How to boost hurricane 3 provincial 39˚ blue sponge + hurricane 3 soft 37˚

[ripctt2]

Hi I'm going to pair the mentioned rubbers on the DHS h301z blade and I don't know how many layers of booster is required. I was thinking 2 thin layers of booster on forehand and 1 thin layer backhnad all with 2 layers of glue. Except the blade. blade is still one layer of glue.
any comment?

 

[ripctt2]

Also its my first time boosting

 

[greenbeanmachine]

There's no correct answer -- you should find what feels best for you. That said, 2 thin layers FH and 1 thin layer BH is not a bad place to start.

I'd suggest one layer of glue on each side, then a medium layer of booster, then one more layer of glue. BH layer can be a little thinner. Try it out and see if you like it. If you feel content with it, keep playing with it. If it's too hard/slow, take off the rubber and boost it again.

Take it easy at first. You can always add more booster, but you can't add less booster.

 

[Hurricane AON]

Let's start with one layer. Even if it doesn't curve, it'll still perform better based on my experience.

 

[joshmak10]

one layer, wait 12 hours, then glue onto blade for each. Don’t put glue before booster because it doesn’t boost properly and don’t do more than 2 layers with your hardness rubbers because it will be way too soft

 

[ripctt2]

one layer, wait 12 hours, then glue onto blade for each. Don’t put glue before booster because it doesn’t boost properly and don’t do more than 2 layers with your hardness rubbers because it will be way too soft

Do you think 1 layer booster on hurriucane 3 soft is go9ign to make it too soft? At 37˚ hardness? I was thinkling just a tiny bit domed would be good enough, Liek maybe boost until dignics 09c speed? or just fast enough so that it isnt dead.

 

[ripctt2]

There's no correct answer -- you should find what feels best for you. That said, 2 thin layers FH and 1 thin layer BH is not a bad place to start.

I'd suggest one layer of glue on each side, then a medium layer of booster, then one more layer of glue. BH layer ca be a little thinner. Try it out and see if you like it. If you feel content with it, keep playing with it. If it's too hard/slow, take off the rubber and boost it again.

Take it easy at first. You can always add more booster, but you can't add less booster.

Apparently the DHS h301z (or any blade in the 301 line) is prone to splintering. I didnt get seal. So is there any diifference in how many layers of glue i put, as in whether it will make ti less prone to splinteirng? Apparently more glue = better adhesion = less chance of splinteirng whe nyou remove?

 

[joshmak10]

Do you think 1 layer booster on hurriucane 3 soft is go9ign to make it too soft? At 37˚ hardness? I was thinkling just a tiny bit domed would be good enough, Liek maybe boost until dignics 09c speed? or just fast enough so that it isnt dead.

No, a 37 degree hurricane is still pretty hard and definitely has room for one layer of booster. But no more than one. Just do a medium or thick layer and you will be fine

 

[greenbeanmachine]

one layer, wait 12 hours, then glue onto blade for each. Don’t put glue before booster because it doesn’t boost properly and don’t do more than 2 layers with your hardness rubbers because it will be way too soft

Glue will slow the absorption of booster, making it less potent but lasting longer. Up to you to try it with or without glue. If you use DHS rubbers for a long time, you can try both techniques and see which one you prefer. Definitely put glue on top of the booster though.

For glue you should use DHS no15 or Nittaku Finezip. They work well with booster and they can be easily removed from the sponge if you want to peel off the rubber and reboost.

 

[ripctt2]

No, a 37 degree hurricane is still pretty hard and definitely has room for one layer of booster. But no more than one. Just do a medium or thick layer and you will be fine

Thanks. But what determines like thick or thin or medium layer? Like imn assuming thin = waiting for most ofhte booster to drop fromthe brush, medium = waityinf for half to drop, and thick is like as ssona s yout ake it out, dont wait for any to drip off?z
Edit: after reading every1's suggestions, I wqs thinking maybe 1 medium layer backhand and either 2 thin layers forehand or 2 medium layers? I want to try and get it right first try becuase I don't want to peel my rubbers opff and risk splintering the blade.

 

[joshmak10]

Thanks. But what determines like thick or thin or medium layer? Like imn assuming thin = waiting for most ofhte booster to drop fromthe brush, medium = waityinf for half to drop, and thick is like as ssona s yout ake it out, dont wait for any to drip off?z
Edit: after reading every1's suggestions, I wqs thinking maybe 1 medium layer backhand and either 2 thin layers forehand or 2 medium layers? I want to try and get it right first try becuase I don't want to peel my rubbers opff and risk splintering the blade.

There’s no real definition of what a thick or thin layer is. It’s all dependent on your eye. Everyone is different with boosting. Just do some experimenting and have fun

 

[ripctt2]

There’s no real definition of what a thick or thin layer is. It’s all dependent on your eye. Everyone is different with boosting. Just do some experimenting and have fun

If i decice that I want to reboost my rubbers do i have to somehow get rid of the glue layer and then boost it or is it fine to boost with the glue layer there and then do i have to reapply glue.

 

[joshmak10]

If i decice that I want to reboost my rubbers do i have to somehow get rid of the glue layer and then boost it or is it fine to boost with the glue layer there and then do i have to reapply glue.

You need to remove the glue layer first to reboost so that the oil absorbs properly

 

[ripctt2]

You need to remove the glue layer first to reboost so that the oil absorbs properly

Like you could just peel the glue off? Also is it fine if i just like boost it to the point where the forehand rubber domes like halfway (not super domed) and the backhand rubber slightly domed? Also its also my first ime glueing.

 

[greenbeanmachine]

Thanks. But what determines like thick or thin or medium layer? Like imn assuming thin = waiting for most ofhte booster to drop fromthe brush, medium = waityinf for half to drop, and thick is like as ssona s yout ake it out, dont wait for any to drip off?z

A thin layer of booster is when you make the brush as dry as possible, dip it just a bit at a time, and then spread the booster so that there's barely enough to wet the entire surface of the sponge.

A thick layer of booster is the thickest you can spread it evenly across the surface of the sponge. If you can't spread the booster evenly, that's too much booster and you should brush the excess off of the sponge.

Same goes for glue. If you can't spread it evenly, it's too thick.

Like you could just peel the glue off?

Yes -- DHS No15 and Nittaku Finezip will peel off in one clean piece. These are the glues to use if you want to reglue rubbers. Here is a video of a clean peel (I think it is DHS glue):

https://www.reddit.com/r/tabletennis/comments/1ee2g1z

Here is a video of a very unclean peel:

Most glues besides the two I mentioned will stick to the sponge more -- you can't peel them off very effectively and it might rip up your sponge if you try to peel it. It's fine to use them as long as you only want to glue your rubbers once.

If i decice that I want to reboost my rubbers do i have to somehow get rid of the glue layer and then boost it or is it fine to boost with the glue layer there and then do i have to reapply glue.

You should peel the glue off any time you reglue your rubber, even if you don't reboost it. Peeling the rubber off your racket will usually create some bubbles in the glue layer, which can cause inconsistent playing if you try to use that glue layer again.

 

[joshmak10]

Like you could just peel the glue off? Also is it fine if i just like boost it to the point where the forehand rubber domes like halfway (not super domed) and the backhand rubber slightly domed? Also its also my first ime glueing.

Yeah just peel it off slowly and carefully to not damage the sponge. Reboost however u want. This is up to your personal feeling

 

[thisisit]

If i decice that I want to reboost my rubbers do i have to somehow get rid of the glue layer and then boost it or is it fine to boost with the glue layer there and then do i have to reapply glue.

if you use glues that are mostly latex(the ones that peel off easily) and the glue layer is intact, you don't need to remove it from the sponge. the booster molecules(be it paraffin or ester oil based) are much smaller than the latex molecules => booster goes through the glue layer like water through a sieve.

 

[ripctt2]

A thin layer of booster is when you make the brush as dry as possible, dip it just a bit at a time, and then spread the booster so that there's barely enough to wet the entire surface of the sponge.

A thick layer of booster is the thickest you can spread it evenly across the surface of the sponge. If you can't spread the booster evenly, that's too much booster and you should brush the excess off of the sponge.

Same goes for glue. If you can't spread it evenly, it's too thick.


Yes -- DHS No15 and Nittaku Finezip will peel off in one clean piece. These are the glues to use if you want to reglue rubbers. Here is a video of a clean peel (I think it is DHS glue):

https://www.reddit.com/r/tabletennis/comments/1ee2g1z

Here is a video of a very unclean peel:

Most glues besides the two I mentioned will stick to the sponge more -- you can't peel them off very effectively and it might rip up your sponge if you try to peel it. It's fine to use them as long as you only want to glue your rubbers once.


You should peel the glue off any time you reglue your rubber, even if you don't reboost it. Peeling the rubber off your racket will usually create some bubbles in the glue layer, which can cause inconsistent playing if you try to use that glue layer again.

When boosting, should I remove the plastic protector on the topsheet or keep it there? removing the protector on the sponge is quite obvious. But i dont want booster getting on the tacky topsheet. but apparently not taking it off means it wont boost properly?

 

[piligrim]

When boosting, should I remove the plastic protector on the topsheet or keep it there? removing the protector on the sponge is quite obvious. But i dont want booster getting on the tacky topsheet. but apparently not taking it off means it wont boost properly?

Yes, you have to remove plastic protector

 

[thisisit]

When boosting, should I remove the plastic protector on the topsheet or keep it there? removing the protector on the sponge is quite obvious. But i dont want booster getting on the tacky topsheet. but apparently not taking it off means it wont boost properly?

it doesn't matter. doming is a side effect of boosting. if you leave it on, you get less of a dome on your rubber because that protective sheet adds to the elastic deformation resistance of the rubber, but the effect you get from the booster is purely a consequence of the booster seeping into the sponge.

believing that those PE sheets influence the outcome of treating the sponge with booster is like thinking your cold won't last as long because you bought tissue paper.

leaving the protective sheet there until you cut the rubber to size is safer, but it doesn't influence the outcome of the effect of booster applied to the sponge.