Loki RXTON 9 new sponge.

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And what about the Telson Superthick that was supposed to be released ?
The June 2026 sales catalogue Yummy sent me doesn't list a price for that particular model, which usually means it's still in development (they did this with the R7 as well in previous years).

If I had to guess 🤔 (...and I am...) then maybe the superthick Telson rubber will be launched as one of their flagship models, once they shift the rest of their product lines over to their new sponge. Much as I like the current Telson 100 Hyper, I can't see it working too well if they were simply to try making its current sponge thicker. Most likely they would have to shift to a different sponge altogether.

I wonder if Loki cancelling / relaunching so many of its current rubbers is due to the development and apparent success of the Butterfly Zyre 🤔🤔

Butterfly caught a lot of competing manufacturers flat footed when it released the Tenergy 05 -- It took other factories a really long time to catch up.

I'm therefore guessing that there's a lot of mid-upper tier brands like Loki that really don't want to be left behind again. If this change permanently fixes Loki's recurrent QA problems of the past then it can only be a good thing.

(And to be fair, while I'm gonna miss the R9 National, I can't deny the R9 OS that replaced also it generates a LOT more spin on average 😎😎).
 
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Is that some sort of Zyre like rubber ? Seems like many chinese brand are releasing thick sponge rubber.
If they want to compete with the Zyre, they have to change not only the thickness, but also the sponge. Telson 100 needs lots of boosting to be close to ESN rubbers. And it's weird to keep the Telson name for a Zyre clone, because Telson was an BH advertised rubber.
 
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Good luck to Loki and other manufs without serious R&D and engineering knowledge if they wanna replicate something like Zyre. Existing rubbers already have topsheet wear and bubbling issues, and a super thin topsheet will only exaggerate those. :)
Well let's hope other brands brings innovation not just Butterfly in the rubber section.
To my knowledge, the first hybrid was Stiga genesis (which btw was a terrible rubber). Other than that, BTY was the only one innovating with spring sponge, new top sheet long lasting tech with dignics, and now Zyre.
China is leading in many areas now, tech, car, space, energy. But somehow the number 1 sport in the country, they don't innovate much or proves that they are trying to become the best. Seems odd to me. They have almost unlimited brain ressources and money to present new tech. Idk, for pips the alignment does make a difference, but for backside, I feel like they are all arranged the same. Could be an "idea" for a new rubber ? Could a super small sponge with long pips backside could be a thing too ? Would be nice to release one rubber.
 
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Well let's hope other brands brings innovation not just Butterfly in the rubber section.
To my knowledge, the first hybrid was Stiga genesis (which btw was a terrible rubber). Other than that, BTY was the only one innovating with spring sponge, new top sheet long lasting tech with dignics, and now Zyre.
China is leading in many areas now, tech, car, space, energy. But somehow the number 1 sport in the country, they don't innovate much or proves that they are trying to become the best. Seems odd to me. They have almost unlimited brain ressources and money to present new tech. Idk, for pips the alignment does make a difference, but for backside, I feel like they are all arranged the same. Could be an "idea" for a new rubber ? Could a super small sponge with long pips backside could be a thing too ? Would be nice to release one rubber.
Really long pips and a really thin sponge would have super high load sensitivity and a very low input force cap, so it'd be worse in every way for grip; but it'd be very stable and not very dynamic.
 
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Really long pips and a really thin sponge would have super high load sensitivity and a very low input force cap, so it'd be worse in every way for grip; but it'd be very stable and not very dynamic.
I see this more as a Pimple kind of player. 1 normal and 1 weird rubber to confuse the opponent. But idk, I am not working in TT tech, so I have no idea what is possible or not, and what does what
 
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Okay then....

After what seems an age thinking about it, I've decided to dip my toe into the dark side so to speak and decided to try boosting my current R9 OS set up (largely out of persistent EJ-driven curiosity more than anythjng else).

I'm sharing the details of this boosting experiment here on TTD for the common good -- these new R9s are just too cheap and too damn spinny for me to completely turn my back on them out of spite alone. Hopefully I can coax some R9 national level playing feel out if them to go with that spin...

Currently I'm rocking an unboosted 37.5 degree Red R9 OS and 39 degree in black, mounted to one of my own blade models.

As I utterly loathe the squishy, saggy feeling of over-boosted rubbers, I'm only putting a single layer of booster on the black side for now, while leaving the red side unboosted as a control of sorts. I figure its better to under boost at this point rather than over boost.

Given the red rubber's current softness, I want to to see if it will feel more R9National-like with just a little more use / playing-in time, without any aftermarket boosting.

I was going to boost with either baby oil or food-grade mineral oil, but then I remembered a mate of mine gave me a half full bottle of Pinyi Quick-Dry a while back, so I used that instead (first time for everything I guess 😂😂)

I used the provided applicator sponge to lay down a single thin layer directly on the sponge layer -- it spread beautifully evenly and soaked into the sponge very quickly (which was surprising, given the trouble others have experienced boosting the orange sponge).

The cut rubber edges started to curl almost immediately on laying down the booster, which I feel is a good sign. I'm gonna let the rubber to dry out for at few hours, then will re-glue and re-mount it, and see how we go.

Originally I had both my OS R9s mounted on a Dante (a fast, soft-playing, semi-bouncy attacking inner carbon blade of my own design -- it plays a bit like a cross between a viscaria and a primorac, but has a very soft and silky limba like playing feel which appeals to me greatly).

This time 'round however I'll use a different blade, as I don't want the Dante's popping catapult to interfere with the rubber's feel post-boosting.

Not sure what blade I'll switch to yet, but will report back on both my blade choice and the playing results a little later on once I get a chance to play test the new set up properly.

Stay tuned for details...

=========
LATE EDIT:
=========

Went back to check the rubber after an hour or so. No doming was present whatsoever and there was no obvious / discernible change in hardness from before. I only put on a single very thin layer, so I guessed I might not have used enough.

I then compared the size and thickness of the boosted Black FH rubber with the un-boosted red rubber that came off the same blade. They were both virtually the exact same thickness and size as before.

I therefore figured I probably went a bit too light on with the booster, so I added a second equally thin coat, as the first one had quite definitely dried completely in less than an hour.

That was all 10 minutes ago.

While the second layer still sunk in pretty quickly, it was also clearly absorbed into the sponge slower than before, and is also seemingly taking longer to dry.

I've therefore decided to call it quits there for booster, as I *really* don't want this 39 degree sponge to get too much softer... just a bit bouncier.

Will leave it another few hours to fully dry out, then re-mount.
 
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Even one layer of Haifu goes a long way. I find 2 layers of National booster actually too fast even with H3! I would definitely agree with starting off very mild and just increasing it until the point you feel ok with it.
Yeah, good advice -- we're on the same page there.

I really did go very light with each layer of booster, so hopefully I got the dosage just right.

If this approach and doseage works well, I'll probably use the exact same approach when it comes time to fit and try out the R9 Neo that's sitting in my new rubbers box, waiting in line for its turn.
 
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Yeah, good advice -- we're on the same page there.

I really did go very light with each layer of booster, so hopefully I got the dosage just right.

If this approach and doseage works well, I'll probably use the exact same approach when it comes time to fit and try out the R9 Neo that's sitting in my new rubbers box, waiting in line for its turn.
The first layer of booster never really seems to do much. I think it's just enough to very quickly soak in, so it never really leaves a layer that takes hours to dry. Don't be fooled into thinking it did nothing, though.

If it's Black + blue sponge, then it'll raise the center a bit; that's it. The hardness will go down 2.0 - 3.0 degrees. It will become a lot more elastic at low speed. Think of NEO H3 but maybe slightly stronger. A one-layer boosted rubber can usually be glued in 12-24h and it will stick even to a sealed blade.

It's one reason I prefer it over 2 layers, which is much more finnicky. You need to wait 48 hours for 2 layers with National boosters. The 2nd layer is more of the above but it also adds significant tension, making the rubber too much like hybrid for my taste. My National BS still feels a bit like Dignics 09c or Rakza 7 EH after a week!

Even with just one layer, the rubber won't feel super different to the touch off the blade, but on the blade it will feel a lot "gummier" and more hysteretic. The feel going in won't be the same as going out. So don't get fooled by the feel when off a blade.
 
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UPDATE:
========

That Pinyi Quick-Dry booster is extremely well named. Barely 3.5 hours after the first layer and 2.5hr after the second, my R9 Black is basically ready to mount. I've only ever boosted with food grade mineral oil before now, which does a fantastic job, but takes at least twice as long to dry.

I alsp know the Pinyi is fast drying by the way my eyes feel after using it.... it's really nasty stuff -- my eyes and the back of my throat both feel decidedly irritated currently, even after me taking all the recommended precautions (ventilation, gloves etc.... next time I'm pulling out my half face respirator with the VOC gas cartridges!! )

The label on the booster says (or implies) its VOC free, or at least low VOC, but after using it I *gotta* call BS on that one. No genuinely non-volatile substance behaves like this stuff has with my mucous membranes. (I really, really, *really* hate exposing myself to this kind of shit!! 🤢🤮)

Will fit the rubbers a little later -- it's late now so I'm off to bed. Will update this record later after mounting.
 
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UPDATE:
========

That Pinyi Quick-Dry booster is extremely well named. Barely 3.5 hours after the first layer and 2.5hr after the second, my R9 Black is basically ready to mount. I've only ever boosted with food grade mineral oil before now, which does a fantastic job, but takes at least twice as long to dry.

I alsp know the Pinyi is fast drying by the way my eyes feel after using it.... it's really nasty stuff -- my eyes and the back of my throat both feel decidedly irritated currently, even after me taking all the recommended precautions (ventilation, gloves etc.... next time I'm pulling out my half face respirator with the VOC gas cartridges!! )

The label on the booster says (or implies) its VOC free, or at least low VOC, but after using it I *gotta* call BS on that one. No genuinely non-volatile substance behaves like this stuff has with my mucous membranes. (I really, really, *really* hate exposing myself to this kind of shit!! 🤢🤮)

Will fit the rubbers a little later -- it's late now so I'm off to bed. Will update this record later after mounting.
pics of the curl?
 
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UPDATE:
========

That Pinyi Quick-Dry booster is extremely well named. Barely 3.5 hours after the first layer and 2.5hr after the second, my R9 Black is basically ready to mount. I've only ever boosted with food grade mineral oil before now, which does a fantastic job, but takes at least twice as long to dry.

I alsp know the Pinyi is fast drying by the way my eyes feel after using it.... it's really nasty stuff -- my eyes and the back of my throat both feel decidedly irritated currently, even after me taking all the recommended precautions (ventilation, gloves etc.... next time I'm pulling out my half face respirator with the VOC gas cartridges!! )

The label on the booster says (or implies) its VOC free, or at least low VOC, but after using it I *gotta* call BS on that one. No genuinely non-volatile substance behaves like this stuff has with my mucous membranes. (I really, really, *really* hate exposing myself to this kind of shit!! 🤢🤮)

Will fit the rubbers a little later -- it's late now so I'm off to bed. Will update this record later after mounting.
The claim is usually that at the time of gluing (Usually 24h after last layer), it will be low VOC. I wouldn't trust anything except Haifu and Falco to actually be because nothing else is used professionally IIRC.
 
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pics of the curl?
No can do sorry, it vanished on me without warning... it was there when I first applied the booster, when I next looked it was completely gone. The curl also did the same thing when i reapplied later.... it looked like it would curl when applying the liquid, but then just.... didn't.


Buggered if i know what happened - - I wanted really light boosting and it appears that maybe I got it??? 🤷‍♂️ Just downright weird that one....

Anyhoo... Will test the blade in the morning.
 
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No can do sorry, it vanished on me without warning... it was there when I first applied the booster, when I next looked it was completely gone. I wanted really light boosting and it appears that maybe i got it??? 🤷‍♂️ Just downright weird that one....

Will test the blade in the morning.
Unless you boost too much too soon, there will be curl which disappears pretty quickly. Even National Black on H3 blue sponge will revert to mostly flat in maybe 5, 6 hours or so. The middle will still be raised usually and it has massive tension; it's just more that the expansion rate of the topsheet has caught up more with the sponge, and the sponge has relaxed.
 
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Unless you boost too much too soon, there will be curl which disappears pretty quickly. Even National Black on H3 blue sponge will revert to mostly flat in maybe 5, 6 hours or so. The middle will still be raised usually and it has massive tension; it's just more that the expansion rate of the topsheet has caught up more with the sponge, and the sponge has relaxed.
I've boosted my Rxton 9 37.5 with a single layer of seamoon regular and its still not flat after almost 48 hours ( i put it on top of a water bottle for 6 hours just after boosting) waiting to glue it on monday so hopefully it will be almost flat
 
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Unless you boost too much too soon, there will be curl which disappears pretty quickly. Even National Black on H3 blue sponge will revert to mostly flat in maybe 5, 6 hours or so. The middle will still be raised usually and it has massive tension; it's just more that the expansion rate of the topsheet has caught up more with the sponge, and the sponge has relaxed.
My rubbers aren't flat even after 3 or 4 days with 2 layers of JieChi.
 
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I've boosted my Rxton 9 37.5 with a single layer of seamoon regular and its still not flat after almost 48 hours ( i put it on top of a water bottle for 6 hours just after boosting) waiting to glue it on monday so hopefully it will be almost flat
Probably not actually 4ml, and you left more on the brush. For me one layer is after draining it almost entirely dry! Takes a minute or two.

My rubbers aren't flat even after 3 or 4 days with 2 layers of JieChi.
Ditto.
 
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