Problem with Yinhe sponge

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Hi guys, so lately I've been trying out Jupiter 3 and Moon Speed on my BH and found out that these rubbers tend to not stick with the glue too well, especially the Moon Speed. I don't often remove the old glue layer when reglueing my rubber so this weird property is cumbersome, and it get worse when you have a blade that is prone to splintering. My Fan ALC completely coated with glue each time I tear out my Moon Speed, so has anyone came across the same problem or it's just me getting a "bad" one?
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says Fighting the EJ bug again...
says Fighting the EJ bug again...
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1) Seal your blade to prevent splintering. Butterfly blades ought to be factory-sealed, but it never hurts to add an additional thin layer, and even factory-sealed blades need re-sealing after several times of gluing and removing rubbers.

2) You can buy these rubber "eraser" things to help remove glue from the blade (e.g. https://tabletennis11.com/en/tt-neottec-glue-remover-sponge). It's not perfect but better than your fingers.

3) After trying several glues I'm fully committed to the DHS No.15 fan club. No other glue comes off the blade so cleanly and can be removed from a variety of sponge types without damage. The Xiom carbo-sponge for example is notoriously fragile; even Revolution No.3 would tear up chunks of it. Not so with DHS No.15. It's a little messier, but I'll never look back. I've used it on Moon 12 Blue with no problems.
 
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1) Seal your blade to prevent splintering. Butterfly blades ought to be factory-sealed, but it never hurts to add an additional thin layer, and even factory-sealed blades need re-sealing after several times of gluing and removing rubbers.

2) You can buy these rubber "eraser" things to help remove glue from the blade (e.g. https://tabletennis11.com/en/tt-neottec-glue-remover-sponge). It's not perfect but better than your fingers.

3) After trying several glues I'm fully committed to the DHS No.15 fan club. No other glue comes off the blade so cleanly and can be removed from a variety of sponge types without damage. The Xiom carbo-sponge for example is notoriously fragile; even Revolution No.3 would tear up chunks of it. Not so with DHS No.15. It's a little messier, but I'll never look back. I've used it on Moon 12 Blue with no problems.
Thank you for your advice, I've never try sealing my blade before though, in your experience how long will it be before a blade need to be re-seal, and does sealing the blade affects feeling?
 
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Same thing with J3A and (from the first signs of it) with BD5.
yea, weirdly how I only have this problem with Yinhe, I've played through Loki, DHS, 729, Sanwei, their rubbers "eat up" the glue pretty well, even for older gens Yinhe like Mercury 2, Earth or BD1, BD2 I don't get this issue
 
says Fighting the EJ bug again...
says Fighting the EJ bug again...
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Mar 2025
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Thank you for your advice, I've never try sealing my blade before though, in your experience how long will it be before a blade need to be re-seal, and does sealing the blade affects feeling?
I only use 1-2 thin layers so it does not change the feeling. You have to apply several layers to harden the blade enough to feel it.

As for how often to re-seal, in my experience after maybe 4 or so rubber changes. When I can start to feel the raw wood again after taking a rubber off is when I re-apply a thin layer. The wood goes from feeling dry and smooth to slightly soft from absorbing some moisture from the glue. The change is most noticeable on koto in my opinion; limba seems to "hold" the sealant longer, but that's just my feeling. It takes less than 5 minutes to apply and only has to dry for a day at most before you can glue so it's easy to add into your gluing routine.
 
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You can check beforehand. The Yinhe rubbers that come with glue preapplied are the ones that come with an "extra film" on the sponge side. I usually glue a lot of rubbers and those are my favourites exactly for that reason. I don't have to wait for the glue to dry on the rubber XD
 
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