Looking for an extremely tacky rubber.

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That seems really tacky. How about the non-Neo version? Is it as tacky? I read this review a while ago and the rubber seemed very interesting.

By the way, this is the state of my current G888 after about 8 months of playing with it. I literally have to force the ball to drop.
View attachment 31840
How did you maintain this level of rubber tackiness for so long? Usually my tacky rubbers lose this level after a short time of playing (especially after a few cleanings)
 
says Fair Play First
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TACKINESS ETERNAL.
Double Fish suceeded in developing an unique rubber formula, the tackiness will last for years.
It is an innovative rubber composition far different from DHS rubber formula. Give it a try, my dear.

WHY DF APPLYING THE "ETERNAL FORMULA" ON VERY FEW RUBBERS.
Note, DF only employed the "eternal formula" for a certain rubber brand. It stands for the reason that you can't make decent money with the "eternal" products, you need a quick turnover on market to gain profit enough to your full satisfaction of course.

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Just go with H3 and pray that it's tacky. Even if that isn't tacky, you will at least get a strong speed/spin of the H3. My less tacky H3N samples were more aggressive and produced better "killer shots", while the tackier versions had more control and accuracy.

My experience in the last 15 months:
- Commercial H3 Neo - extremely tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - semi-tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - barely tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - very tacky.

Jokes aside, you can't tell whether your sample will be very tacky or not. But from what I've seen, Commercial/Provincial are usually more tacky. Same for Jupiter 2/3, some are very tacky, some are barely tacky. And yes, I keep my rubbers under protective sheets.

Video: this is the tackieness of my H3 Neo National Blue:
 

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How did you maintain this level of rubber tackiness for so long? Usually my tacky rubbers lose this level after a short time of playing (especially after a few cleanings)
Sorry for the very late response. I haven't been on the forum for a while.

Maintaining the tackiness was actually quite easy. After each session, I cleaned the rubber with only a few drops of water, dried it with a sponge, and then covered it with a plastic sheet until the next session (I pressed the sheet against the rubber strongly so that it stuck to the surface completely). This not only maintained the tack but increased it as well.
 
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Just go with H3 and pray that it's tacky. Even if that isn't tacky, you will at least get a strong speed/spin of the H3. My less tacky H3N samples were more aggressive and produced better "killer shots", while the tackier versions had more control and accuracy.

My experience in the last 15 months:
- Commercial H3 Neo - extremely tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - semi-tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - barely tacky.
- National H3 Neo Blue - very tacky.

Jokes aside, you can't tell whether your sample will be very tacky or not. But from what I've seen, Commercial/Provincial are usually more tacky. Same for Jupiter 2/3, some are very tacky, some are barely tacky. And yes, I keep my rubbers under protective sheets.

Video: this is the tackieness of my H3 Neo National Blue:
Thanks and sorry for the late reply.

It seems like we can only go for provincial or national versions and hope it's tacky.
 
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I can confirm Victas Triple Double Extra is tacky like hell.
Once you're there you're stuck for ever
Yeah Victas TDE is cray. Nice rubber too, very hard, the sound alone could intimidate most opponents 🥹
What about its playing characteristics? It would be great if you could give me information about its

1. Spin potential (in lower-end shots and in higher-end shots) vs Hurricane 3
2. Speed vs Hurricane 3
3. Performance on flat shots and blocks

Thanks.
 
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1. Spin potential (in lower-end shots and in higher-end shots) vs Hurricane 3
2. Speed vs Hurricane 3
3. Performance on flat shots and blocks
1. High, depending on the technique comparable to H3
2. H3 > TDE
3. Flat shots are difficult, better to do speedy spin smashes; blocks are more challenging than H3, if done actively then better. i.e. not hitting the net.

The weight is quite high, higher than H3.
Also, TDE needs more body movement and active Chinese style playing techniques than H3.
The rubber is "deader" than H3.
 
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1. High, depending on the technique comparable to H3
2. H3 > TDE
3. Flat shots are difficult, better to do speedy spin smashes; blocks are more challenging than H3, if done actively then better. i.e. not hitting the net.

The weight is quite high, higher than H3.
Also, TDE needs more body movement and active Chinese style playing techniques than H3.
The rubber is "deader" than H3.
And also less gears if I remember correctly, i liked it in short game and full power, but can be a little deceiving in the mid gears compared to H3N.
It’s also a bit brittle, but you don’t need to boost it.
 
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1. High, depending on the technique comparable to H3
2. H3 > TDE
3. Flat shots are difficult, better to do speedy spin smashes; blocks are more challenging than H3, if done actively then better. i.e. not hitting the net.

The weight is quite high, higher than H3.
Also, TDE needs more body movement and active Chinese style playing techniques than H3.
The rubber is "deader" than H3.
And also less gears if I remember correctly, i liked it in short game and full power, but can be a little deceiving in the mid gears compared to H3N.
It’s also a bit brittle, but you don’t need to boost it.
Thanks... seems quite interesting.
 
says Fair Play First
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PERFECT IS THE ENEMY OF GOOD.

1) Dr. Konrad Tiefenbacher, a learned engineer tribologist, did unveil the fact that too much adherence between rubber and the ball would affect your performance adversely. This is to say you will be a happy player to keep up with non-tacky rubbers.

2) How do I know how much adhesive capability for different rubber materials.


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