Importance of gluing well

[Zwill]

This I not necerally will be an advice how to glue but maybe some will take away some things that are important.

I had run out of glue, and I could only could do 2 very thin layer on sponge and on blade. The feelin of that rubber was so metallic and hollow and slow... It was a Chinese rubber. It was terrible to use.

The I reglued it properly after I got my new bottle of Suke no2, did it 2 good layers on sponge and blade too. Wouldn't call it thick layers but medium for sure.
Playing after was like using another blade and rubber completely. The rubber was quite fast, bouncy felt connected with blade. It felt deforming together with the blade just perfect.

So sometimes just a simple user made error can make a great racket into a mediocre racket at best using the very same materials. I knew my error so I could correct it immediately but for someone who only glues a racket every other year this can help not to be stingy with the glue and give it a good amount.

Granted maybe some glue acts differently, but the glues I like Suke no 2, sueke no 2, DHS no15, Nittaku Finezip, revolution no3 all need more layers to perform better.
German glues I don't know so well but I also see pro players use more layers from it.

 

[latej]

Yes, just 2 days ago I had a "heated" discussion with 2 of my club members. They discouraged me to put more layers of the glue, that it will feel wrong, won't feel the wood and what not. I was glueing new rubbers - G09C and Glayzer - for a 3rd club member - and of course I did put 2+2 layers ;-). Sometimes I do 2+3.

Anyway, they are used to euro-glues and not used to more layers. It's not their fault. After they read some description of Revo No3 they understood.

 

[Tyce]

It's basically down to what your convictions are. Is glue just a necessary evil that attaches the rubber to the blade, or is it an integral part of the whole setup?
Glues like DHS 15 can definitely be added value, if you like that kind of feeling. I don't feel like thinner glues do that in the same way.

 

[suli]

Is there a difference between gluing a Chinese rubber and euro/Japanese rubber?

 

[Colestt]

Is there a difference between gluing a Chinese rubber and euro/Japanese rubber?

The Euro/Japanese stuff is typically tuned and Chinese is traditionally not, so in that respect there would be. However increasing numbers of Chinese rubbers are tuned.

This is more about whether you can use rubber cement or if you have to use latex type glue though. Generally tuned rubbers are harder to glue and tend to shrink I find.

 

[PhoenixTT]

This I not necerally will be an advice how to glue but maybe some will take away some things that are important.

Thanks for this post. Very useful info for some of us.

I've always had the vendor glue my rubber + blade when I order, like TT1. I'm pretty sure they will just use one layer, so now I'm thinking to remove one setup and reglue it and see the effect.

I think I know the answer, but just want to be sure... when do you apply the second layer? Is it when the first is no longer tacky?

 

[Conehead]

Is it when the first is no longer tacky?

It is when the first layer of glue is transparent and there are no longer white spots of the glue visible.

 

[Tyce]

It is when the first layer of glue is transparent and there are no longer white spots of the glue visible.

Preferably a little longer so it dries further. Or at least that's what ZJK says. I'm not sure I can actually feel the difference but it sticks really well when you let it dry for longer, like half an hour extra

 

[Zwill]

Pro players wait about 30-40 minutes. In China the pros actually do 3-4 layers on the rubber and one on the blade. But I find the 2-2 better since less wait time and makes more sure all the blade is covered well with glue. 3-2 would also be a good way.

Thanks for this post. Very useful info for some of us.

I've always had the vendor glue my rubber + blade when I order, like TT1. I'm pretty sure they will just use one layer, so now I'm thinking to remove one setup and reglue it and see the effect.

I think I know the answer, but just want to be sure... when do you apply the second layer? Is it when the first is no longer tacky?

Just be careful that depending on your rubber if you remove it from the racket it might shrink to smaller size than the blade. It's very typical of German rubbers but Japanese also have it to some degree. Chinese rubbers don't really shrink.

I suspect TT11 uses some German glue and probably 1-1 layer, but I am not sure.

 

[sebi]

I use 2 on the rubber and 1 medium to thick one on the blade.

If the rubbers sockes up a lot of the glue I might use 3. And the first one would be thin.

Always make sure the rubber is completely dry (see-trough/no white spots left)

I try to not stretch the rubber when I apply it.

After I "rolled" it down so there are no air pockets I press it firmly into place.

That's how I do it.

I use DHS No.15 for me one of the best rubbers.

Glue can add speed, and with more glue you can hold the Ball longer. A bad glue job can impact the way a racket feels a lot.
Pros use different amounts of glue depending on how fast the venue is.

So glue is very important

 

[PhoenixTT]

Pro players wait about 30-40 minutes.

So for 2-2 and only for one side of the blade:

Apply first layer of glue to blade and to rubber
Wait 30-40 minutes (or using the other criteria: when the glue is transparent and no white spots)
Apply second layer of glue to blade and to rubber
Wait 30-40 minutes (or using the other criteria)
Attach rubber to blade.

 

[latej]

So for 2-2 and only for one side of the blade:

Apply first layer of glue to blade and to rubber
Wait 30-40 minutes (or using the other criteria: when the glue is transparent and no white spots)
Apply second layer of glue to blade and to rubber
Wait 30-40 minutes (or using the other criteria)
Attach rubber to blade.

Yes, you can also use hair-dryer to speed up if you need to. I prefer not to. I usually have enough time to let it dry really properly. As @Zwill says it's important... It's personal way, but if the 2nd layers are drying for 2 hours while I do something else, it's zero problemo ;-)

EDIT: Of course, my team mates, sometime is happens, they glue it right before the training, 1+1 layers, Joola Lex glue, 10 minutes done, it's also a way ;-)

 

[PhoenixTT]

Yes, you can also use hair-dryer to speed up if you need to. I prefer not to. I usually have enough time to let it dry really properly. As @Zwill says it's important... It's personal way, but if the 2nd layers are drying for 2 hours while I do something else, it's zero problemo ;-)

EDIT: Of course, my team mates, sometime is happens, they glue it right before the training, 1+1 layers, Joola Lex glue, 10 minutes done, it's also a way ;-)

I'm curious what's a time saving technique when gluing both sides of the blade.

I mean I could follow the steps I listed, for each side of the blade. To make it simplistic, assume it takes 30 mins for the glue to dry, that will take 1 hour for the forehand, then another hour for the backhand = 2 hours.

Surely I can also start gluing the backhand rubber while waiting for the forehand rubber to dry, but cannot start applying glue on the backhand face of the blade yet (because the forehand face has undried glue - I don't want that side touching the table yet), but then that means I start gluing the backhand face of the blade only after I've finished attaching the forehand side of the blade, so still 1 hour (30 mins for layer 1 + 30 mins for layer 2), but then the glue on the backhand rubber would have 'over dried'.

(Yes, I'm overthinking it. Maybe)

 

[latej]

I'm curious what's a time saving technique when gluing both sides of the blade.

I mean I could follow the steps I listed, for each side of the blade. To make it simplistic, assume it takes 30 mins for the glue to dry, that will take 1 hour for the forehand, then another hour for the backhand = 2 hours.

Surely I can also start gluing the backhand rubber while waiting for the forehand rubber to dry, but cannot start applying glue on the backhand face of the blade yet (because the forehand face has undried glue - I don't want that side touching the table yet), but then that means I start gluing the backhand face of the blade only after I've finished attaching the forehand side of the blade, so still 1 hour (30 mins for layer 1 + 30 mins for layer 2), but then the glue on the backhand rubber would have 'over dried'.

(Yes, I'm overthinking it. Maybe)

And I still didn't tell you that I wait for 6 hours before I cut the rubber ;-)

Anyway, seriously, if you want to speed up, just use the hair-dryer on "medium" temperature - not the highest. But I can't convince you, use the highest temp., just note everything will become hotter ;-) Whatever, you can speed it up that way Don't worry, things will sort ourselves...

 

[PhoenixTT]

And I still didn't tell you that I wait for 6 hours before I cut the rubber ;-)

Anyway, seriously, if you want to speed up, just use the hair-dryer on "medium" temperature

At this point, I'm more interested in the theoretical pure 'algorithm' rather than actual practical things like hairdryers.

 

[Tyce]

The best time saver is to just do it between other things. I like to glue before lunch for example, and I do a layer before doing the laundry, dishes, whatever.

 

[sebi]

And I still didn't tell you that I wait for 6 hours before I cut the rubber ;-)

Anyway, seriously, if you want to speed up, just use the hair-dryer on "medium" temperature - not the highest. But I can't convince you, use the highest temp., just note everything will become hotter ;-) Whatever, you can speed it up that way Don't worry, things will sort ourselves...

Use the hair dryer on cold. Warm or medium can change the rubber.
It speeds up the process too and is harmless that way.

The best time saver is to just do it between other things. I like to glue before lunch for example, and I do a layer before doing the laundry, dishes, whatever.

I do the same, just glueing would be a waste of time

 

[PhoenixTT]

I've seen people spread glue across the ENTIRE back of a new sheet of rubber, even areas that would never cover the blade and will be cut off anyway. (For example Timo

). Is there a reason for this?

Why wouldn't you save some glue by spreading only within the areas that will cover the blade?

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

Gluing is so important, and for some, extremely precise, ie, setting alarm clocks on when to add another layer,
everyone has they own methods, and yes, it plays differently if you do it differently.

 

[Zwill]

I've seen people spread glue across the ENTIRE back of a new sheet of rubber, even areas that would never cover the blade and will be cut off anyway. (For example Timo

). Is there a reason for this?

Why wouldn't you save some glue by spreading only within the areas that will cover the blade?

You could draw a line around your racket with a pen on your sponge and then you know how much to spread the glue. But glue is cheap and like I said before using too less is bad maybe adding extra is better and just cover the whole square.

I cover the whole thing too, it's not needed and wasteful, but I'm used to doing it so I can't undo my method.