Beginner, EJ, rackets, training.

[Przemooo]

I'm from Poland. Below I'm pasting the content in my language. I'm using a translator.

I'm presenting my exercises at home. I can make a video in a week. A bit static and stiff, but maybe it helps.

New video by Przemyslaw Kowalczyk

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Przemyslaw Kowalczyk

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Przemyslaw Kowalczyk

photos.app.goo.gl

Carl asked for a video of at least 3x fh and 3xbh, so maybe this recording will be enough for now. Then I can record something more.

I'd like some advice on choosing a racket and rubbers.

I used to play for half a year as a kid (13 years old) at school 1-2x a week, only matches. Then a bit around the block. Now for 3 months I've been playing in a club 3x a week for 1.5 hours. There is a coach but rather for children, although he devoted 2 training sessions to me. Generally, during training we pair up and play with our partners the entire training session. I would like to ask the coach and the president for changes to select a few guys and train more set pieces, and play matches at the end, to develop.
I fell into the desire to test Chinese equipment and bought a few rackets and rubbers - EJ virus?

Currently I play:

MY - gr 6.5, 15.1 x 15.9 - ALL- https://tt-maximum.com/en/shop/rackets/yinhe-milkyway-raketka-03b-all

So the blade is rather all-, maybe all/all+ (after all it is Yinhe), and in addition a soft big dipper on fh (38) and a harder one on bh (probably 39 or 40, which is the hardest).
At first I thought BH was too hard, but after 3 months I've already played it a bit and I like it a lot. It has a lot of power and I've already got the technique. On the other hand, FH seems too weak to me and you have to put a lot of power into the hit. For now I'll stick to 38 degrees but I'll definitely move to 39 degrees God Dipper, because a lot of people recommend it. Now I have to put too much power into the hit, but it forces the technique so that's a plus.
The composition seems to me ayous - spruce - ayous - very flexible despite the thickness.
The handle is very nice, perfect, maybe a little thicker could be, but it's nice 8.5mm circumference.

4 new items by Przemyslaw Kowalczyk

photos.app.goo.gl

If you can, please confirm what I have on the outside - limba or ayous?

I WANT TO CHECK IN 1ST ORDER

03b - I ordered a second one just like the one I have to possibly put different grips there, slower like Mercury or Jupiter (non-tensor like Big Dipper)

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIUfqYg

Yinhe 04b - from the same series as I have 03b, but a bit faster and probably a thicker handle. What do you think its composition is? It will arrive in a few days.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvJZ7AY

Yinhe 07b - also from this series. What do you think its composition is? It will arrive in a few days.

Sanwei 5 Fextra - gr 6.0 - 85g, but a bit thin handle so I will probably return it, apparently it is like YSE. Circumference 8.3mm

Loki Kirin 2 - 8.1 9.0 (5 ratings) (apparently similar to YSE) thickness 6.4, weight 84, handle thickness 8.3mm - a bit too thin handle too.

Yinhe n11s - good handle but quite stiff, thickness 6.5

Yinhe n10s - good handle but very stiff, thickness 6.2

Palio 02 - handle too short, thickness 7.0mm so too thick so I'll give it away.

---

WHEN I DEVELOP MORE I WANTED TO IMPLEMENT THESE 7-LAYER BOARDS. So I also bought:

Yinhe uran u-2 gr 6.0 - 8.5 9 (7-wooden) - 97zł, outside koto

Sanwei fextra 7 - gr 6.0 - 8.4 9.3 -100z outside limba

I've read a lot of good opinions about these boards, that they are similar to viscaria and I would like to play with them someday. Definitely not now, although in a few months I might check them out of curiosity for motivation, so I bought:

Pro 01 gr 5.7 - 8.9 9.1

Sanwei 75 inner - 8.6 9.2

Palio 03 - 4 layers of thin carbon. Supposedly similar to Samsonov carbon, so I took it out of curiosity. Faster, not for now.

I also bought the following rubbers:

Mercury II soft bh/fh X3 (3 sets)

Mercury II medium bh/fh

Big dipper 38 on bh

Big dipper 39 on fh

Yupiter III 39 on fh

Yupiter 38 on bh

Kokutaku 896 bh and fh

Friendship 729 croo on bh and fh

Palio ak47 blue - soft on fh and bh

Key questions:

I know, I bought a lot of it and probably made a mistake, but I wanted to choose something right for myself.
At first, I want to play with a free blade and rubbers, so I wanted to try Jupiter and Mercury. Jupiter is supposedly like Big Dipper, but Big Dipper is tensor. I don't know if Big Dipper doesn't limit my development? I'm already getting the hang of it and I think it's a great rubber. I don't know if it's worth going back to softer rubbers, e.g. Mercury II? Wouldn't it be better to take Jupiter, which is not tensor but strong?

I've also been thinking for some time about sticking with my Yinhe 03b board because I feel it very well, I have a fairly thick handle.

I want to choose equipment that suits my skills. I've been playing for a short time so I'm definitely at the beginning of my journey, and I don't want to jump straight into strong equipment.
I can handle FH and BH, all forms of strokes come out well for me, I like looping and attacking. I play most in zone 2 and at the table.
Many say that I have the makings and I know what it's all about, so let's say that I'm not a total amateur but an amateur+. I can play an equal game with those who have been training for several years, but I lose more often. I used to play football for 15 years, but a back injury ended that sports. I am 37 years old and 183 cm. I still struggle a bit with my back (lumbar section), and Chinese equipment requires a lot of effort, which I sometimes feel on my back and after training. Although I often see that a good hit from my board is a strong shot and I am happy with that. Maybe I should not change equipment at all?

Unfortunately, I do not have any decent videos of playing at the table yet, but I will try to record one. I have quite good coordination and speed. What do you advise?

Additionally, at home I bounce off the mattress almost every day for an hour, and I train 3 times a week for 2 hours. I want to progress as quickly as possible.
I have quite large hands and a height of 183 cm.
Which linings are worth combining with which boards, from those I bought?
What could be a European alternative to relieve the back and less power to hit?

I wanted to buy the following boards for my set, 2-3 pieces of European boards, to compare and find the best one. I would focus on 5-ply but I would also like your advice on which of these 5- and 7-ply you prefer.

My problem is medium-large hands. The Sanwei Fextra 7 and U-2 grips are perfect for me, which is why some items did not appear here, although there are good boards like Korbel.

Secondly, I do not want a too heavy set. My current weight is 173g. And I consider it ideal, although I will probably be able to get used to 185g. But I would prefer something up to 180g, which is why I am looking for light rubbers. I will probably try Xiom rubbers someday, for now I am checking Chinese ones.

Below is the rating, number of opinions from revspin, thickness, price in PLN (Polish currency).

5 LAYERS

Donic Appelgren Allplay gr 5.4 - 6.9 8.8 (50) - 150 PLN supposedly better than Virtuoso Off. It can quickly become too slow. For new balls it vibrates too much and bends. Probably limba limba.

Stratus Powerwood - 8.9 9.3 - gr. 6.2 - 200 (thicker handle than Xiom Offensive S and Korbel bty) - may be too fast, Sweden extra is softer and slower, different, crunchy. Some complained that it broke.
Better feel than samsonove 7-layer blue and Black?

Stiga Allround Evolution - 7.4 8.6 (20) - faster than Classic and the same control - 5 layers of wood. Bigger handle for medium hands than Classic

Donic Persson Powerallround - 160zl at stefiego - 7.6 8.7 (16) gr. 5.8 - 5-layer limba ayous. Bigger handle, for medium hands!!

Tibhar Samsonov Alpha - 7.8 8.2 (24) - 160, gr 5.9mm. Supposedly for advanced beginners. Better finished than Premium Contact. Thick FL handle!!!

Tibhar Samsonov Premium Contact - 5 layers, slightly faster

Xiom Allround S - 7.8 9.5 (11) - 220zł (170zł ustefiego) - good with all rubbers. Low weight 79-83g!!! So you can reach 170g with Xiom rubbers! Supposedly the ST handle is very thick, FL is cool. It is all+, and yasaka all

Xiom Offensive S - gr 6.1 - 8.4 9.2 (40) - 220zł - vibrates less because it is thicker. It has limba / limba / ayous - the perfect combination. It is faster than Korbel but slower than Powerwood - limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba. A bit stiffer than Korbel, because it is 0.1-0.2mm thicker, but very similar. Apparently "The extended handle is thick enough to feel more comfortable than most blades I have tried. It is not as thick as the Viscaria handle, though. The price and quality are unbeatable. If you prefer consistency over spectacular strikes, you should try it". Two wrote that the handle is thin

Summary:
I think the best of them are Powerwood (a lot of people even a few pieces, I also played for a while and I liked it a lot, I could easily hit high speed, nice control), but I am also thinking about Offensive S. I have also come across the opinion that Powerwood is almost the same as Samsonov Blue, but Blue is better balanced and similar speed, so maybe it is better to take Blue over Powerwood.

Donic Appelgren Allplay - I would have to carry the AN handle (because it is bigger), lots of great opinions but it may be too weak fast and similar to what I have now, that is why I was thinking about Donic Persson Powerallround or even Powerplay, but I don't know if Powerplay is not too big a leap.

Each of these boards above is very interesting and has a bigger handle. Which one would you choose in what order?

7 LAYERS

donic persson power play (powerplay) - 8.5 8.6 (30) - 134zł - external koto - 7 layers of wood. a lot of people recommend it as their best. Similar feel to Powerwood but a bit faster. Better than samsonove for one. Supposedly the head read that the thin first layer splits, and the second is some kind of foil.

Tibhar Samsonov force pro (blue handle) - gr. 6.3 - 8.8 9.1 (20) - less stiff, better for loops than black (better than spw, better balanced) - 204 at stefiego

Xiom Solo - gr 6.4 - 8.7 9.5 (27) - 260 - 7 layers of wood - koto on the outside - Tibhar Evolution MX-S and Nittaku Fastarc G-1 as nice rubbers for this - A bit heavy on the head with them. It has an outer layer of Koto and a thickness of 6.4 so it is faster, stiffer and harder than fextra. It may be the next one after Fextra. Thick handle!!!

Tibhar Szocs Signature 1 - 8.5 9.2 (10) - 260. Large handle. Under obna to the Samsonov Black version, because Blue is softer. Like Samsonov recommended. Greater control and higher throw than Samsonov Black - 7 layers, so stiffer than Powerwood and Offensive S xiom, but more flexible and thinner than Clipper or Solo Xiom. Probably also limba

Victas Swat - 8.7 9.4 (20) gr 6.0 - 300zł - limba outside. flexible super in every respect, quality. Most popular in Asia.

Stiga Clipper Wood 8.5 8.6 (50) - 190zl on Ali and in Poland 300zl - 7 layers. Flexible classic cool

Summary

The first three interest me the most, and the most Tibhar Samsonov force pro (blue), but for now I can leave the purchase of 7-layers for later, when I check u-2 and fextra 7, to know if koto or limba suits me better? If koto, then Xiom solo.

Pour a bucket of cold water on me if I'm exaggerating. I wanted to buy what I found best for yea
rs, not right away. I want to stick to what I assign. The current board is really ok, so I don't know if I should do too much for now. How do you see it?

Finally, I'll add that I used to play football for many years but stopped because of a problem with my cervical spine. I'd rather put less power into the shot than twist hard, which can cause injuries. Faster equipment might help?

 

[Scarfed Garchomp]

Looks to me like the surface ply of the 03B is ayous and not limba. Yinhe often uses ayous instead of limba or koto on their especially cheap blades.

Faster equipment will help you get more speed with less effort, yes. But to make an informed change that will actually benefit you, you want to know if you can actually have a good use for the extra speed. It seems you have a setup that you are already comfortable with, if you actually want to improve then you should not invest so much thought into each individual piece of equipment, rather work from where you are currently knowledgeable.

Your current setup plan to switch to a harder Big Dipper on fh of your current racket is a sound decision and it will help your progress to not have to deal with learning new equipment. That being said I don't think it is necessarily bad to try a faster setup to experiment with, and if you really need to know how different equipment plays then you have to test it yourself, there is no point wondering if something will be good or not if you cannot have firsthand experience with it.

Finally I'll say that my best advice is to take changing equipment slow if at all, there is an period of time you have to invest to learn how to use different equipment and only afterwards will you be able to determine if you are more or less compatible with it

 

[greenbeanmachine]

Finally, I'll add that I used to play football for many years but stopped because of a problem with my cervical spine. I'd rather put less power into the shot than twist hard, which can cause injuries. Faster equipment might help?

Faster equipment can help, but if you can't make a complete twisting motion with it then it will feel very uncontrollable. A better solution would be to use short pips on your forehand, so that you don't have to make a big twisting stroke. Or maybe it will be better to use short pips on your backhand -- depending on how you feel. Pips is worth a try, and it helps a lot of people cope with their injuries.

I have quite large hands and a height of 183 cm.
Which linings are worth combining with which boards, from those I bought?
What could be a European alternative to relieve the back and less power to hit?

Having large hands and being a large player, I would recommend Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Black. I am also a big guy, around 195cm. Clipper is another good choice, a bit faster than Samsonov Black. Most of the Stiga blades will suit larger people. You can also try Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive.

Being a large person is another reason to use short pips on forehand. Because we are bigger people, it takes more time and effort to make a complete forehand stroke, and therefore it takes more time to recover. You should search for videos of Mattias Falck -- he is the tallest player in the professional league and he uses short pips on the forehand for this reason.

Playing short pips on the forehand is a good strategy for tall players who are backhand dominant. You can see that Mattias Falck uses his backhand to create spin, and uses his forehand to slap the ball. If you have a good backhand and you can create spin with the backhand then this is a good setup.

However, if you are forehand dominant, then it may be a better idea to use smooth rubber on the forehand.

Palio 03 - 4 layers of thin carbon

I would advise you to stay away from carbon blades for at least one year.

I don't know if Big Dipper doesn't limit my development? I'm already getting the hang of it and I think it's a great rubber. I don't know if it's worth going back to softer rubbers, e.g. Mercury II? Wouldn't it be better to take Jupiter, which is not tensor but strong?

Big Dipper and Jupiter are both good options. Mercury is fine, but lower quality. If you are looking to increase the speed, you should look for a faster blade instead of faster rubbers. If the speed of the rubbers is really bothering you, you can boost with Haifu Seamoon or Falco Tempo Long (available on ali express).

Based on what you have said, I would recommend the following racket:
- Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Black
- Friendship 802-40 forehand (short pips)
- Yinhe Big Dipper backhand (smooth)

If you don't want to play with pips, you can always replace it with another Big Dipper. Or Jupiter 3. Good luck!

 

[Przemooo]

Tibhar Samsononv Force Pro Black Edition is very much on my mind, but it has a low throw angle, is quite stiff and fast, so for now I was thinking more about the Blue version - also a large handle but thinner and more flexible. Or Powerwood. However, comparing Powerwood to Blue, apparently the latter is better balanced and a bit faster. It would be some kind of solution for my back so that it doesn't twist so much. However, I hope that after a few months of training, the body will adapt. So far, I've been doing big twists and it was ok. However, I feel that I can handle something faster. It's not that bad anyway, so don't worry! I can still bend to some extent, but I would prefer to put in less effort and have a stronger hit - that's why I'm looking for something faster, but not very fast and uncontrolled. Unless my skills (see the videos) allow me to switch to 7 layers. I wouldn't want pips. I have a good BH and FH, recently I worked a lot on BH and improved it a lot, although it was my weak point. Now it is probably better than FH.

My current goals are:

- play on the current one for 3 months or longer. Some people grease the rubbers with baby oil and it becomes stronger?
- check fextre 5 if koto/spruce suits me
- check fextre 7 and u-2 if koto or limba suits me, only then buy other boards
- optionally buy now: Powerwood or Samsonov Blue/Black (most interesting to me)

Alternatively, what I'm considering the most (EJ can't rest):

5 layers
Powerwood or Xiom Offensive S/Allround S

Or 7 layers:
Tibhar Samsononv Force Pro (blue)
Xiom Solo
donic persson power play (powerplay)
Tibhar Samsononv Force Pro Black Edition will probably be much too fast, I've only been playing for 3 months and I'm an amateur. However, mentally I feel that I could understand towards Black/Blue.

Maybe to start with, try slower 7-layer boards, which I've already bought? U-2 (in China beginners play this in schools apparently) and Fextra 7. Both have nice thick grips and are probably slower than Black. And then possibly go even further (in 2-3 years) to Black or Pro 01 or Sanwei 75 inner, which I already bought and I'm excited about them, that motivates me.

 

[Przemooo]

Szybszy sprzęt może pomóc, ale jeśli nie możesz wykonać nim pełnego ruchu obrotowego, będzie on wydawał się bardzo niekontrolowany. Lepszym rozwiązaniem byłoby użycie krótkich czopów na forehandzie, aby nie musieć wykonywać dużego, obrotowego uderzenia. Albo może lepiej będzie użyć krótkich czopów na backhandzie — w zależności od tego, jak się czujesz. Warto spróbować czopów, ponieważ pomagają one wielu osobom radzić sobie z kontuzjami.



Mając duże dłonie i będąc dużym graczem, poleciłbym Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Black. Jestem również dużym facetem, około 195 cm. Clipper to kolejny dobry wybór, trochę szybszy niż Samsonov Black. Większość ostrzy Stiga będzie pasować większym osobom. Możesz również wypróbować Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive.

Bycie dużym człowiekiem to kolejny powód, dla którego należy używać krótkich czopów na forehandzie. Ponieważ jesteśmy większymi ludźmi, potrzeba więcej czasu i wysiłku, aby wykonać kompletne uderzenie forehandem, a zatem potrzeba więcej czasu na regenerację. Powinieneś poszukać filmów Mattiasa Falcka — jest najwyższym graczem w lidze zawodowej i z tego powodu używa krótkich czopów na forehandzie.

Granie krótkich pipsów na forehandzie to dobra strategia dla wysokich graczy, którzy dominują backhandem. Jak widać, Mattias Falck używa swojego backhandu do tworzenia rotacji, a forehandu do uderzania piłki. Jeśli masz dobry backhand i potrafisz tworzyć rotację backhandem, to jest to dobra konfiguracja.

Jeśli jednak masz dominującą grę forehandową, lepszym pomysłem może okazać się użycie gładkiej gumy na forehand.


Radzę unikać ostrzy węglowych przez co najmniej rok.



Big Dipper i Jupiter to dobre opcje. Mercury jest w porządku, ale gorszej jakości. Jeśli chcesz zwiększyć prędkość, powinieneś poszukać szybszej deski zamiast szybszych gumek. Jeśli prędkość gumek naprawdę Cię denerwuje, możesz zwiększyć prędkość za pomocą Haifu Seamoon lub Falco Tempo Long (dostępne na ali express).

Na podstawie tego co powiedziałeś, poleciłbym następującą rakietę:
-Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Czarny
- Friendship 802-40 forehand (krótkie czopy)
- Yinhe Big Dipper backhand (gładki)

Jeśli nie chcesz grać z pipsami, zawsze możesz zastąpić go innym Big Dipperem. Albo Jupiterem 3. Powodzenia!

To be honest I didn't think about pimples at this stage of development (3 months of playing), but I read about this rubber and it's amazing.

But what, give me a pimple? That I don't have to swing hard?

And would a pimple be advisable for BH as well? I read about Waran, do you recommend it?

I'm a bit worried about the weight of Yinhe pro 01 - 92.7g and Fextra 91.7. Although this weight also supposedly gives more gears and power. And I'll still go for light rubbers, like Palio or Big Dipper, which are light. In the future, maybe Fastarc G-1 which is supposedly amazing for FH and Xioma rubbers - especially Vega Europe, because they are also light. So ultimately I would have a weight of about 90g board + 90g these rubbers is 180g. I wouldn't want more, although I have a second 03b board that weighs 185g and doesn't go headfirst and doesn't seem heavy, so I guess it all depends on the balance. Great that your pimple weighs only 28g, that's amazing!
Another question is whether the Black edition isn't too big a leap forward? As many people complain about this board as recommend it. It's rather demanding. Am I ready for it? Does it go headfirst? Powerwood, many people write that it goes headfirst, I'd rather avoid that.

 

[Przemooo]

friendship is a version of pip and mystery 3. which one do you recommend and what hardness?

 

[greenbeanmachine]

To be honest I didn't think about pimples at this stage of development (3 months of playing), but I read about this rubber and it's amazing.

That's a good point, maybe it is too early to think about pimples. But if you have a good reason, it's never too early.

But what, give me a pimple? That I don't have to swing hard?

It is not so much about swinging hard, but rather swinging with a big stroke. Pips let you swing with a smaller stroke. You can still swing hard with pips and this is quite effective. There are other reasons for using pips besides the swing -- pips are useful for speed and strategic play. They can give very disruptive balls to the opponent.

See: Mattias Falck and Wang Zengyi swinging hard with pips on forehand:

And would a pimple be advisable for BH as well?

There are different reasons for using pimples on backhand compared to forehand. Of course, if a player wants to be disruptive then pimples is always a good option, but players will choose where to put the pimples based on strengths and weaknesses. Using pips on backhand is usually for defense (blocking and chopping) whereas using pimples on forehand is usually for attacking.

When a player uses pimples on the backhand, it's often because they find it hard to create topspin with the backhand, and they want to transform their backhand into a short punching stroke or into a chop.

Using pips on the forehand is less common, but many of the people who use pimples on the forehand are large, meaning it will take them a long time to swing and recover from the swing. Bigger people are also more capable of covering the whole table with the backhand, so we can still play topspin from most of the table. Mattias Falck is a good example of this -- and he has a very deadly forehand attack.

If you can play good topspins with your backhand, I wouldn't recommend putting pips on backhand. If you are having difficulty playing fast enough with the forehand, pips is a good option. You can try both and see what you like. And 802-40 is not so expensive, so if you don't like it you haven't gone bankrupt.

I read about Waran, do you recommend it?

I tried Waran and it was not my favorite. I would not recommend it for someone who is just learning to use pimples. The pimples which are friendly to beginners are those which are similar to inverted rubber and allow you to create your own spin -- Spinfire, Rakza PO, Spinpips, and 802-40. Personally I like 802-40 and you can find it for cheap on Ali Express.

If you become comfortable with the beginner pips and decide that you enjoy the effect of the pips, you can try something more advanced like Waran or Spectol or Killer.

@The Pong Professor uses Waran II on his backhand (I believe) and might have some better advice about it.

Another question is whether the Black edition isn't too big a leap forward? As many people complain about this board as recommend it. It's rather demanding. Am I ready for it? Does it go headfirst? Powerwood, many people write that it goes headfirst, I'd rather avoid that.

Yes, Black edition might be too much. By headfirst you mean weighted towards the head? It is less head-heavy than Powerwood, but has a pretty big head overall. Butterfly Korbel is less head-heavy I think.

friendship is a version of pip and mystery 3. which one do you recommend and what hardness?

Friendship is the name of the brand, and they make a pip called 802-40 Mystery III. I like the red colored one, with 40 degrees hardness.

 

[Przemooo]

ok, zamowilem.
dodales fajne filmy, na których widze o co chodzi. mala sila, a duza moc, tak? odwrócona rotacja jednak podobno nie dziala w friendship.
ktorą deskę bys polecil do czopa? moja aktualna 03b moze byc za miekka. jest ayous świerk ayous. jest dość elastyczna. grubość 6,5mm więc jest dość gruba.
lepiej moze 7 warstwowa deska sztywniejsza? gdzieś ktos pisal, może Ty, że do czopa lepiej średnio twarda i twarda deska.
ktorą z moich byś polecil. u-2 lub fextra 7?
czy w przyszłości pro 01 i sanwei inner beda dobre do czopa?
chce zamowic jeszcze sanwei pro v5, bo ma super opinie i ma dobre wyważenie i gruba rączkę.
a slyszales cos o sanwei vita pro? ponoc podobna do Sanwei Parla - 7 warstw drewna. ktore deski jeszcze lubisz i cenisz, a nie sa zbyt drogie?
z drogich mysle o hugo hal, viscaria lub do Waldner OFF World Champion 89, ale to w przyszłości.
Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive czytałem dużo świetnych opinii, ale podobno trzeba też dużo mocy włożyć w uderzenie. Świetna deska się wydaje. Podobno podobna szybkość do Powerwood Tibhar, ale nieco gorsze czucie od niego. No i Powerwood bardziej elastyczny. Który lepszy do czopa lub właśnie mocy? Czy ma lin nie idzie na główkę?
Sam widzę że wolę wyważone deski, a takie są te co kupiłem bo mają dość grubą i cięższą raczkę - takich rakietek szukam. Viscaria ponoć trochę idzie na główkę.
Sam czym grasz? Które deski są super wg Ciebie z dużą rączka i wyważeniem ?

 

[Przemooo]

correct message in English (translator):

ok, I ordered it.

you added some cool videos where I can see what it's all about. low power, but high power, right? reverse rotation apparently doesn't work in friendship though.

which board would you recommend for a tenon? my current 03b might be too soft. it's ayous spruce ayous. it's quite flexible. 6.5mm thick so it's quite thick.
maybe a stiffer 7-layer board would be better? someone wrote somewhere, maybe you, that a medium-hard and hard board is better for a tenon.

which of mine would you recommend. u-2 or fextra 7?
will pro 01 and sanwei inner be good for a tenon in the future?
i want to order sanwei pro v5 too, because it has great reviews and has good balance and a thick handle.
and have you heard anything about sanwei vita pro? Supposedly similar to Sanwei Parla - 7 layers of wood. Which other blades do you like and appreciate that aren't too expensive?
From the expensive ones I'm thinking about Hugo Hal, Viscaria or Waldner OFF World Champion 89, but that's for the future.
I've read a lot of great opinions about Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive, but apparently you also have to put a lot of power into the hit. It seems like a great blade. Supposedly similar speed to Powerwood Tibhar, but a slightly worse feel. And Powerwood is more flexible. Which one is better for pips or power? Doesn't Ma Lin go to the head?
I can see that I prefer balanced blades, and these are the ones I bought because they have a fairly thick and heavier handle - I'm looking for such rackets. Viscaria supposedly goes to the head a bit.
What do you play with? Which blades are great in your opinion with a large handle and balance?

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Could you comment on what changes to make to my equipment, or maybe not change anything at all and for how long?

I would be grateful.

Is the recording ok or would you prefer a recording from the table?

First advice, Hopefully you do not practice like that and just did it to try and show you hitting the ball. If you do practice as in those videos, do not continue. That will give you tons of bad habits that I can see in the video from how close you are and how you are taking the ball off the rebound board.

Second: if you are only playing for a short time IGNORE THE ADVICE OF PEOPLE TELLING YOU to use pips when you are only playing for a short time.

Just use what you have.

Equipment is not the important thing. Practice. Maybe get some coaching. If a coach sees something in your playing that makes him/her think you should use pips, that is different than some random person on the internet looking at video of you with a rebound board and no table for the ball to bounce on, who is giving advice based on why he thinks Mattias Falck uses pips.

There are times to learn to use pips.

Perhaps when you post actual footage of you hitting a ball vs a human I will have a different opinion.

Equipment is not as important as practice.

Get one setup and play with that one setup and pretty much only use that. You can test other people's equipment for a few minutes to see how it feels. But train with one setup for a while. Get proficient at FH counterhitting (so you can do a few 100 in a row without missing); get proficient with the same with BH counterhitting; get proficient with FH looping (so you are able to land 40-60 in a row without missing while someone solid and consistent is blocking for you; same with BH loop but maybe 20-30 in a row without missing; learn to push well from FH and BH; maybe learn the basics of chopping.

Whenever you want you can show footage of you at a table hitting vs a real human being for us to see your strokes. If it is with a robot or a rebound board, the ball has to bounce on a table and it would be worth us seing your shot land on the table on the other side. But with a human is preferable for assessing equipment needs.

It would also not be a bad idea for there to be footage of a game or two from a match.

But if you have nothing else, 3 or 4 BH and 3 or 4 FH on a table hitting a ball from a human would be helpful.

Based on what I saw in the videos you posted above, the only thing I can say is that you should not practice in that manner. It will give you many many bad habits.

I am sorry this sounds critical. I don't mean it that way. I just don't want you to mess your technique up so early in your adventure with table tennis. And the footage above will only mess up your technique and cause you to use only your arm in all your strokes while standing way to upright.

I do wish you the best of luck and want you to keep playing and learn to practice in a way that will be useful to your improvement.

 

[Przemooo]

First advice, Hopefully you do not practice like that and just did it to try and show you hitting the ball. If you do practice as in those videos, do not continue. That will give you tons of bad habits that I can see in the video from how close you are and how you are taking the ball off the rebound board.

Second: if you are only playing for a short time IGNORE THE ADVICE OF PEOPLE TELLING YOU to use pips when you are only playing for a short time.

Just use what you have.

Equipment is not the important thing. Practice. Maybe get some coaching. If a coach sees something in your playing that makes him/her think you should use pips, that is different than some random person on the internet looking at video of you with a rebound board and no table for the ball to bounce on, who is giving advice based on why he thinks Mattias Falck uses pips.

There are times to learn to use pips.

Perhaps when you post actual footage of you hitting a ball vs a human I will have a different opinion.

Equipment is not as important as practice.

Get one setup and play with that one setup and pretty much only use that. You can test other people's equipment for a few minutes to see how it feels. But train with one setup for a while. Get proficient at FH counterhitting (so you can do a few 100 in a row without missing); get proficient with the same with BH counterhitting; get proficient with FH looping (so you are able to land 40-60 in a row without missing while someone solid and consistent is blocking for you; same with BH loop but maybe 20-30 in a row without missing; learn to push well from FH and BH; maybe learn the basics of chopping.

Whenever you want you can show footage of you at a table hitting vs a real human being for us to see your strokes. If it is with a robot or a rebound board, the ball has to bounce on a table and it would be worth us seing your shot land on the table on the other side. But with a human is preferable for assessing equipment needs.

It would also not be a bad idea for there to be footage of a game or two from a match.

But if you have nothing else, 3 or 4 BH and 3 or 4 FH on a table hitting a ball from a human would be helpful.

Based on what I saw in the videos you posted above, the only thing I can say is that you should not practice in that manner. It will give you many many bad habits.

I am sorry this sounds critical. I don't mean it that way. I just don't want you to mess your technique up so early in your adventure with table tennis. And the footage above will only mess up your technique and cause you to use only your arm in all your strokes while standing way to upright.

I do wish you the best of luck and want you to keep playing and learn to practice in a way that will be useful to your improvement.

I will honestly say that thanks to these exercises at home I have greatly improved my BH and I have gained a feel for the racket. I can hit a lot of balls with BH, and before I was afraid or it didn't work. Unfortunately, because of playing at home and very strong hits (unnatural and with all my strength), I strained my back and abdominal muscles. Because of this I have had a break for 2 weeks .
I train 3 times a week, but I would like to move forward faster, so I play at home. I see no reason to give it up, because I see that it develops me. Yes, I stand still, but in a match there is also no time to change position and you have to hit from the spot. Should I stop completely?

I have a coach, so I will ask him to pay more attention. The coach trains children but he is experienced, so I will ask him to play more set pieces. At the moment we play one-on-one matches, and supposedly this does not develop so much.
Thanks for the answer and tips. I appreciate it.
Ok, I will arrange a recording as soon as I recover and return to training

I will start a new thread then.

However, if you could comment on the equipment, what blades and rubbers do you particularly recommend for the beginning for maximum development? In many threads you recommend Stiga Evolution. It needs a bigger grip and good balance. I hate it when the racket goes to head.
What do you think about Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive and Powerwood?
I'm also thinking about Tibhar Samsonov force pro and donic person powerplay as my next rackets for next year.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

You would be much better off practicing self hitting (on a table) and shadow strokes with footwork while looking in a mirror.

What you are doing may have worked for the initial cause of getting yourself to feel how to contact when hitting a BH. But if you watch your FH shots, most of them, your body is turned to your BH so you are forced to swing with too much arm and an awkward body motion. And, since there is no table, no ball bouncing on a table, you are taking the ball from positions that could not happen after a bounce on a table. The height of some of those balls is forcing you to come upright. The only shots you would ever take from a height like that would be lobs and they would have a completely different trajectory. They would not be coming straight at you.

It is also not how you would ever time or receive a ball. You are training something that cannot ever happen in a match.

In the end, you can do what you want, but what you are doing with that rebound board will cause you to have some bad habits and you may not know they are bad habits because they work with the rebound board.

If your equipment is not drastically too fast or too slow for you, it is fine. Use what you have. Pick ONE THING.

I cannot make any further comment on what you are using because I would have to see YOU USING IT IN ACTUAL PLAY to see if it is too slow, too fast, useful, not useful.....I would need to see how you contact the ball, the speed and trajectory of your shots, the amount of spin you are getting, how often your shots land on the table, how consistent your placement is, how often you mishit, how often the ball flies off in unexpected directions.

I want shoes for playing soccer (futbol). Can you tell me what sized shoes I should get?

For me to tell you about how well your equipment suits you without seeing you use it on a table in actual play, is actually equivalent to me trying to tell you what size shoes you should wear without measuring your feet. I cannot see what the equipment is causing you to do and how well adjusted (or not) to the equipment you are.

And if you have a coach, one thing you can ask him is if he feels that what you are using is well suited to your needs. He will know better than someone who has not seen you play.

Be careful about taking advice from random people on the internet. Whether the equipment suits you has everything to do with what is happening as you are using it on a table.

 

[Przemooo]

You would be much better off practicing self hitting (on a table) and shadow strokes with footwork while looking in a mirror.

What you are doing may have worked for the initial cause of getting yourself to feel how to contact when hitting a BH. But if you watch your FH shots, most of them, your body is turned to your BH so you are forced to swing with too much arm and an awkward body motion. And, since there is no table, no ball bouncing on a table, you are taking the ball from positions that could not happen after a bounce on a table. The height of some of those balls is forcing you to come upright. The only shots you would ever take from a height like that would be lobs and they would have a completely different trajectory. They would not be coming straight at you.

It is also not how you would ever time or receive a ball. You are training something that cannot ever happen in a match.

In the end, you can do what you want, but what you are doing with that rebound board will cause you to have some bad habits and you may not know they are bad habits because they work with the rebound board.

If your equipment is not drastically too fast or too slow for you, it is fine. Use what you have. Pick ONE THING.

I cannot make any further comment on what you are using because I would have to see YOU USING IT IN ACTUAL PLAY to see if it is too slow, too fast, useful, not useful.....I would need to see how you contact the ball, the speed and trajectory of your shots, the amount of spin you are getting, how often your shots land on the table, how consistent your placement is, how often you mishit, how often the ball flies off in unexpected directions.

I want shoes for playing soccer (futbol). Can you tell me what sized shoes I should get?

For me to tell you about how well your equipment suits you without seeing you use it on a table in actual play, is actually equivalent to me trying to tell you what size shoes you should wear without measuring your feet. I cannot see what the equipment is causing you to do and how well adjusted (or not) to the equipment you are.

And if you have a coach, one thing you can ask him is if he feels that what you are using is well suited to your needs. He will know better than someone who has not seen you play.

Be careful about taking advice from random people on the internet. Whether the equipment suits you has everything to do with what is happening as you are using it on a table.

I don't have room for a real table but I can practice on a large table in the office. Also buy some cheap robot. I don't know how I can practice on my own to develop faster.

You're right about many things, these balls are unnatural, but it's still some training, better than nothing.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

In the end, if you are having fun and trying, that is something and you are doing what you can.