Looking for a Fh Rubber

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No i refer to H3N. I used H3 before and I dont like it as much. It comes veeery slightly boosted from factory so it lasts 1-2 sessions max, then it's a normal H3, so that's why you need to boost.

For me, I learnt with 729 and then H3N from the chinese at my club, they said all kids in china do this and learn good, so I should follow. Nowadays I agree with this and I promote it too. Once you learn how to hit-brush with a hard chinese tacky rubber (and you will need to learn, otherwise you dont progress), you want nothing else.

So yes, its harder to learn but once you learn its really fantastic and so cheap, such value for the price.

All this said, not everybody has the body or wants to learn the chinese way, that's fine, I teach people at the club the other way too, but it needs different gear and different ways, and produces different results. As long as people are happy, progress, and dont get injured, Im good.
sure send me dm


Do you think it's because you learn to loop with a dead sponge? I don't know how the chinese kids do it. I still don't quite believe it unless they have special boosting that we don't know because kids have even less power. Especially at early stages. I remember a video where they were talking about LYJ would not even be top 20 or something if he was to use h3n on the fh. That even someone for his caliber needs something faster.

I personally think h3n gets more and more outdated especially without coaching. And if you have a coach then you can also play with a d09c type of rubber it doesn't matter. But this is just a personal opinion so take it take it with a grain of salt.
 
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sure send me dm


Do you think it's because you learn to loop with a dead sponge? I don't know how the chinese kids do it. I still don't quite believe it unless they have special boosting that we don't know because kids have even less power. Especially at early stages. I remember a video where they were talking about LYJ would not even be top 20 or something if he was to use h3n on the fh. That even someone for his caliber needs something faster.

I personally think h3n gets more and more outdated especially without coaching. And if you have a coach then you can also play with a d09c type of rubber it doesn't matter. But this is just a personal opinion so take it take it with a grain of salt.
I ll send a DM and I can show in a call live what I mean about hit-brush, without this a chinese rubber doesn't work.

And this is in my opinion exactly the secret. If you give a kid a normal H3N and boost if once or twice and then teach them the right technique is easy. You can easily penetrate the sponge like that, specially a 39 orange sponge or 37/38 if they are smaller. I mean it when I say that I don't need a carbon blade, I have one and I enjoy it, but on the PG7 or an acoustic, whenever I do a good FH loop (not always, still developing the rhythm, it's hard! otherwise id play nationally haha) then very few balls come back on the table, and this is against national players in our club.

They key really is how to recoil inwards (not to the side) with the arm fully relaxed next to your body (the wipe butt motion), and then whip (explode) it forward with focus on the index finger in a semi circular motion outwards/inward-forward. Important for this way of playing: at no moment special focus should be on the arm and specially not the forearm, index finger leads the arm and does the job. You can't launch the index finger without launching the arm, so that's the principle :) But where you put the focus makes a lot of difference!

Anyways, sorry long message, that's it. And if you do this correctly, body produces the arch so then a high throw rubber is not needed.

Ps. Yes I heard about LYJ once indeed, I don't think I can comment on why that is, I have my thoughts but he is a pro and I'm not so better keep those to myself, I'm likely wrong :)
 
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sure send me dm


Do you think it's because you learn to loop with a dead sponge? I don't know how the chinese kids do it. I still don't quite believe it unless they have special boosting that we don't know because kids have even less power. Especially at early stages. I remember a video where they were talking about LYJ would not even be top 20 or something if he was to use h3n on the fh. That even someone for his caliber needs something faster.

I personally think h3n gets more and more outdated especially without coaching. And if you have a coach then you can also play with a d09c type of rubber it doesn't matter. But this is just a personal opinion so take it take it with a grain of salt.
There are many top women players who use H3. They are not physically stronger than most guys. It's all technique.
 
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I'm not a coach's armpit frankly, but I do know quite a bit about how blades and technique interact.

I'd like to offer you my own perspective (for whatever it's worth) as a blade maker.

Based purely on your comments and videos, I suspect:

- your current set up has too much catapult -based speed, or

-your earlier learner set ups had too much catapult derived speed.

Either way, my instincts is equipment issues are definitely at least part of your problem.

Your FH stroke mechanics frankly aren't the worst I've seen, but they are also not creating all the power & spin for you they potentially could.

What seems most clear to me is there's a disconnect / inconsistency between your body mechanics and the ball's trajectory during both practice and play, and you seem to be relying on your FH rubber too much to provide both return speed and quality (those tentative FH block shots during play, the variable FH loop trajectory height & length during training, and your slightly late timing on the FH loop (making contact almost beside your body instead of slightly in front of you) are all telltale signs to me of you trying to accommodate your Dignics high levels of rubber catapult by modifying your stroke technique).

I.e.: In other words, it appears you've possibly learnt some bad habits that you now need to un-learn, or at least modify.

- your instinct to change to a more linear set up feels right to me. Going by your comments however, you are still wedded to catapult-based speed in your game, which is most likely a big part of the problem.

I therefore recommend you merely reduce your current set up's catapult speed considerably, rather than eliminate it all together.

--In addition to getting a really good technique coach (the most important change you can make!!) I suggest you at least consider the following equipment changes as well.

- Keep the Peter Korbel blade for now, it's a good blade for this particular exercise.

- team it with a far more linear FH rubber, that has only *partial* catapult/tensor-like bounce & speed.

- Choose a rubber which also has medium to mid-high density sponge, and a Topsheet that still has good spin potential.

- Dead H3 sponge may be too drastic a change -- you really need to find a mid point between H3 and Tensor sponge that gives you a larger margin for error.)

- Consider choosing something more towards the H3 side of the equation though, rather than on the ESN tensor side, or in the absolute middle. If the rubber is too springy, you won't modify your stroke as much to add power and finesse it's currently missing.

- Avoid high throw rubbers. You need to transfer power forwards a bit more I suspect, and bring your FH arm swing vector a bit more in line with the ball's trajectory. High throw rubbers are safer yes, but you need to be more aware than you currently seem to be, of what your arm, bat, weight shift and body rotation are all doing to the ball's trajectory, velocity and rotation. High throw rubbers help remove the need to be discriminating with your technique. Lower throw rubbers however tell you right away if you're doing something wrong.

- In terms of price and haptic feedback levels, cheaper, lower mid-tier, all-round & semi-linear Chinese rubbers are your friend here

A few possible options include:

---- 729 Focus 3 in max
---- Tuttle Beijing 4 in Max
---- Loki Rxton 3 Pink or Blue in Max (Maybe even a Rxton 3 Pro, but I suspect that will be too slowand H3-like for you. The R3Blue is probably the best option out of these due to its extra pop from the sponge).

Other possibilities include:

- Yasaka Rigan Spin in Max (a really brilliant top sheet! Fantastic Spin, Moderate speed, very good control, plus it bottoms out reasonably easily, which is possibly a good thing for you right now, as you need to be a bit more aware of what's happening at impact)

- Xiom Vega Europe / Pro / X (but nothing faster that the X! Again, it's your stroke that needs to do the heavy lifting in terms of generating quality, not your rubber.)

- Yasaka Rakza 7 (yes I know - I read your comments on this rubber -- some may say it's still too fast. But it's a high quality option regardless. Once you get your FH power generation a bit more aligned behind the ball (ie: more along its approach vector) the R7 should be plenty fast enough.

As you seem to be looking to the rubber to provide stroke quality, I suspect this means that with your forehand, you're probably always chasing just the right timing point, and just the right amount of brush on your FH loops. Am I correct?

Given the speed of the game however, this is a flawed model -- It's impossible to modify your timing quickly enough to adjust to every return. Your tentative reaction to sudden speed changes on your FH would support this -- in such circumstances you don't know how hard to hit the ball, as you're not certain where it will land.)

If your FH stroke technique is ingrained properly however, and your reflexes are on point, then tempo changes like these by your opponent aren't such an issue. Once these changes are made, your returns will land advantageously on your opponent's side of the table anyway, and will do so long before you've even realise you've hit a return.

Once you get your stroke dynamics right, *both* ball timing and gauging the right levels of brush become largely instinctive -- but right now your game and comments suggest you're miles away from that.

All these equipment suggestions I've made are meant to facilitate you making some FH stroke adjustments, as opposed to boosting performance.

I really suspect (as do several other posters) that you need to consider being far less focussed on taming/maximising your FH rubber. Instead, you should get far more in touch with letting your rubber augment the natural power and quality that should be inherent to your game.

Long story short, there are countless other similar / more linear rubbers you could try really... but the brand and make of rubber you choose are partially irrelevant, as it's not about the rubber.
As a player, you're not there augmenting your rubber's inherent spin and speed potential -- it's always the other way around.

In my opinion, what matters most with your rubber choice right now, is that it helps you adjust your stroke, by:

---- having catapult speed a good site lower than you get with Butterfly / ESN , and;

--- it's sponge should be on the denser side: this sends more feedback through your Korbel down to your hand, which allows all the deep-tissue / haptic / proprioception neurons located in your hand, arm, and shoulder to get more sensory feedback about ball impact forces via the blade;

- plus you still need a little catapult effect to the rubber, so that the changes aren't too drastic to adjust to... as this can also potentially act against your development.

...all the rest should be largely immaterial.

The extra feedback and sensory-data these sorts of rubbers will provide you, can help your senses better integrate your FH stroke and power generation motions with your ball impact dynamics, and thereby use the former to influence the latter.

Hope this helps. Good luck with it 🙂
I got the loki rxton 3 blue 2,1max for my birthday now. But I am quite happy with the t19 for now. I will give it a try once I need to change my rubbers again. I dont know how long the t19 will last..
Man that rubber stinks hard. Not sure where to stock it till then.
Does it need boosting?
 
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This thread could have ended with one page. What FH rubber to choose? Namely:
  1. D09C if you love dominating fast attack close to table or on the table quick loop ala CNT flavour.
  2. D05 if you love to loop here and there, running around the table for great cardio.
  3. Zyre03 if you love to whack & smack and break things ( TT balls ).
 
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This thread could have ended with one page. What FH rubber to choose? Namely:
  1. D09C if you love dominating fast attack close to table or on the table quick loop ala CNT flavour.
  2. D05 if you love to loop here and there, running around the table for great cardio.
  3. Zyre03 if you love to whack & smack and break things ( TT balls ).
I don't like to whack and smack and break things. No points for guessing what rubber I am using....
 
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This thread could have ended with one page. What FH rubber to choose? Namely:
  1. D09C if you love dominating fast attack close to table or on the table quick loop ala CNT flavour.
  2. D05 if you love to loop here and there, running around the table for great cardio.
  3. Zyre03 if you love to whack & smack and break things ( TT balls ).
What about Tenergy?

Cheers
L-zr
 
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Tenergy? Nup.

The real unc rubber is short pips forehand. You get the aura of one as well.
There exist uncles in their sixties or seventies with silver hair and with port-belly protruding that uses one ply hinoki JPen with T05 red and painted black on the other side.

No BH, only block, push and drive. Three strokes, that's all they know.
 
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There exist uncles in their sixties or seventies with silver hair and with port-belly protruding that uses one ply hinoki JPen with T05 red and painted black on the other side.

No BH, only block, push and drive. Three strokes, that's all they know.
That T05 is 5 years old I guess?
 
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I got the loki rxton 3 blue 2,1max for my birthday now. But I am quite happy with the t19 for now. I will give it a try once I need to change my rubbers again. I dont know how long the t19 will last..
Man that rubber stinks hard. Not sure where to stock it till then.
Does it need boosting?
I got Rxton 3 Green which quickly became my favorite fh rubber, it is good for bh as well. I am advance beginner on low club level. But it does not stink - bought two of them.
 
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Alright @Zezima I've watched a few of the videos and read some of the topics. Not all of them, but they seem to derail which puts me off, can't help that. Let me tell you how I see things:

1. You are highly focused on details. Hate to break it to you, but there's just no time for that in a match. Pro players put a lot of attention on details because their fundamentals are rock solid. They don't have to think about that. So you will see a lot of teaching videos from experienced/pro players that put a bunch of attention to details - just stop watching those. They will be useful in 3-5 years if and when you have cemented your fundamentals.

2. You play tentative, which tells me you simply have too many options in your shot selection, leading to just blocking the ball back onto the table while building up tension, frustration maybe, and releasing that into a poorly controlled topspin. Where I see opponents immediately switching to attack stance as soon as they notice the ball leaving your bat in their FH direction, which means they have a plan.

3. Your shoulders are tense. When you're tense, only the perfectly placed ball will allow you to land that loop. You can't make mid-air corrections, your hitbox is very small. Conscious relaxation is the obvious step here, but having a game plan will absolutely help with that, too.

4. Most of your strokes look good in a directional sense, and I can totally understand why you expect the results to be as good as the movements look, but there's not much of a cause and effect for this in TT. People can have the ugliest techniques and still produce high quality balls, and vice versa. The ball contact is where this quality is determined, not the second before, not the second after. Backswing and follow-through are essentially just constructs to promote the right angles and contact points, and hopefully allowing for corrections mid-air.
Whipping through the ball, dragging it across the rubber, creating friction / biting the ball, contacting a specific side of the ball, those are all things that are absolutely essential to producing consistent, quality balls.

5. You have said, and demonstrated, multiple times that you are well able to lift backspin. What you're missing is how to do it with a forward motion, adding (a little bit of) power to it. Lifting backspin upwards is just a matter of waiting for the ball to come down and brushing it up, looping backspin forwards adds a lot of timing to that, taking the ball a little earlier, pressing it into the rubber, creating friction by moving through the contact point fast enough to add your own spin while simultaneously creating a powerful contact. It's quite a learning curve move but a game changer once it feels easy enough to use in a match.


I won't leave you hanging, here's my suggestions to improve this situation.

First, make a very simple game plan. My hunch when I look at you:
- You like the open rally (even if it tenses you up right now)
- For FH, anything low and half-long or longer, you open up (50% power), anything higher you add a little power (70% or so). Short balls, push until you get a better option.
- For BH, essentially the same I guess? If you don't trust your BH opening loop enough, just push.
- Place to your opponent's elbow unless you see a clear gap elsewhere.
- If your opponent attacks first, dial down the power just a little and block/drive into the hard to reach spots. Keep making active ball contact but do it at 30-40%.

Do not make it more complicated than that.


Now, what you can train to help with this:

Irregular drills. Like, a crapton of them. Not just placement, but also where your opponent gets to choose between attacking or pushing. Start with two-step drills like one ball to the middle, one to a corner, but don't be afraid to go to more complicated ones! It's OK if you only finish one of them completely. In my humble opinion, and especially against lower rated people, irregular drills are the best way to improve your match play.

Matchplay, focusing on one aspect only. For instance, you want to train your BH opening, then that's what you'll be doing. Take the more risky balls and loop them too. It doesn't matter if you lose the match, this is training.

For your FH, don't go straight into looping backspin balls on training. Go from open driving FH-FH and slightly increase towards a looping ball from there. Not too fast, you want the easy balls that you can keep up for 100+ times. Keep that up for quite a bit so that movement is all warmed up and only then do you want to try and loop balls with backspin. Don't step back, don't let them drop almost below the table but hit it in the gliding phase of the ball, where it just starts descending. The ball will start slowing down there, too, so you *have* to hit forward to add speed.


As for your equipment, honestly it won't matter much and depends on your preferred approach. If you want to focus on single-ball-quality, you will have to give up on control and ultimately be able to land less quantity. If you want to focus on quantity, you will have to give up on single-ball-quality.
Getting better quality from a control focused setup requires consistent practice, and so does getting better quantity from a quality-focused setup. It takes a couple of years to not have to think about your blade at all anymore. Rubbers, at least 6 months until they're mostly in your subconscious. So if you want to put your focus on other things, remember that any change of gear will set you back for months, and because it takes up conscious space it will eat away your capacity to improve on other stuff.
 
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@Tyce thank you. I bust skimmed through but will read more carefully tomorrow again.




Here is me focusing on the bh open up and fh not changing racket angle technique.

I also filmed my match. Even though I won twice 3-1 I did the same mistakes. My bh in open play(vs block) is really good got me many straight winners.

My open up vs backspin with bh and fh is too much brushing and upwards motion. My bh balls land very short but very spinny close to the net. My fh open up has no energy transfer with the legs.

My fh in open play vs block is really good if I don't let the ball drop at table height.

I lose many points if I go back and he blocked short or with wide angles. Then I still scoop and give a very weak ball back.

I think its time I learn more agressive loops vs backspin and stop with this upwards only motion. In germany I face players who like smashing these away.

Right now I get away with the amount of spin and them not being used to the placement and pace of my balls.

I beat a 1670TTR in the last tournament on Sunday. I beat another player 2x who has 1550 which I lost to 2-3 2x prior. But thats just result oriented I watched the games and I was using my old technique... I wish I could loop like my fh in this video in the matches aswell. Looks very clean to me now. Also first time ever I got the technique right before having to watch my footage. I think its getting in my subconsious slowly.
What do you think?
 
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@Tyce thank you. I bust skimmed through but will read more carefully tomorrow again.




Here is me focusing on the bh open up and fh not changing racket angle technique.

I also filmed my match. Even though I won twice 3-1 I did the same mistakes. My bh in open play(vs block) is really good got me many straight winners.

My open up vs backspin with bh and fh is too much brushing and upwards motion. My bh balls land very short but very spinny close to the net. My fh open up has no energy transfer with the legs.

My fh in open play vs block is really good if I don't let the ball drop at table height.

I lose many points if I go back and he blocked short or with wide angles. Then I still scoop and give a very weak ball back.

I think its time I learn more agressive loops vs backspin and stop with this upwards only motion. In germany I face players who like smashing these away.

Right now I get away with the amount of spin and them not being used to the placement and pace of my balls.

I beat a 1670TTR in the last tournament on Sunday. I beat another player 2x who has 1550 which I lost to 2-3 2x prior. But thats just result oriented I watched the games and I was using my old technique... I wish I could loop like my fh in this video in the matches aswell. Looks very clean to me now. Also first time ever I got the technique right before having to watch my footage. I think its getting in my subconsious slowly.
What do you think?
Your shot quality has improved across your shots. But IMO it feels like you are just sending the ball back, not finishing the point.

"I think it's time I learn more aggressive loops" 100%. The longer the rallies and matches, the better an opponent can find your weakness and exploit it.

For your FH, you are taking the ball a fraction too late. The ball is dropping too much, so your shot is more spin-focused and less powerful. If you watch your first video, notice how you are the one sitting back from the table and your opponent is at the table. If you are looping, this scenario should never happen. They are hardly moving, and you are jumping around...if you see this, you are not hitting the ball fast enough and are in danger of them putting the ball down the line on your BH. You need more speed and power to take the pressure off you and put it all on them, driving them back from the table because they can't control the ball. Yes, you are doing a drill, but you want them to still be forced to be blocking a bit back from the table. I would love to see you drive your opponent back from the table more. I think you will start to dominate players when you learn to identify your opponent at the table and learn to exploit this.

I think you need to be moving your upper body sooner so that you are in position earlier to play your shot earlier and with confidence. You will notice a lot of top top players bring the blade back close to the body as they move, as it is a shorter distance, allowing them to be in position earlier. The movement is more of a flow than a stiff back-and-forth motion that is taught at the start of Table Tennis. But this is all getting complicated.

Personally, I do not do these endless back-and-forth drills. For your FH, FH, BH drill....I would absolutely kill that BH as the objective of the drill would be for me to hit a winner on that BH shot. If I don't, I failed the drill. Alternatively, I would FH, FH BH, FH Kill shot if your BH is not up for it yet. This could mean a big movement for your FH to open up the table. If your FH is a better kill shot, it is good to develop the movement, control and positioning so your opponent feels like they can't get away from it. I guess what I am trying to say is don't do endless drills with no point-winning objective. This is training putting the ball back on the table when you need to be training to win the point.
 
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@Tyce thank you. I bust skimmed through but will read more carefully tomorrow again.




Here is me focusing on the bh open up and fh not changing racket angle technique.

I also filmed my match. Even though I won twice 3-1 I did the same mistakes. My bh in open play(vs block) is really good got me many straight winners.

My open up vs backspin with bh and fh is too much brushing and upwards motion. My bh balls land very short but very spinny close to the net. My fh open up has no energy transfer with the legs.

My fh in open play vs block is really good if I don't let the ball drop at table height.

I lose many points if I go back and he blocked short or with wide angles. Then I still scoop and give a very weak ball back.

I think its time I learn more agressive loops vs backspin and stop with this upwards only motion. In germany I face players who like smashing these away.

Right now I get away with the amount of spin and them not being used to the placement and pace of my balls.

I beat a 1670TTR in the last tournament on Sunday. I beat another player 2x who has 1550 which I lost to 2-3 2x prior. But thats just result oriented I watched the games and I was using my old technique... I wish I could loop like my fh in this video in the matches aswell. Looks very clean to me now. Also first time ever I got the technique right before having to watch my footage. I think its getting in my subconsious slowly.
What do you think?

Your BH is very brush and spin focused. Your BH looks more like a slow banana flick in a way. I think your wrist and elbow look unstable, so your initial contact is very soft, and then you can't create a snap in your BH to generate power yourself. IMO, you are not activating your rubber at all. You have to keep in mind that modern-day rubbers have installed power in the sponge and with the heavy ball you need to unlock this sponge power. I have been working on the relaxed but stable wrist and stable elbow technique, which is meant to be better with the heavier ball. I have noticed a dramatic improvement in the power in my BH and I have better control and power. The T05 loves this technique as the rubber is able to put plenty of power into the ball with high spin.

A good starter video on it.

 
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Your shot quality has improved across your shots. But IMO it feels like you are just sending the ball back, not finishing the point.

"I think it's time I learn more aggressive loops" 100%. The longer the rallies and matches, the better an opponent can find your weakness and exploit it.

For your FH, you are taking the ball a fraction too late. The ball is dropping too much, so your shot is more spin-focused and less powerful. If you watch your first video, notice how you are the one sitting back from the table and your opponent is at the table. If you are looping, this scenario should never happen. They are hardly moving, and you are jumping around...if you see this, you are not hitting the ball fast enough and are in danger of them putting the ball down the line on your BH. You need more speed and power to take the pressure off you and put it all on them, driving them back from the table because they can't control the ball. Yes, you are doing a drill, but you want them to still be forced to be blocking a bit back from the table. I would love to see you drive your opponent back from the table more. I think you will start to dominate players when you learn to identify your opponent at the table and learn to exploit this.

I think you need to be moving your upper body sooner so that you are in position earlier to play your shot earlier and with confidence. You will notice a lot of top top players bring the blade back close to the body as they move, as it is a shorter distance, allowing them to be in position earlier. The movement is more of a flow than a stiff back-and-forth motion that is taught at the start of Table Tennis. But this is all getting complicated.

Personally, I do not do these endless back-and-forth drills. For your FH, FH, BH drill....I would absolutely kill that BH as the objective of the drill would be for me to hit a winner on that BH shot. If I don't, I failed the drill. Alternatively, I would FH, FH BH, FH Kill shot if your BH is not up for it yet. This could mean a big movement for your FH to open up the table. If your FH is a better kill shot, it is good to develop the movement, control and positioning so your opponent feels like they can't get away from it. I guess what I am trying to say is don't do endless drills with no point-winning objective. This is training putting the ball back on the table when you need to be training to win the point.
Yeah the point of the drill was to play as many ball exchanges as possible. Why? To get that new technique into my system. So the more balls I play the better I thought. And also at a good pace where my form doesn't break.

My opp is also weaker than me he is around 1250. But he was good to train with.

Anyway I agree with the bh against backspin I am brushing a lot. But in matchplay vs block I "hit" a lot. So basically I need to learn that vs backspin more. Maybe that's why in matchplay I am not as confident opening up with the bh.

Next time I am planning to combine both slowly. So basically the fh fh bh drill I would do 2 sets and in the last set I go for a bh kill and also for a fh kill. How does that sound?

With the bh open up I will try to brush less and hit more. With the fh I am so happy. I only achieved the constant blade angle in static drills only. Now was the first time me achieving it while having to move around aswell.

Nevertheless for now I am happy that the consistency was much better even though the quality was only a slow spinny loop especially with bh. I watched my matchplay and whenever he attacked those the ball flew out. So eventually I got a passive block back.
 
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I think this is probably true but also foolish. I see many players with great form and play do amazing against similar players. Then they get a 3 level lower push pips player and they fall apart. Or they get a 2 level lower similar style player and the lower level player does awkward things do to their ack of skill and the higner level player can't comprehend it.

I think high level players must play with lower level players so they get awkward balls. If they practice awkward balls they won't miss those agains better players as much. Might make a difference between winning or losing.
I am that player against same lvl or better i play amazing. Lower lvl pips or anti is my cryptonite.
 
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Alright @Zezima I've watched a few of the videos and read some of the topics. Not all of them, but they seem to derail which puts me off, can't help that. Let me tell you how I see things:

1. You are highly focused on details. Hate to break it to you, but there's just no time for that in a match. Pro players put a lot of attention on details because their fundamentals are rock solid. They don't have to think about that. So you will see a lot of teaching videos from experienced/pro players that put a bunch of attention to details - just stop watching those. They will be useful in 3-5 years if and when you have cemented your fundamentals.
I just care about fundamentals. For example it's hard to implement more power from hips and legs if my swingpath looks like this (on the fh): __/ basically closed to open right before contact. This makes me scared right at contact to hit the ball harder. This is why I am obsessed with that now and try to fix it. So I can finally start implementing more power into my shots. Last training session I was happy with it. I also realize that if I feel no bad muscle cramps or anything. Right now I could go on forever but my legs or my C02 give up. No problems with shoulder or arm.
2. You play tentative, which tells me you simply have too many options in your shot selection, leading to just blocking the ball back onto the table while building up tension, frustration maybe, and releasing that into a poorly controlled topspin. Where I see opponents immediately switching to attack stance as soon as they notice the ball leaving your bat in their FH direction, which means they have a plan.
Maybe in my brain I have multiple option but my subconsious knows which option is realistic. And usually it's pushing or scooping back because with my curvy swingpath it breaks me just before/at contact if I misscalculate the ball/spin. Yesterday with the right motion even though my timing was off on some balls because of the swingpath it didn't matter at what point I was contacting the ball it would still land on the table. With my old technique this is more error prone.
3. Your shoulders are tense. When you're tense, only the perfectly placed ball will allow you to land that loop. You can't make mid-air corrections, your hitbox is very small. Conscious relaxation is the obvious step here, but having a game plan will absolutely help with that, too.
I disagree. My shoulders are not tense at all. Care to elaborate more how you came to this conclusion maybe with a timestamp? If I realize I need to do mid air corrections I default to a passive stroke instead.
4. Most of your strokes look good in a directional sense, and I can totally understand why you expect the results to be as good as the movements look, but there's not much of a cause and effect for this in TT. People can have the ugliest techniques and still produce high quality balls, and vice versa. The ball contact is where this quality is determined, not the second before, not the second after. Backswing and follow-through are essentially just constructs to promote the right angles and contact points, and hopefully allowing for corrections mid-air.
Whipping through the ball, dragging it across the rubber, creating friction / biting the ball, contacting a specific side of the ball, those are all things that are absolutely essential to producing consistent, quality balls.
How can you say my strokes look good in directional sense when the swingpath is curved up from closed to open. This is far from "good". You can have ugly technique but for me if it limits you from hitting hard its bad. So eg. Arunas technique might not be textbook like but he can hit hard with it and be consistent. So it's good. Mine is not good. Even though in my last training session I could really feel I can hit as hard as I want to. So it's getting better.
I don't care if my backswing starts at my left thigh like FZD or right thigh like other chinese players or at hip level whats important is the quality and can I go as much forwards as I would like to.
5. You have said, and demonstrated, multiple times that you are well able to lift backspin. What you're missing is how to do it with a forward motion, adding (a little bit of) power to it. Lifting backspin upwards is just a matter of waiting for the ball to come down and brushing it up, looping backspin forwards adds a lot of timing to that, taking the ball a little earlier, pressing it into the rubber, creating friction by moving through the contact point fast enough to add your own spin while simultaneously creating a powerful contact. It's quite a learning curve move but a game changer once it feels easy enough to use in a match.
I agree as I mentioned in my earlier post this needs some work. Right now I seem to not get punished 95%. Even the 1800TTR players block it back most of the time. The only time they smash is if I loop it very high slow and shortish. So I could argue that I should note it but it's not a "fix immediately" problem. Right now it wins me way more points than it loses me.
I won't leave you hanging, here's my suggestions to improve this situation.

First, make a very simple game plan. My hunch when I look at you:
- You like the open rally (even if it tenses you up right now)
I only like it if the pace is not high and I am not the one reacting. Once I get a slowish long ball that has some pace that one I like to attack.
- For FH, anything low and half-long or longer, you open up (50% power), anything higher you add a little power (70% or so). Short balls, push until you get a better option.
In a real match "anything higher" I actually go with the intent of 100%. But because I am tense in the arm and my swingpath not being ideal it gives me 70% output. Short balls I will push more long and hard. I think I fuck up myself trying to push short and it ends up somewhat highish and half longish so they attack.
- For BH, essentially the same I guess? If you don't trust your BH opening loop enough, just push.
I already do this but if I never do it in matches I will keep defaulting to push. I did start some open ups with my bh. Maybe be a bit more selective but definitely open up 50% of the times.
- Place to your opponent's elbow unless you see a clear gap elsewhere.
This is really hard. Usually my shots are quite slow so even if I place there they somehow make space to hit the balls. I do think I should work on the quality/consistency apartment more than giving a weak ball to the elbow. Ill give myself a year at most to achieve that quality.
- If your opponent attacks first, dial down the power just a little and block/drive into the hard to reach spots. Keep making active ball contact but do it at 30-40%.
This is what I realized in training aswell. I do seem to have the ability to pressure them with their own ball by just driving back. Something between an active block and just holding the racket is enough and try to give the ball to places where they are less likely to attack me. And once I get the ball I can kill it or topspin it to end the point.
In matches I seem to think about topspinning myself and then I am late for even the block/drive and it ends up being a weak ball.
Do not make it more complicated than that.


Now, what you can train to help with this:

Irregular drills. Like, a crapton of them. Not just placement, but also where your opponent gets to choose between attacking or pushing. Start with two-step drills like one ball to the middle, one to a corner, but don't be afraid to go to more complicated ones! It's OK if you only finish one of them completely. In my humble opinion, and especially against lower rated people, irregular drills are the best way to improve your match play.
I agree I just did one yesterday. I need to find a list or make one myself to go from easy ones to more harder ones. And then pick those that is possible with my partners. Also maybe just 2 rounds and on the 2nd round go for a finishing shot.
Matchplay, focusing on one aspect only. For instance, you want to train your BH opening, then that's what you'll be doing. Take the more risky balls and loop them too. It doesn't matter if you lose the match, this is training.
I do this already. But for the past 4months it was only just about the fh. Kinda neglected my bh.
For your FH, don't go straight into looping backspin balls on training. Go from open driving FH-FH and slightly increase towards a looping ball from there. Not too fast, you want the easy balls that you can keep up for 100+ times. Keep that up for quite a bit so that movement is all warmed up and only then do you want to try and loop balls with backspin. Don't step back, don't let them drop almost below the table but hit it in the gliding phase of the ball, where it just starts descending. The ball will start slowing down there, too, so you *have* to hit forward to add speed.
If you mean general. I am warming up 2-5min drives then block then 2-5min fh Topspin but at a slower pace as you said those I could go for 100+. Then I do regular drills like fh from fh/middle or fh-fh-bh like I did yesterday. And then I go for a irregular drill but past months it was always with a serve open up. So I work on open up and then follow up topspin. But here the focus was on activating the sponge and not at what timing I was hitting the ball. I will be more cautious about the timing and try to hit at peak timing. But back then it was too much to think about everything at once.
As for your equipment, honestly it won't matter much and depends on your preferred approach. If you want to focus on single-ball-quality, you will have to give up on control and ultimately be able to land less quantity. If you want to focus on quantity, you will have to give up on single-ball-quality.
Getting better quality from a control focused setup requires consistent practice, and so does getting better quantity from a quality-focused setup. It takes a couple of years to not have to think about your blade at all anymore. Rubbers, at least 6 months until they're mostly in your subconscious. So if you want to put your focus on other things, remember that any change of gear will set you back for months, and because it takes up conscious space it will eat away your capacity to improve on other stuff.
Forget equipment I am good to go with t19 it just slips completely sometimes. I just wonder if it's due to air or maybe since the topsheet is not as gripps as d09c it just immediately slips if it's contacted too thin. For fucksake I beat a 1680TTR and another one I lost 2-3 my problem is not the equipment (anymore) I am much more offensive after the equipment change.

Again thanks for the subjectiv feedback. If anyone has a list of irregular drills that would be cool. Otherwise I will try to find it myself.
 
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