinny but non-tacky as tacky collect dust too easily.

 

[anchorschmidt]

For the Palio Amigo: I like to loop away from the table, wouldn't that pose a problem due to the low throw angle? Also I saw that it is a non-tacky rubber. How can it be spinny if it's not tacky?

For BH: I like to receive serves using the banana flick, any good rubber for that? p.s: I know it's mostly about technique but I want a rubber that would allow me to execute it more comfortably.

It's definitely slightly tacky. German websites listed it as being slightly tacky and that coincides with my experience. If you are more than 2 meters behind the table then, I would agree that it's not the best rubber for looping from that distance. Maybe get Mendo on FH as well?

Rubbers can create spin using either tackiness or elasticity or a combination of both. My FH rubber is completely non-tacky but opponents have trouble against my spinny forehand loops.

Regarding the bluefire: That rubber is faster than the rubbers that you have currently. Keep that in mind.

RE banana flick: No idea which rubber you would need exactly for that. Top players are doing that stroke with their european non-tacky rubbers and not their hard tacky chinese rubbers so the Mendo could be good for it.

 

[chiz]

It's definitely slightly tacky. German websites listed it as being slightly tacky and that coincides with my experience. If you are more than 2 meters behind the table then, I would agree that it's not the best rubber for looping from that distance. Maybe get Mendo on FH as well?

Rubbers can create spin using either tackiness or elasticity or a combination of both. My FH rubber is completely non-tacky but opponents have trouble against my spinny forehand loops.

Regarding the bluefire: That rubber is faster than the rubbers that you have currently. Keep that in mind.

RE banana flick: No idea which rubber you would need exactly for that. Top players are doing that stroke with their european non-tacky rubbers and not their hard tacky chinese rubbers so the Mendo could be good for it.

I don't want to go for a too fast setup as I don't want to fork out more money due to wrong choices. Regarding the banana flick I do manage to do it with Chinese rubbers(I only used that) but the 'feel' isn't there

 

[Rajah*]

I don't want to go for a too fast setup as I don't want to fork out more money due to wrong choices. Regarding the banana flick I do manage to do it with Chinese rubbers(I only used that) but the 'feel' isn't there

You can go for an all around blade.. a slow one so that later on you can mix and match with better rubbers

 

[Kaizoku]

Tbh, the Donic Bluefire Jp 03. Is not that fast, and it has superb control (the slowest bluefire Jp rubber) although it has reasonable speed I would not say by any means it's too fast for anyone (unless you have an all out defence play), yes, it's faster than his current Rubbers, but considering one of the blades he might change to;
I would concider it to be an ensured and pleasant choice. Though, I just used it as an example to explain tackiness (as it's one of the Rubbers I use) with that said, the price is also a con vs the mendo.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Look, why don't you get the budget special otherwise known as the Der_Echte special:

The Der_Echte Special

Yinhe Galaxy 896 blade (approx $16.00 USD)
BH: Dawei 2008 XP Power Sponge (approx $8.00 USD)
and if you want to go super cheap get that rubber for both sides. If you want something good for the FH get:
FH Tibhar Aurus (approx $50.00 USD)

The blade is better than the price they charge. Dawei 2008 XP is better than the price they charge and Aurus works pretty well on that blade as a forehand rubber.

With the Aurus it is under $75.00 before shipping. With 2 2008 XP rubbers it would be $32.00 before shipping. That would be a fine blade to start with.

 

[chiz]

Look, why don't you get the budget special otherwise known as the Der_Echte special:



Yinhe Galaxy 896 blade (approx $16.00 USD)
BH: Dawei 2008 XP Power Sponge (approx $8.00 USD)
and if you want to go super cheap get that rubber for both sides. If you want something good for the FH get:
FH Tibhar Aurus (approx $50.00 USD)

The blade is better than the price they charge. Dawei 2008 XP is better than the price they charge and Aurus works pretty well on that blade as a forehand rubber.

With the Aurus it is under $75.00 before shipping. With 2 2008 XP rubbers it would be $32.00 before shipping. That would be a fine blade to start with.

My current setup is
Blade: From pre-made bat
FH: HN3
BH: HN3

Although I can play decently with that, I'm looking to improve the setup in regards to the points discussed previously.
I'm looking for a better blade that will give me a better 'feel', rubbers that have a softer touch, I like to feel the ball digging into the sponge.

My way of playing:

I try to loop/attack anything that comes to FH. I have the tendency to play away from the table (around 1m max). I like to receive serves using the banana flick. Apart from that my BH is weak and almost non-existent during play.

 

[chiz]

I used to play with this pre-made bat before http://pingpongove-palky.heureka.cz/stiga-amaze/ and I think I played much better than now. I don't know if it's because of the blade or the rubber but I'm willing to give a similar custom setup a go. But I don't know what combination could give me a similar racket.

 

[anchorschmidt]

My current setup is
Blade: From pre-made bat
FH: HN3
BH: HN3

Although I can play decently with that, I'm looking to improve the setup in regards to the points discussed previously.
I'm looking for a better blade that will give me a better 'feel', rubbers that have a softer touch, I like to feel the ball digging into the sponge.

My way of playing:

I try to loop/attack anything that comes to FH. I have the tendency to play away from the table (around 1m max). I like to receive serves using the banana flick. Apart from that my BH is weak and almost non-existent during play.

Though I haven't tried the Der_Echte special, I do think that the setup that I recommended will serve you well. The Palio rubber takes a week or two to break in and is softer than H3N.

I can see what you mean. I know a Berzirksliga player who also coaches. His students transition from Sriver to Sriver G3 FX (FX is softer sponge in Butterfly lingo) and then later on to Tenergy or Bryce once they become really good. They don't start off with hard rubbers as well.

Though the Banana flick is not a regular part of my game, I managed to backhand loop against backspin 5 times in a row while a chopper was trying to get me to step around. It worked pretty wel.

In the end, it's your decision.

 

[chiz]

Though I haven't tried the Der_Echte special, I do think that the setup that I recommended will serve you well. The Palio rubber takes a week or two to break in and is softer than H3N.

I can see what you mean. I know a Berzirksliga player who also coaches. His students transition from Sriver to Sriver G3 FX (FX is softer sponge in Butterfly lingo) and then later on to Tenergy or Bryce once they become really good. They don't start off with hard rubbers as well.

In the end, it's your decision.

I heard that it's possible to make HN3 softer by tuning/boosting?

 

[anchorschmidt]

I heard that it's possible to make HN3 softer by tuning/boosting?

I haven't tried that. There is definitely an appreciable speed increase. Maybe someone more experienced in this regard can answer this.

 

[chiz]

Though the Banana flick is not a regular part of my game, I managed to backhand loop against backspin 5 times in a row while a chopper was trying to get me to step around. It worked pretty wel.

I'm sure skill must have been the most important part
What rubber did you use?

 

[anchorschmidt]

I'm sure skill must have been the most important part
What rubber did you use?

Mark V in Max

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

My current setup is
Blade: From pre-made bat
FH: HN3
BH: HN3

Although I can play decently with that, I'm looking to improve the setup in regards to the points discussed previously.
I'm looking for a better blade that will give me a better 'feel', rubbers that have a softer touch, I like to feel the ball digging into the sponge.

My way of playing:

I try to loop/attack anything that comes to FH. I have the tendency to play away from the table (around 1m max). I like to receive serves using the banana flick. Apart from that my BH is weak and almost non-existent during play.

Here is the thing, if you want a blade that is really good and has really good feeling, most of the time you have to pay a lot. The Galaxy 896 blade is the cheapest thing that is as good as it is. Is it great: NO. But if you are good, it is more than good enough. Der_Echte is at least 1900 (USATT rated) and he can rip people apart with that blade, that $8.00 rubber on the backhand, and Aurus for his forehand.

If you want something nice, for the most part you need to spend over $100.00 for just the blade.

Like you could try a Nittaku Acoustic, that is a great blade but it is $165.00 USD.

Some less expensive options for blades that are still pretty decent are:

Avalox P-500
Stiga Offensive Classic
Stiga Allround Evolution (I love this blade about $40.00 USD; better than almost anything you can get for under $100.00 in terms of feel and control; the downside, it is delicate, you don't want it to accidentally come into contact with the edge of the table when you serve or something).
Stiga Tube Allround (another great blade but it is getting harder to find)
Stiga Energy Wood (a bit too light and has a WRB handle but it plays nicely)

Anything else that is really good costs a lot. So to keep the whole setup under $100.00 without using something like the Der_Echte blade is pretty hard to do. Possible: but it won't be what you are describing as what you are looking for.

In which case, you could probably just keep the wood (blade) that you have and just get rubbers that better suit you.

Because, if you get a blade that is more than $40.00 and want to keep the total cost under $100.00 you are handicapping yourself unless it is something like the Der_Echte special.

That is what is seems like to me at least.

 

[chiz]

Here is the thing, if you want a blade that is really good and has really good feeling, most of the time you have to pay a lot. The Galaxy 896 blade is the cheapest thing that is as good as it is. Is it great: NO. But if you are good, it is more than good enough. Der_Echte is at least 1900 (USATT rated) and he can rip people apart with that blade, that $8.00 rubber on the backhand, and Aurus for his forehand.

If you want something nice, for the most part you need to spend over $100.00 for just the blade.

Like you could try a Nittaku Acoustic, that is a great blade but it is $165.00 USD.

Some less expensive options for blades that are still pretty decent are:

Avalox P-500
Stiga Offensive Classic
Stiga Allround Evolution (I love this blade about $40.00 USD; better than almost anything you can get for under $100.00 in terms of feel and control; the downside, it is delicate, you don't want it to accidentally come into contact with the edge of the table when you serve or something).
Stiga Tube Allround (another great blade but it is getting harder to find)
Stiga Energy Wood (a bit too light and has a WRB handle but it plays nicely)

Anything else that is really good costs a lot. So to keep the whole setup under $100.00 without using something like the Der_Echte blade is pretty hard to do. Possible: but it won't be what you are describing as what you are looking for.

In which case, you could probably just keep the wood (blade) that you have and just get rubbers that better suit you.

Because, if you get a blade that is more than $40.00 and want to keep the total cost under $100.00 you are handicapping yourself unless it is something like the Der_Echte special.

That is what is seems like to me at least.

I got some suggestions like Galaxy W6, Donic Allplay series and Stiga Allround. you have any experience with them?

Note: I know I have to fork out $ for quality stuff but right now I'm just trying to improve my current blade and I do think that around $30 should get me something that has better feel and control than a blade from a pre-made bat.

 

[Pnachtwey]

I wish I could afford 12-14 paddles

What do you define as "slow" or "fast"?

You are probably a student. I was a pathetically poor student at one time too. Study, things will get better.

Slow and fast are relative terms an truth fully, I am not calibrated nor are the TT manufactures that rate their blades. I still think the Firewall Plus is faster than ALL+.

In the end what will work best is the equipment you feel most comfortable with and practice a lot. The equipment is not as important as skill. The 896 and XP2008 recommended by others will probably be all you need for a while.

 

[chiz]

You are probably a student. I was a pathetically poor student at one time too. Study, things will get better.

Slow and fast are relative terms an truth fully, I am not calibrated nor are the TT manufactures that rate their blades. I still think the Firewall Plus is faster than ALL+.

In the end what will work best is the equipment you feel most comfortable with and practice a lot. The equipment is not as important as skill. The 896 and XP2008 recommended by others will probably be all you need for a while.

I just graduated and just started working but I still can't fork out hundreds of $ on TT equipments(at least not now).
896 vs W6, Which would be better? I'm not talking cost-wise, I can afford both.

 

[chiz]

Yinhe Galaxy 896 blade (approx $16.00 USD)

What about the dwell time with that blade?