Shall i upgrade my gear?

Im new 18 year old player. Im currently using a stiga supra 23 Euro racket and have improved. Do you think its worth buying better rubber to use on it? Does blade it self make any difference or just rubbers? Was thinking of xiom omega iv and vega pro.
Thanks ( If you can recall a related topic that would answer my questions please give me link ).
 
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Im new 18 year old player. Im currently using a stiga supra 23 Euro racket and have improved. Do you think its worth buying better rubber to use on it? Does blade it self make any difference or just rubbers? Was thinking of xiom omega iv and vega pro.
Thanks ( If you can recall a related topic that would answer my questions please give me link ).

Yes, getting some rubbers is great.
I am not fond of any premades - they are all really bad - including the blade.
However, I think your choice of rubbers is a bit too fast for a new player.

If you have some coaching too, then those rubbers may not be too bad/fast for you.
So it all goes with how you play/adapt, if you know what I mean.

One up from premades can be some Chinese rubbers (cheap and great), we have many threads about them already.
It's easy to get a new blade, and new rubbers from sales ColesTT and once you give that a 6 months to 1 year, you can then move up to your Tensor rubbers (the ones you chosen)
 
Thank you very much for the feedback.
To the issue now, checked a bit more rubbers and found Dhs hurricane and skyline 3 neo. They are good for new player?
Something irrelevant: Why I can't answer a strong backspin with closed bat forehand topspin ? can do same with backspin..
Cause I can't find topic about rubbers and blades for new players shall I make a related topic?
What difference between different blades is? Apart from weight that is always pretty much the same. And what do Off +- etc. that constructors write mean?
 
Yes, getting some rubbers is great.
I am not fond of any premades - they are all really bad - including the blade.
However, I think your choice of rubbers is a bit too fast for a new player.

If you have some coaching too, then those rubbers may not be too bad/fast for you.
So it all goes with how you play/adapt, if you know what I mean.

One up from premades can be some Chinese rubbers (cheap and great), we have many threads about them already.
It's easy to get a new blade, and new rubbers from sales ColesTT and once you give that a 6 months to 1 year, you can then move up to your Tensor rubbers (the ones you chosen)
tabletennis11 site has some of the rubbers colestt has at better prices 18vs22 eg but for over 50 € it's also free to ship from tabletstennis11 what do you think of this site?
 
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Both Rubber and blade make a big difference. For a beginner I would use something soft like Butterfly Sriver, Stiga Mendo MP, JOOLA Mambo, LKT Pro XP, Friendship Focus III. Basically find anything with high control and low speed, but decent spin.

I would not recommend H3 or tacky Chinese rubbers because you haven't learned to feel the ball just yet. Once you have a good sense of feeling and your technique has developed it is usually after 1 year or so you can make a good decision on switching to faster euro/jap rubber or switching to the more loop driving from Chinese rubbers like H3.
 
And any suggestion about blade? I will see any difference from my current bat? I want to add something, the reason i m looking for one is that i try do a forehand top-spin and i try to hit it hard but i feel the effort i make is really vanished on the rubber...Then checked people i practise with bats and when i let ball bounce from a height of half a meter, it bounces over 5 times mine is just 3 and then rests.. You suggest going for a rubber that stops ball on it so that i can give more spins? Isnt rubber speed-reaction time something you just used to ?
 
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Yes, getting some rubbers is great.
I am not fond of any premades - they are all really bad - including the blade.
However, I think your choice of rubbers is a bit too fast for a new player.

If you have some coaching too, then those rubbers may not be too bad/fast for you.
So it all goes with how you play/adapt, if you know what I mean.

One up from premades can be some Chinese rubbers (cheap and great), we have many threads about them already.
It's easy to get a new blade, and new rubbers from sales ColesTT and once you give that a 6 months to 1 year, you can then move up to your Tensor rubbers (the ones you chosen)

Exactly how I feel about pre-mades. Crappy rubbers, utter rubbish. Rubbers glued on with extra thick, industrial strength glue blob from an alien lab. You will remove 12 layers of skin from your thumb if you use it to try to rub off the stuff and even with a discarded rubber cut-out, it may not be enough to complete the job on ONE side.

Often the blade, even if it is a crappy thing made from decomposing pallet wood shaved down to the thickness of a blade, (hey, the ever popular Joola T-Hold White Spot is made from something like that !!) even if the blade is not top of line BTY quality, once you get the crappy rubber and the glue residue off it, AND fine sand it smooth AND seal it (it will always splinter if you don't)... once you do all THAT... you got something a not so serious or beginning player could use to get started in the sport if you slap on some decent control rubbers or even discarded serviceable rubbers from a TT center.

Now who is going to go through all that trouble to make a bat for minimal money???!!!

You would be surprised.

I have done that task many times to recondition Army camp rec center bats and for shyts and giggles made a for like that to tryout.

You would be surprised how well a crappy ALL class former premade blade plays when you slap on a sheet of XP 2008 or a modern rubber (used). It is not quite the level of a $16 blade with the same rubbers, but it is 10,000 times better than the premade it was.

Tony, you go against traditional convention when you say a "Fast" rubber is not so "fast" if the player is receiving effective coaching.

haha, I am exactly from the same mindset. Screw the pundits on this one, I'll agree with a lot their other theory or approach, but not on this one. Anyone reading my posts on this knows where I come from and why I feel this way, but heck, I am only an amature hack who is not 1/10th into the sport actively or making a living from it as a professional coach, like say Tony and others.
 
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And any suggestion about blade? I will see any difference from my current bat? I want to add something, the reason i m looking for one is that i try do a forehand top-spin and i try to hit it hard but i feel the effort i make is really vanished on the rubber...

I feel ya dude. U are so right about that. With a pre-made bat, you are not going to make heavy topspin, even with a 100 KPH tailwind helping you.

Then checked people i practise with bats and when i let ball bounce from a height of half a meter, it bounces over 5 times mine is just 3 and then rests..

That is not exactly the ultimate test of how well the ball will fly off the bat. An OFF blade with expertly speedglued H2 is universally accepted as the ATOM BOMB of top level performance for an attacking FH, but even with that bat, the ball will bounce about the same as you mentioned. (due to tackiness)

On a separate note, the bounce test ITTF President is reported to be strongly considering for his crew of under-paid drunken minions to test is equally if not less realistic or applicable to the real truth of what makes a bat powerful Hint: you cannot do a low impact bounce test to determine how powerful a bat combo can be, you must use subjective judgement based on decades of knowledge, experience, and demonstrated ability to even be in a position to say X rubber/blade combo does this under powerloop vs incoming heavy underspin ball. Doing a simple bounce test is worse than the equililent of kicking the tires of a performance car to judge the ability of it to perform on a winding race course such as Nürburgring... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nürburgring

You suggest going for a rubber that stops ball on it so that i can give more spins? Isnt rubber speed-reaction time something you just used to ?

The elasticity of topsheet, the properties and maintenance of the sponge, the overall grip and other factors greatly affect the ability to impact speed and spin to the ball. The time the ball stays engaged with the topsheet and sponge is known as DWELL time and if it is too short, we say the ball leaves the bat too soon and is not good enough for "proper" looping performance under most situations except loopdrives.

See the above text in BOLD
 
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So, this is info that originally comes from Der_Echte. He has posted it so many times that he may even be getting bored of posting it.

Get a Galaxy 896 blade

and Dawei 2008 XP rubbers.

The whole setup should cost about $30.00 and is an excellent setup for beginner-intermediate play.

You can get that at colestt.com and there are other places where you would be able to order it.
 
Thanks you both for the nice advice. So i will go with the suggested set up and im confident i will see difference since its experienced people like you suggesting :) . ColesTT is far and i cant understand shipment policies of this site can anyone help me, how much it will cost for greece ?:confused: If you have in mind a seller that has this rubbers/ blade closer to greece tell me.


International Shipping
  • I've shipped to every continent except Antarctica. I charge actual shipping for international orders.
  • Anything above 5oz has to go in a priority flat rate envelope, so if you're going to get more than one rubber, you might as well get 10 as far as shipping is concerned.
  • Priority international has jumped to $25ish. Above that it varies by weight, but will go priority which is trackable (actually just "deliver confirmation"). If the order won't fit in a flat rate envelope, it's best if you email me for a shipping quote.
I reserve the right to refuse any order (with full refund of course) due to shipping infeasibility or for any other reason I deem appropriate. Please contact me for more accurate quotes, especially if you're outside the US. It's really best to email me before placing an international order to discuss the shipping options available. It has always been my policy to try to charge no more than the actual shipping cost and I frequently refund shipping overpayments. However, I am also no longer in a position to guarantee the postal systems of other countries, especially on expensive orders. Again, if you place an order, it will either be filled or you'll get an email with clarification. Always when ordering from anyone, please remember to check your Paypal/CC email occasionally after ordering for correspondance.
Canadian customers no worry Regular shipping to Canada is cheap and now trackable.
 
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Exactly how I feel about pre-mades. Crappy rubbers, utter rubbish. Rubbers glued on with extra thick, industrial strength glue blob from an alien lab. You will remove 12 layers of skin from your thumb if you use it to try to rub off the stuff and even with a discarded rubber cut-out, it may not be enough to complete the job on ONE side.

Often the blade, even if it is a crappy thing made from decomposing pallet wood shaved down to the thickness of a blade, (hey, the ever popular Joola T-Hold White Spot is made from something like that !!) even if the blade is not top of line BTY quality, once you get the crappy rubber and the glue residue off it, AND fine sand it smooth AND seal it (it will always splinter if you don't)... once you do all THAT... you got something a not so serious or beginning player could use to get started in the sport if you slap on some decent control rubbers or even discarded serviceable rubbers from a TT center.

Now who is going to go through all that trouble to make a bat for minimal money???!!!

You would be surprised.

I have done that task many times to recondition Army camp rec center bats and for shyts and giggles made a for like that to tryout.

You would be surprised how well a crappy ALL class former premade blade plays when you slap on a sheet of XP 2008 or a modern rubber (used). It is not quite the level of a $16 blade with the same rubbers, but it is 10,000 times better than the premade it was.

Tony, you go against traditional convention when you say a "Fast" rubber is not so "fast" if the player is receiving effective coaching.

haha, I am exactly from the same mindset. Screw the pundits on this one, I'll agree with a lot their other theory or approach, but not on this one. Anyone reading my posts on this knows where I come from and why I feel this way, but heck, I am only an amature hack who is not 1/10th into the sport actively or making a living from it as a professional coach, like say Tony and others.
All the info is really intersting. Do you suggest using the blade of the old bat with a new cheap rubber ? The process you talk about in order to make the blade viable are easy for me, have done much more difficult timber things in the past and got the tools. I didn't quite get the last five lines of your answer from "Tony" till the end.
 
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So, this is info that originally comes from Der_Echte. He has posted it so many times that he may even be getting bored of posting it.

Get a Galaxy 896 blade

and Dawei 2008 XP rubbers.

The whole setup should cost about $30.00 and is an excellent setup for beginner-intermediate play.

You can get that at colestt.com and there are other places where you would be able to order it.

haha, breaking news, Cole is SOLD OUT of his 896 blades haha.

There is actually a TT table in the USO at Fort Drum and I was surprised to see 10 regulars there, two of them around 1100-1200 level. USO is holding a tourney early April and it would be a crime if I entered it playing vs that rec crowd. (now a $100 to $200 first prize might make me change my mind)

Right now, I will not enter that tourney, but support it. I went to Colesstt.com website last night to set up one of those cheepo good specials and opted instead for the Instinct+ blade with XP 2008. (That was under $40 with case and rubbers and protective sheets) First place player will get that bat and maybe I could post on the TT forums for people to donate small stuff for the other players in the tourney.

Maybe I go to Walmart and get some of those cheepo hardbat stuff and maybe it will be an easier task to get the rubber off without having to sand mm of the wood. Then I could slap on any rubber laying around on the stuff and a rec center warrior has a much more serviceable bat for next to nothing, then later he learns more of the game and buys an inexpensive proper bat.

Hopefully, such players will not become hopeless Equipment Junkies (EJ) who buy hundreds of dollars per year of gear they will never use often...
 
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SB, I have recycled rec center bats LOTS of times and it can work with a quality inexpensive rubber like XP 2008 or you just be lucky and come across a used sheet of something still serviceable.

Really though, since the average price of a decent name brand blade on the low end is usually $50 or so USD on the LOW end, and considering you could build a very serviceable COMPLETE bat for LESS than the cost of a blade alone, why go through all that trouble just to save $30-$40 USD???

Well, it would surprise all of us how many of such fellows exist!

If anyone didn't get the last lines (SB did) I was saying don't take me as the absolute expert in these matters, I am not as pro as some others who actually make a living doing this stuff. I simply love the sport and have some experience, but not as much as what we should consider professionals in the business.
 
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SB, just email cole and ask him, he'll respond quickly. If you buy just a blade and rubbers, the shipping will surely drive the price up.

eacheng.net shipping from China is a little over $20. I have ordered from them a couple times.

Maybe you can find a reseller of equipment in Europe with acceptable postage rates.

Even if you can't get such a reseller near you, it is very likely you can find a suitable Stiga or Donic or Tibhar or other Euro brand balde that works and costs 30 or so Euros, which isn't all that bad a price for something that could last your lifetime.

It is just that some of us want the absolute bargain for what we want and damn everything else. I have operated both ways.
 
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At the end of the day SB, you balance the costs and benefits, then come up with what you want. So if you spend some time getting the junk rubbers and the glob glue job corrected, the blade smooth sanded and sealed, then it is fit to re0use and all you have to do is come up with some rubbers and you are back in business for little money. You don't even have to use new rubbers, maybe you find some used rubbers with life left, or your friend gives you some, or you make a deal, or your club has some used rubbers in a shelf somewhere.... whatever, you are not out that much money, if any and if the "new" used setup is not suitable for you, then you still gained valuable experience and can STILL buy new gear suitable for you.

Those are the compelling reasons why I like to recondition crappy old blades and slap on some rubbers cheep. Call me the cheep-skate-dude, it's OK, just don't call me late for lunch. Sometimes, with some players, if they cannot get this equipment for free or little cost, they will not play and our sport needs every player it can mobilize.

The argument on the otherside is also compelling. since you can get very suitable equipment for relatively little cost, why got through the hassle and you know what you are getting, you know it will will have a high chance of working for you, and you know it will last. Not so much outlay, good expected performance and durability, and predictability, low risk. Those are also good reasons to simply buy new equipment.

Besides... shopping for new gear is FUN !!!
 
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Thank you very much for the feedback.
To the issue now, checked a bit more rubbers and found Dhs hurricane and skyline 3 neo. They are good for new player?
Something irrelevant: Why I can't answer a strong backspin with closed bat forehand topspin ? can do same with backspin..
Cause I can't find topic about rubbers and blades for new players shall I make a related topic?
What difference between different blades is? Apart from weight that is always pretty much the same. And what do Off +- etc. that constructors write mean?

Sorry I didn't see this one earlier...

When you face an incoming heavy underspin ball, there are two schools of though on how to make an offensive topspin shot vs this ball and one school that teaches a quick shot that is not really a topspin attack.

If you close bat and swing forward, the ball will bite on your rubber and go down. If the bat is closed to much, the ball might not even make it to the net.

There are two things that make a topspin counter shot vs this ball. Blade angle and swing plane. You open your blade enough (a little past vertical and swing mostly UPWARDS with grazing contact), the ball will go high enough over the net and if you gave it enough spin, the ball will land safely. Most players who face a heavy underspin will open the blade a LOT and swing upwards. fine grazing or only a little solid contact at impact. You need a fast bat speed at impact or it is a FAIL. This makes a very heavy and safe topspin shot that is consistent, but not a very fast shot that will trouble a good defender or put him/her under pressure, unless they are a novice.

The other way a player hits this shot, especially if the ball is net height or higher, is to open the blade near vertical, swing almost entirely FORWARD and vs the heavier underspin, finish the follow through more upwards depending on the amount of incoming underspin. This results in a very powerful loopdrive shot that has both speed and spin. You hitting thorugh the ball with solid contact, NOT the Grazing contact for the heavy slow topspin vs this ball. This shot is fast, has heavy spin and will land if you are in position, your timing and the other mechanics are correct. This shot will pressure an opponent or win the point, but you have to do it right or it is a free point for opponent.

Another alternate school of thought is for mostly junior players who do not have the strength, explosion, or skill to do that shat at their stage of growth. Still, one can still make a positive shot that will pressure an opponent. It is similar to a no-spin or light topspin flick in concept and execution. The player does not hae the explosion or timing yet to create a very fast bat speed at impact to make these heavy underspin or fast loopdrive vs this ball, so the coach teaches such a player to hit through the ball with an open bat, open a little more open than vertical and swing forward, finish upwards. it is similar in concept to the fast topspin, but since the player cannot generate the needed bat speed, the player is opening the blade even more to compensate for the underspin. The result is a fast (or if coach tells player to slow it down some for more control, a medium fast) shot that has little or no topspin. still, if the ball is placed well, like say at the opponet's playing elbow or a wide angle suddenly, it is still a very good shot, an affirmative positive attacking shot that can be used at most levels if done right. Many weak (weak in physical strength) are taught to attack the high cut ball to an uncomfortable location with such a shot. it is still a very effective match shot that will work at their level and above until they get the strength and training/consistency to attack the heavy underspin with a loop drive or safe, heavy slow topspin.

H3 is a good reliable rubber once you "break it in" to soften the topsheet some. Problem is like Richard mentioned earlier, these tacky Chinese rubbers or fast modern Euro rubbers have some rebound (Euro/Japan) or react severely to spin (tacky like H3) so a beginner has a learning curve in the beginning. if he is not being coached, his mistakes continue and he/she gets discouraged. This is OK if a coach can sort it out for the player and teach/coach them effectively, but a player doing the sport without the guidance/instruction of a coach will have more difficulty with such a rubber. This is the pundits' basic argument, which I can agree with in this respect. Where we differ is that with coaching, one can overcome and be effective with a wide variety of equipment from the very beginning, instead of having a rigid defined early equipment path.

We all are right in our own ways on this matter. The pundits speak from decades of experience and have seen their way work for both themselves and their students. Only an idiot would say that the way of the pundit is hot garbage, it works, has worked, and will likely continue to work effectively. It is based on knowledge/experience of decades or experts in our sport. Only a fool would discount and reject such demonstrated success from a professional when he is not even wet behind the ears. I just say the pundit way is not the only effective way, that is just me and I do not speak for everyone.
 
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I really appreciate your effort to learn this dummy( me) some basic of the sport. About the backspin ball i can return with the open bat way like we usually do with short serves near net, but i manage only 1/4 times i try to loop it with the wing stroke you describe other 3 times ball is on the net. Its probably a hard stroke that requires a lot of practise. As for the equipment i dont have coach but a friend we practise together is playing in a team and is very consistent player with some good technique. Honestly if i get from tabletennis11 a blade of 30 E as you told it could last a lifetime and give other 20 E for 2 begginer's rubbers, friendship maybe, i will still have the chance to get a better rubber in the future if i get better. What do you think ? Its not i dont want to use the blade of custom bat but i will have to get one in the long run.
 
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I think there are many different suitable equipments out there for you that will cost a reasonable amount of money, like say under 100 Euros. It is also possible like I described to get by on less.

If you like your equipment and it does for you what you want at your level... fine. Why worry too much about it. if you don't get good coaching, it will be difficult, but not impossible to grow to an very above average amature level, so why sweat it?

You got lots of options available to you, plus you understand the +/- sides of all of them. You are your own man and will do what a man must do deciding himself. no one here should get so offended if you choose to go one way or another.

The ball vs heavy underspin, if your technique (and timing of acceleration) is not there, you will never achieve the required bat speed to safely topspin the ball like you want with any level of acceptable consistency. So, for now, maybe you learn the last method, which is to really open up the bat and swing forward making solid contact through the ball. At first, you will fail as this is not a natural way to do things, but later, you adapt and it can work well for you until you learn how to be explosive enough to generate bat speed to allow you to loop these underspin balls. Until then, hitting through them with an extra open bat will get the job done for you if you adapt to it...
 
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