Is there a way to save this blade after a “minor” accident?

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So I would like to know if I can somehow prevent it to splinter or get damaged even more while gluing, using edge tape and stuff.
Both the outer and medium plies are koto.
 

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Heck yeah, that’s nothing. Can’t really judge the size this. I always use wood glue, and for large damage I use a thin thin slice of plywood (which I got from hipnotic) and for really small damages and rips I soak paper from a news paper in glue. Medium ones soak the glue with saw dust… then patch it… let dry completely and sand (800 paper or finer)…

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L-zr
 
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It’s still hard to see, but I would say that’s at the most a medium damage. So I would try saw dusty mixed with wood glue. You could use other glue as well but I like word glue because it’s sa little softer after it’s set. The most important is that if you use sawdust the glue has to be slow drying. And remember you have to sand it so don’t use too much. The mix should be like a paste not too solid and not too runny. Too runny and it wot shape to solid and it won’t attach. Maybe better to be on the runny side and do it several times. You can practice on something else before plunging in…

Cheers
L-zr
 
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I have fixed something like this before.

Use a sharp knife to remove the loose wood. Don't sand it, the rougher the better for the next step.

Use wood epoxy to fill the open space. When mixed, it's like clay.

Use an old credit card to scrape and shape the epoxy. After curing, the epoxy is made to be sanded.
 
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Let me tell you I patched my Primorac carbon after sone serious rips with just varnish. It took 10+ layers . I don’t recommend this, it increased g to he weight by 5 grams but except for this it was perfect, It was right in the middle of the hit zone…

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L-zr
 
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I have fixed something like this before.

Use a sharp knife to remove the loose wood. Don't sand it, the rougher the better for the next step.

Use wood epoxy to fill the open space. When mixed, it's like clay.

Use an old credit card to scrape and shape the epoxy. After curing, the epoxy is made to be sanded.
Yes that will work the same way as the mix sawdust wood glue. The only thing with this method is that you will have a lot of raisin that will go to waste, But it works…

Cheers
L-zr
 
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Yes that will work the same way as the mix sawdust wood glue. The only thing with this method is that you will have a lot of raisin that will go to waste, But it works…

Cheers
L-zr

Very little waste with wood epoxy, it comes in a tube and you cut off what you need and mix it up.

I use the wood epoxy for other minor wood repair jobs around the house so the tube sits in storage until I need to use it. It cost about $7.

Wood glue + sawdust will work fine, but you need to find or make some sawdust and the application is messy. Wood epoxy is far simpler, just mix it and apply. No need for trial and error on getting the exact mix of glue + sawdust.
 
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Very little waste with wood epoxy, it comes in a tube and you cut off what you need and mix it up.

I use the wood epoxy for other minor wood repair jobs around the house so the tube sits in storage until I need to use it. It cost about $7.

Wood glue + sawdust will work fine, but you need to find or make some sawdust and the application is messy. Wood epoxy is far simpler, just mix it and apply. No need for trial and error on getting the exact mix of glue + sawdust.
Fair enough, but once you learn there is no experiment necessary. I use wood glue all the time and the sawdust is a waste product…

Cheers
L-zr
 
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Definitely fixable.
There was a very good write up on how to fix this type of damage a few months ago.
I'll link it if I find it but hopefully someone will give the advice again soon!
As the old saying goes : There are many ways to skin a cat.

I do not agree with any of the above mentioned ways but may way is quite complicated. You may not be prepared to go through the procedure.

it would involve two pieces of 8mm plate glass,
2 pieces of .5mm Mylar sheet
Epoxy, NOT out of tubes
a few drops of epoxy thinners
and a rock to act as a weight press.
 
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As the old saying goes : There are many ways to skin a cat.

I do not agree with any of the above mentioned ways but may way is quite complicated. You may not be prepared to go through the procedure.

it would involve two pieces of 8mm plate glass,
2 pieces of .5mm Mylar sheet
Epoxy, NOT out of tubes
a few drops of epoxy thinners
and a rock to act as a weight press.
Go on.
i feel like this thread is gonna be useful for a lot of visitors
 
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Go on.
i feel like this thread is gonna be useful for a lot of visitors
Make up a small amount of good epoxy (I use westsystem Z105) about half a thimble.

Take 4-5 drops of this mix and thin it carefully with epoxy thinners down to about good quality milk.

Take a very small brush, pick up some of the liquid and "feed it" on to the broken edge, letting the fluid soak into the wood layers.
Repeat until a
feel of "nearly saturated" is achieved.

Take a few drops of the un-thinned epoxy mix
and apply it to the edge as well.

Let soak in what wants to go in and remove any excess with tissue.

apply mylar on both sides.
apply 8mm glass on both sides.
Lay the sandwich on a solid table , your mum's kitchen work bench is perfect.

Weigh everything down with bricks.

Let it all get hard.

Remove excess hard glue on the edge with rasp file. sand paper or dremmel etc.

The playing surface itself should be already perfectly flat just break the gloss from the epoxy by lightly block sanding the whole blade with about 320 grit paper.


Don't forget to breath during the process 😂
 
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I would take something like a clamp or pliers and press the wood that is bulging, back into its original shape (top ply flat) and then put wood glue on the edge and wherever else you thinks it needs it to keep that part glued to the rest of the blade.

You could apply the glue first and then clamp as well. When you clamp or use pliers, you are simply trying to get the part on the blade face back to being flat like the rest of the blade face.

Lodro's method is more complete but more complicated. I would take under 5 min to make it good enough.

In the end, you should know, you don't hit with that part of the blade so, what ever you do to fix it should really be fine.
 
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Howl at the Moon is another option.

Even if it doesn't fix anything, you feel better.

nah, this is not serious damage. So many ways to get it good enough.

Have sum fun with this and take sum pics and post your solution.
 
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Howl at the Moon is another option.

Even if it doesn't fix anything, you feel better.

nah, this is not serious damage. So many ways to get it good enough.

Have sum fun with this and take sum pics and post your solution.

Although this answer does not sound serious, it is a good, solid answer.

You don't hit with that part of the blade. Even if you did nothing, it would still be fine. It is worth knowing, that, in some sense, howling at the moon may be the most important answer. :)
 
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Update:
So I tried pliers and even though I placed a folded piece of cloth on the blade and was trying to be gentle some of the damaged part came right off, perhaps some air got in between the first and second plies but the rest is almost completely flat. Now that I see the previous pics a crack was already there so it was a matter of time I suppose.

Now, the top ply is missing and some of the second ply.
I assume now I can use sawdust or other wood waste and wood glue to patch it up?
 

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