Different behaviour of a blade after a shock ?

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Hi fellow pongistes,
For some weeks, I played with a Stiga Cybershape Carbon CWT that I like very much. I bought it at a very fair price in Vinted to a nice fellow. The blade was not brand new but without any damage. I loved it immediately, and it's normal because it has the same composition than my DHS King acB i've been very satisfied with. And it's only 79gr without any weight added at the bottom.

Unfortunately some weeks after this steal, at the end of a squad championship game, my blade began to have a weird feeling on some strokes : very slower than before, and with a *chboing* sound and vibration, like a very cheap wood blade. It was only on a few strokes, and it was at the very end of the day, so I did not really focused on it. But during the next 2 training sessions, it had that behaviour on every stroke, when hitting most of the surface, whether it was FH or BH. Only the top of the surface was ok.

I removed the rubber, glued again : same behaviour. I unglued the FH and glue another one I wanted to test : same behaviour. Then I remembered that during my last game, I hit the table with the blade while trying to save a ball. There's a clear hit on the edge, but no crack at all, anywhere. I then wonder why the blade became like this.

I bought another one on Vinted. Received it yesterday and glued my usual rubbers on it. But before trying it, I tried again the other blade, on which I changed nothing. And, what a surprise, the blade was exactly how I loved it at first. During one hour, it was perfect. Then, like the first time, it began to *chboing* again on some stroke and to lose its speed. It happened on 1 stroke out of 10, until the end of the session.

I absolutely don't understand what's happening to my blade. Did that happen to any of you ? I would like to keep that blade, but I can't trust it, it can make me lose points at any moment, without any warning. @SDC , or any other blade handcrafters, would you have any clue ?
 
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Did you get them from the same seller? Sounds like something is delaminating inside... Any knowledge of water damage, or excessive heat exposure?
That, or poor quality. I wouldn't be surprised after the amount of Intensity blades reportedly breaking.
 
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Did you get them from the same seller? Sounds like something is delaminating inside... Any knowledge of water damage, or excessive heat exposure?
That, or poor quality. I wouldn't be surprised after the amount of Intensity blades reportedly breaking.
Not the same seller. But the first blade has been very consistant for weeks. And the issue appeared (maybe coincidentally?) after a shock.

No water damage, but it's very hot in the south of France right now. But even that is not very consistant with yesterday's condition. It was hotter at the beginning, and yet the issue came back when the temperature became bearable.
 
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1000152418.jpg
1000152415.jpg

Can you see anything? Hard to be closer and keep focus with my phone.
 
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Handle coming off would be my first suspicion, as has been mentioned. You can spot it by applying some light pressure on the blade face while holding the handle, as you do when you wipe the rubbers. Wouldn't call it a fracture, though, since top ply and handle were separate pieces to start with.
 
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If it's an internal crack you won't be able to see anything, but you can try taking the rubbers off and do some acoustic testing. If the blade resonates with a "buzzing" sound at some spots, something is loose in whatever sense. I had a blade with internal breaks near the handle and the clearest symptoms were some weirdly positioned dead spots.
 
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Based on your description, it sounds like a crack on one side of the handle near the chord, or the top of the handle is separating from the blade. Separation can be checked with a thin blade, but a small crack can be extremely difficult to detect without removing the handle. Here's an example in the photo.
20260407_154802.jpg
 

SDC

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I don't think that it's the handle coming loose, if that were the case then the blade wouldn't come back to normal, it would stay like that. Same thing for a crack. I think it's the Carbon layer separating from the wood. From what I could see in the Carbonado series, Stiga doesn't use epoxy to glue the Carbon, but a relatively flexible glue that stays mildly tacky even after it has cured. Not sure if they are doing the same thing here, but it could explain how the blade returns to normal after it adheres again temporarily, but not as strongly as in the beginning, coming loose again.
 
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Oh, I would not have figured it was a crack, but the mark of the handle glue, or some rubber glue residue that accumulates here. But I guess you must feel the crack with your fingernail.

@SDC Thanks for your insight. I think you now have a clue of what kind of blade I'll make you build once it's my turn :sneaky:
 
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says I like to put heavy topspin on the ball
says I like to put heavy topspin on the ball
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Oh, I would not have figured it was a crack, but the mark of the handle glue, or some rubber glue residue that accumulates here. But I guess you must feel the crack with your fingernail.

@SDC Thanks for your insight. I think you now have a clue of what kind of blade I'll make you build once it's my turn :sneaky:

This is the type of neck crack I'm talking about:


I've had it happen to me, however only with a blade that had a very narrow neck (Waldner Dicon JO shape) and thin allwood blades (Stiga Allround, Donic Defplay)
 
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