You've been given some great advice here, and frankly I can't add all that much to it. Rakza 7s are a very solid starting point as far as rubbers go (if a little heavy) and an all-wood blade (be it from nittaku or anybody else) is also an excellent starting point.
Two things I would add though (which haven't been discussed) are:
1 - Blades have their own speeds, just as rubbers do. Avoiding carbon is a good idea for now, as IMO it will interfere a bit with you laying down accurate muscle memory. But if you go with too fast a blade, the same thing can happen, even with an all-wood blade. I would recommend an ALL+ to ALL + speed blade ideally, with an OFF - being about as fast as you should consider with your current rubbers.
2 - I would try to find a blade with as linear a speed response as possible -- this usually means choosing a blade where the core and medial woods are either identical or else don't differ hugely in their density and hardness.
As you dive deeper into TT and blades in general, you'll find the composition of different blades is going to vary hugely. Many blades out there (including many of my own) will feature three or more different species of wood in them, graduating from soft and light in the centre to hard and solid on the outer layer. Blade makers do this because each species of wood has its own particular inherent speed and set of mechanical properties to it, and the blade smith is using those differences to create "gears" in the blade, just like the gears in a car.
The harder you hit the ball, the deeper the vibrations and impact energy goes into the wood, and the more the playing characteristics of these deeper woods comes to the fore.
As a Bladesmith, when making a blades that have multiple different wood species in them, you are basically trying to create a blade that behaves a certain way depending on the strength of your shots (this whole process is a bit like an engineer deciding the gear ratios of a car's gearbox -- get it right and the car has enough power in all circumstances. Get it wrong and you end up having to rev the engine either less or more in certain circumstances to compensate).
With a blade, light strokes mostly engage the outermpst layers of your blade, medium shots engage the outer and medials layers combined, hard shots engage all layers in the blade from the surface to the core, and very hard shots engage all the blade's layers including the medials and outer layers on the far side of the blade.
High speed, high performance blades are like a sports-car gearbox attached to a powerful motor. The blade's wood layers (and the playing gears they create) are optimised for a fast powerful engine (ie: the fast powerful rubbers mounted to the blade, and your optimised swing mechanics that drives that power).
Rakza 7 rubbers are a good all-round rubber that can operate well on either an ALL or OFF speed blade, so there's no problem for you there.
However, if you are using a blade that is geared for fact acceleration, then the fact you are using a slower rubber is going to be partially offset by the gears of the blade, which will be forcing the rubber to accelerate quickly. This translates as you having great control in the short game, but having rapidly diminishing control the harder you hit the ball, due to the speed jumps involved as the impact forces reach each different layer...Not an ideal situation for a beginner.
If you choose a blade with fewer wood species in it however, your slower and medium gears are going to be a lot closer together -- you're going to get fewer big jumps in speed as different layers of wood come into the impact response mix. Layers of similar or identical woods in a blade will usually have very similar density and rebound speeds to them (ie: also called their reaction property or popping catapult). This means the increase in speed your blade provides will be much more linear with smaller gaps between each 'gear'.
This gives you more control as you accelerate the ball during transitions from the short game to driving, from driving to looping, and looping to smashing. This is a far more desireable situation for a beginning player, as the vast majority of unforced errors occurr at amateur level when people are changing gears, and accelerating play.
Long story short, in the Rakza 7 you have a good, reliable all-round rubber with good control and moderate levels of speed. You want to mate that moderate performance profile to a blade with moderate jumps in speed and a linear impact response, where the force you put in is proportionate to the speed you get out. An all-wood blade with a largely homogeneous composition is far more likely to provide this for you.
Hope this is all helpful to you. Best of luck with it 🙂🙂
