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17yo, Chinese penholder, inspiration on Xu Xin style. I practice 3x week for 4h30min and 3x week for 2h30, physical training 2x week. Saying this for you understand the people who reviewing this rubber. Using this about 2 months on FH on a Hurricane HAO, 5ply all wood, very thin and flexible. I will talk about the general first, then some specific points.About hardness:I believe versions 40 and 41 compare to the hardness of the Gewo Nexxus EL PRO 53 Hard. But the 39deg version is practically a 50deg on the European scale, if I compare my Skyline with my GoldArc 8 50deg, it has the same hardness.About speed: this is definitely not slow, or super slow, it just doesn't "jump" like European rubbers. It's not bouncy, it doesn't have its own speed and mechanics like most tensioned rubbers. But that's not exactly a problem, go ahead.So let's talk about this rubber.The most important part here is learning to spin the ball by brushing it, not hitting it, you can spin the ball simply by hitting it with European rubbers, not with this one.Be aware that if you're looking at this rubber, you're going to need to focus a lot on learning how to brush the ball. And now comes the part that I put as con and as pro. It depends on your own strength, that means it doesn't have a strength limit, if you spin correctly according to the force you put in, the ball goes in, and why spin correctly? Because if you hit hard without spinning it will certainly be a flat hit and the ball will go out. That's the pro, the rubber really converts your power and the ball can go really strong.But what's the con? Remember I said that rubber isn't super slow? So, now is where that comes in. If you don't put your strength but put spin on it, it will go relatively well with good positioning, it won't go strong or fast, but it will go relatively well. And you start to settle for that, with a "mushy" ball. It goes linear, it goes with a lot of spin, it doesn't go slow, but it's not fast and it's not strong, it's just another ball on the table.And well, to have a strong ball, you need to give your 100% all the time. If you give less than that, she will be much weaker. You MUST have good footwork, you MUST have good weight transfer. And you need GOOD technique, you need to know the right time to do a smaller movement using more forearm and you need to know the right time to do a full stroke using more shoulder and triceps using less forearm snap. And for counters, you MUST do strenght to COUNTER, actually COUNTER THE BALL.Watch a lot of Chinese technique videos, when you go practice, try to practice with a coach as much as possible and focus on your footwork and leg and hip strength. My forehand really jumped after I started using this rubber, I'm not the one saying that, but everyone around me told me that my forehand is actually much stronger and I'm playing much better. Good luck

Hands down one of if not the best looping blade in terms of price to performance ratio. The standout attribute I feel right away when using this blade for the first time is the superb feeling of the ball and excellent controls, both with FH and BH. An innerforce-ALC type blade with Koto outer, it is medium stiff on the top ply but you don't get any of that when driving... I reckon it's proper when said to be HL5's little brother with only 1/3 of its price. If you come from an outer carbon blade, be aware that the speed will seem a bit 'shackled'... whilst the manufacturer rated it as an OFF++ blade, I really think its at most an OFF-/OFF blade (I reckon the OFF++ rating is when you activate its top gear due to its power linearity, aka swinging full stroke + activate the carbon inside).That being said, imparting spins are crazy easy with this blade - I used a hard Chinese rubber on FH (unboosted at that time, stupid me lol) and people are finding the spins too immense to block... But, blocking is not as easy- you need to be active, at least impart a short stroke in the block otherwise most of the balls will just get to the net no matter how fast it comes at you. However, for counter-looping, loop-killing, this blade is a beast. Backspin multiball training is a breeze for me due to its medium-flex and sufficient dwell time.Average weight of the blade should be around 89+- 3 grams, mine is 94g but feels relatively fast and lightweight. Thickness is 5.9mm. Looks ideal quantitatively.Comes in a nice silver box, wrapped in plastic (blade face is PLAIN, the 301 text writing is on the plastic! lol)Please do yourselves a favor, SEAL this blade (and any other blades you use really) before first time use because the top ply gives you the feeling that it can splinter a lot when regluing.(Have to admit, DHS's QC is not near 'top' brands like Butterfly, even Yasaka is a lot better imo).This is a blade I will heartily recommend to beginners (who already know the basics of TT), and intermediate players who are developing techniques as they go up the ranks. People who are physically strong-armed can also benefit from the control factor of this blade (due to its innerforce structure). I suggest to couple this with a Chinese/tacky FH rubber and a Euro tensor BH rubber, a versatile combo.

i've been using this robot for the past year now. This robot really shines as the price is more friendly and there are alot of functions on it. it'll prob take u a month to try out all the settings so it's def worth it.hope this helps!!!

Raksa X is an excellent forehand rubber, grips the ball very well and gives you great rotation qualityShort game is very good and is great for counter topspinblocks and hitting high balls are the cons of this rubbergreat price/performance ratio

I play this on a Waldner Senso Carbon blade in red, max. A bit more linear than a Tibhar MX-P. A great Off to allround play rubber. Good spin but not monster spin. But overall a totally good rubber for amateur players with a clear controlled feedback. I think its a rubber you cant do wrong to try. Too fast for a beginner player though!

Bardzo fajna deska, jeżeli chodzi o granie półprofesjonalne. Znakomite czucie i kontrola przy blokowaniu. Do atakowania również dobra, można przyspieszyć okładziną. Ja na FH gram Stiga DNA PRO M a na BH Yasaka RAKZA 9.

Hello here is my first review for MX-S rubbers , got two sheets of them with maximum 2.1 mm sponge attached them on my old stratus powerwood blade, considering that i upgrades from softer rubbers ( andro rasant bh, dhs hurricane 8 mid-hard) first of all, after the first hold and first few balls i found that the blade is really heavier than before, stratus PW notorious for head heavy, and also mx-s are one of the heaviest! giving the whole combo good power when playing with good technique and fast full movement, the main problem till now is that i am not finding myself well yet, i dont have the same control as before for BH, MX-S is not forgiving at all, u should play very good technique to get sth from this rubber, till now i can't generate that enormous spin that i heard about, the spin i generate is good , almost like the one with DHS or fastarc G-1 , but it is harder to obtain that amount, i didn't find mx-s as very fast rubber, it is just speed enough when u play good technique, if you play passively this rubber is almost dead, noting that i am using all-wood 5 plies blade.. the best thing so far with this rubber is the serve recieve and small touches.. it's so controllable with good feeling to place the ball in desired spot while keeping it short.. i played for 4 sessions till know, the rubber needs to be cleaned to maintain its grip quality, i think i need to develop my physical skills to fit this rubber more.. and hope i will decode its secrets with more training sessions.

Mostly use it for outdoor fun. The touch of this blade is great, easy to use for short games. But it lacks power when I'm away from the table, but more possibly it's me not the blade

In general a great and classic one.

I don't understand that so many players still think this is a super fast blade. That is really weird. Speedwise I would put it in the (lower) off range. It's first and foremost a blade that supports a close to the table/mid distance topspin game. It was made for that. It has a woody, natural feeling to it,. The carbon only kicks in when you hit hard or when you block powerful shots from your opponents. This blade is very balanced indeed. I would recommend it to anyone who loves 5-ply allwood blades but looks for something that is more stable in blocking and counter spinning (especially with the 40+ plastic ball). The only down side is the price, apart from that, it's a really good blade.

Plays very similar to T05. A little less spin but also less spin sensitive because of it. Has a softer feel however.

bought in a promotion of joola. It came with a net and a box of balls. It was the best thing I did, I can train like no opponent can, especially topspin against defensive players. The Underspin that the robot can achieve is superior to any human being. The materials used are plastic, but I really appreciate it. it is a very light robot and fits anywhere. It looks fragile but in reality it is a battle tank. It stays in the trunk of my car and it has never broken down, believe me it jumps a lot in the trunk hahahahaha. It's just right to shoot the balls and no deviations. In addition to training, you can compare material from table tennis, blades and rubbers. The capacity of balls a can be changed if we stick a plastic around the part that is up

When placing the balls we have to be careful not to enter directly into the place where the balls are thrown, it can get stuck, just turn the wheel a little bit which controls the entry of the balls. Nothing a person doesn't get used to. I recommend this robot to anyone who wants to spend a little money. I'm not going to mention that it oscillates, that it has a remote control, etc. because that's in the product description!

The only disadvantage is that the ball is slightly slower than DHS’s ball, apart from that it is flawless. Way longer lasting than Butterfly’s 40+ ball, so much so we’ve stopped using them at our club.This ball is a must buy!

I would agree with most of the reviews here. But i needed to add something:Yeah this rubber needs technique and is slow in itself. This is something many of you should already know about a comparable rubber, like the Hurricane 3. So what are we doing with the Hurricane 3 to compensate for the "flaws" it has in itself? - Excactly we boost it!So i went for the typical chinese backhand way - and bought the Hurricane 8 in 2.15 thickness and 37° hardness. Then i boosted it: One layer of DHS No. 15 glue.One big layer of Falco Tempo Long Booster.(usually this is supposed to be enough already, but i went a little overboard it here and wasnt patient enough)Another small layer of Falco Tempo Long Booster. Some days later i had to glue, though it was still a bit domed. Either way i succeded and it sticked to the blade. But holy moly this thing was fast all of a sudden. The famous clicking sound already cracked through the air by merely touching the ball through a backhand drive. Besides this strong change in speed it still had his advantages in the shortplay. Comparison:Equally fast, maybe slightly faster than the Xiom Vega Pro, but more controllable, even with 2 layers. Faster and even more spinnier than the Yasaka Rakza 7. On top more controllable and with the Rakza it happened way too often that the ball didnt sink into the rubber deep enough, so the ball went way too short and fell off onto my side of the table. Never happened with the Hurricane 8. Faster than the Hurricane 3 37° hardness boosted, but equally controll and feeling. Conclusion:For those who play an aggressive looping style and have no problem of boosting their rubbers, i would totally recommend this rubber. If you dont want to boost, and have a more controlled playstyle, this rubber would fit quite well too.

This is a decent all round offensive blade, it’s standout feature is it’s control, flat hitting and smashing.

Topspin: you get good dwell time when looping, it’s fairly spinny but very controlled.

Counter play: again good, decent spin, power and good control at short and medium distances.

Consistency: very consistent, plays better with harder rubbers though.

Short Game: good for flicks, chopping, pushing.

Blocking: very good and has brilliant control.

Smashing: smashing and flat hitting are very nice with good power.

Feeling: the feeling is hard but okay.

Conclusion: the infinity vps is a good blade but it’s top veneer is not durable, changing your rubber even once may splinter the blade.

Rubber advice: hard and medium hard rubbers.

Should you buy this blade? If you have a limited budget and want a good controlled blade for attacking then yes. If you want a blade which will last you a while look elsewhere as the durability is not good at all.

The standout feature of this blade is its good speed, spin and control. It’s the benchmark which all other carbon blades are based on.

Topspin: you get good dwell time when looping, very spinny and controlled at all speeds.

Counter play: again very good, plenty of spin, power and control at all distances.

Consistency: very consistent with all types of rubber.

Short Game: good for flicks, chopping, pushing, the lot.

Blocking: very good, nice and controlled.

Smashing: smashing is nice and controlled with plenty of power, no complaints here.

Feeling: this is where many players differ in opinion. I personally hate the feeling of this blade compared to other blades as it feels almost like glass, but I know others who find it okay. This isn’t good for developing players as feeling vibration feedback is helpful when learning.

Conclusion: the Boll Spirit is a very good blade which works well with all types of rubber, but really does shine with tenergy 05.

Rubber advice: tenergy 05 fh (max) and tenergy 05fx or 05 bh (max or 1.9).

Should you buy this blade? If you can find it, have the money and want a balanced, fast but yet controlled blade, then yes (most players agree the heavier blades 88g+ play better). If you can’t find this blade but want something similar then go for the Boll ALC, it’s basically the same blade but a notch faster and updated for the plastic ball. If you are a beginner and are learning to loop then I would go with a korbel, virtuoso, Nittaku acoustic or a slower carbon blade depending on your price range.

I use a Nittaku Acoustic as my main blade and after years of testing 20+ blades and loads of different rubbers on each one. The standout features of this blade are the good feedback and control, whilst having an incredible spin potential and enough speed for 95% of players.

The blade has a high throw angle, a nice sound when hitting and a good smooth finish... although at its high price you would hope it would have!

Topspin: you get loads of dwell time so you feel the ball stay on the blade and really sink into the wood, resulting in loads of spin when catapulted back out.

Counter play: very good, plenty of spin, power and control at close and mid distance, although it’s hard to get a lot of power from very far back from the table.

Distance: this blade is definitely suited to players who play close to the table mixing different spins and looping, although it can be used further back with appropriately fast rubbers.

Consistency: brilliant, although the blade isn’t particularly linear so harder rubbers can help with this. A word of caution with using softer rubbers (43 degrees and below) as this can make your shots a bit less consistent and wobble a bit.

Short Game: this is where the blade really excels, it’s flicks and slow loopy top spins are second to none. It also has a very good touch so you always feel under control when pushing and chopping.

Blocking: very good, especially with harder rubbers. It’s not as easy and stable as it would be with carbon blades but this isn’t really bad enough to call it a weakness, what it lacks in this department it makes up for in its spin abilities.

Smashing: probably the acoustics weakest area but you can get plenty of power with good technique. A word of caution though if you think of upgrading to an acoustic carbon inner to “fix” this, the carbon inner whilst being much better at smashing just doesn’t have the same feel or spin levels due to its increased hardness. If you are not a national player just stick with the acoustic, trust me!

Conclusion: the Nittaku Acoustic is a brilliant blade which you can use at any level, progressing from Mark V rubbers each side to eventually harder and faster ones. Hybrid rubbers work particularly well on this blade on the fh and tacky rubbers work well too. I currently use Xiom China Guang fh and MXD max on the backhand and it’s a controlled spinny beast!

Rubber advice: a hybrid/Chinese rubber forehand and a 45 degrees or above euro rubber on the backhand (max). This blade is a bit picky with very springy rubbers and I do not recommend tenergy 05, the ball springs out too quickly and it’s hard to control.

Should you buy this blade? If you have the money and want a blade which will be an unparalleled spin machine with a Chinese/hybrid rubber on the forehand then yes. If you want to use tenergy on the fh then no, buy a korbel, virtuoso off-, viscaria or Boll ALC instead (in ascending price and speed order).

I bit the bullet and bought a sheet of 09C black max.I have been using Neo H3 Provincial blue sponge 41 degree, boosted with 4 layers of seamoon oil.I replaced the H3 with 09C on the same blade - Stiga nostalgic OFF. After 5 hours of play, I can write the following comparison.ServiceH3 definitely reign in short spinny service. I struggled to keep my service short with 09C. It's claimed to be tacky. But the tack is about 20% of what is on H3. Understandably it was difficult to produce comparable spin with 09C.Close to table flat hit09C reigns in this area due to the powerful sponge and semi-tacky topsheet. But the ball tends to go very long. I had to adjust the angle.Lifting back spinBoth are equally easy in this area. It is quite easy to engage the sponge in 09C to produce tons of spin. However, H3 still produces more spin.Topspin rallyIt is easier to counter loop topspin with 09C. You don't have to have a full swing to do power loop.Let's 50% power produces 70 spin in 09C, and 60 spin in H3. 70% power produces 80 spin in 09C but 85 spin in H3. If you give 80-90% of your full swing, 09C might top at 100 but H3 can go 120.Bear in mind, I was using 41 degree H3. If you use 39degree you might bottom out sooner, thus equal spin with 09C.ConslusionSpin (service, loop in high impact): H3>09CSpin (loop in low to medium impact): H3=09CSpeed: H3<09C

This is an excellent choice for those who desire a lot of spin, variety, reliable control, and/or adaptable to both forehand & backhand. Although the Fastarc G1 may not be one of the more powerful rubbers in it's price and performance range, it is still fast and can compete with more powerful rubbers when utilizing the G1's topspin capabilities. It won't be as spiny as many Chinese rubbers, but it isn't far off. The BH flick will take some time getting use to, but it will work well with good technique. I personally found this rubber to work best with my serves. Keeping the ball low to the net while maintaining high levels of spin is one of this rubber's specialties. Blocking with this rubber will be a nice surprise. The block capabilities are very well rounded between speed, spin, and control. The performance of the G1 will last longer than most, but be aware that it also chips easier than most other rubbers, so be careful not to grip the rubber to the table when playing if you can help it, otherwise it will last you a long time.I would recommend this rubber who's play-style revolves around servers, heavy spins, and high level variety in their gameplay.I would recommend this rubber be paired with an offensive 5+2 carbon blade.I do not recommend this rubber for beginners or most intermediate players.I do not recommend if power and/or control is your primary play-style.

Donic Slice 40This was one of the first rubbers I used when I started playing again about 3yrs ago.1.5mm sponge on Backhand. Mounted on a Stiga Def Pro Blade.During practice and play I did swap over the Slice 40 to FH to get a feel for FH strokes.Even though this is a pretty slow rubber, good speed can also be produced when you put the effort in!!This rubber can produce high spin levels and when cleaned is very grippy, needs to be kept clean during play.Control is this rubbers forte, great for close to the table blocking, crisp and precise. Short game is excellent and due to the v grippy surface good spin can be imparted on pushes etc.Chopping is really very good!! Again good control and high spin when needed. Spin variation can be fully utilised as well.Counter Attacking is another strong point, this rubber can be easily used for counter top spins and punch shots, very active blocks etc.If you feel inclined to open up top spin v back spin, then no real issues there especially for slow spinny openers!! Generally top spin is pretty spin loaded although not fast as far as speed is concerned.If you are a player that has a mixed spin and control oriented game with a defensive bias, comfortable to chop, block, attack when necessary and prefer inverted rubbers then this would be well worth trying!!

I have always preferred to use euro-style tensor rubbers.The Chinese tacky rubber was just not my cup of tea. I found that their nonresponsive hard sponge along with sticky surface is very difficult to use effectively when out of position and forced to defend. Also, the tacky top sheet is hard to maintain and loose tackiness very quickly. Not very fast as well. On the plus side, it is great on serve and receives, net play, and of course in the spin department.Hybrid rubbers always seamed like best of both worlds, only in practice they weren't. I guess technology just wasn't there. However, I believe that this rubber is a game changer! Somehow Yasaka has produced rubber that combines all advantages of tacky surface, with a sponge that can activate and deliver liveliness when needed, and I love it! It has a high arc for over-the-net safety, amazing spin capability, and amazing control. Sticky surface neutralizes all of the opponent incoming spin, so you don't have to adjust bat angle on every single shot, instead, you just go for it and simply counterstrike and place it where you want it! That being said, it not super fast rubber, and you may need a faster blade to utilize all of its potentials, and you can also always impart more power to your shots. But don't worry it is more than enough to finish the point, especially once u adjust the stroke mechanic to be more forward, and the bat angle to be more closed. One more thing going for it is a reasonable price. Butterfly Dignics 09C has similar properties but faster, and more bounce, but it cost more than double, so its no brainer in my book!All in all great rubber very well priced. It does take some adjustment in your technique but it is worth it.

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