Recent content by jaghaimo

My suggestion would be to pick one and stick with it for at least a year. It seems like you decided on the Korbel. It is a perfectly good blade; just use it. Shelve or sell other blades – just stop thinking about them. Your improvement is on hold while you switch gear. For rubbers you have two...

I assume your loops have at least a decent amount of backspin (can't be pushed). If there's hardly any spin and they are high, then you will always get smashed back – it's not a loop; it's a gift to the opponent in this case. If your loops are high, they have to be spinny (e.g. blocking flat...

As I said, there is a spread in D09c. This spread does not affect how you play D09c though. Can't tell much about this one outlier that I measured for a friend (equivalent of 39), as I never played with it. So pick 37 or 38 depending if you want softer or harder. Personally I went with 38 for...

I have measured multiple sheets of D09c and J3A. While I never had any spread in J3A (always same for a given hardness), I've seen a variance in D09c. Softer D09c (generally red) is like J3A 37 while harder are like J3A 38. Majority was equivalent of 38. Only one sheet I measured was the...

My sheet of Rakza Z EH was 50 deg on my Shore-0 durometer. The ESN values are generally 3-5 degrees more than what I measure. This is the same as H3 39 degrees, and similar to BlueGrip C2 (51). I once measured a D09C as 50 as well, most were 48 though.

Fastarc G-1 on forehand is a good pair for R7 on BH. A more budget version would be Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia, 38 degrees will pair well with R7 (will be a bit harder than R7), just note it is a tacky rubber.

Body to upper arm - you need to fit a fist under your armpit, the angle is around 30 degrees. Upper arm to lower arm - around 90 degrees. Legs - bent, body forward. Angle of your shins is the same as angle of your upper body (parallel). Two good videos to help you visualise the movment: I'd...

I have both. Out of all Chinese I tried (J3A, Big Dipper, Dragon-F, Battle 2) the boosted H8-80 plays most similar to D09C, as in I can use the same stroke with it. D09c is bouncier and it is easier to get the speed out of it. It is still fairly tame, but compared to it the H8-80 is easier to...

Chinese rubbers: On the forehand: Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 38 (or 39) OR DHS H8-80 38 (or 39) On the backhand: DHS H8-80 37 (or 38) With the H8-80 it's good to have a durometer, my sheet of 37 degrees was much harder (like I'd expect from 39-40 degrees) than the sheet of 38 degrees. I couldn't...

By friendly shots I assume the not attacking (smash or topspin). As a beginner I'd get the basic right and focus on technique (drive first, then topspin) and control. If doing FH to FH warmup, then focus on getting the ball in the same place all the time, regardless where your opponent sends...

Upload to a third party website and embed here. YouTube works fine.

I tried it in August, so on the old blade (Stiga Clipper) as a BH rubber and can say it was good for me - spin was ok and speed was easily accessible. On the other hand, I couldn't work the Dragon-F out, so had to use Jupiter 3 Asia (40) on FH instead. Dragon-L would be the non-tacky Chinese...

Yes, although in my case it would Yes I could see it working. In my case I will try MX-P though. I am tempted to try MX-P on both sides, or potentially MX-P 50 or MX-D. But one change at a time...

I play with D09c on HL5. On a FH it is good. On BH, I am looking to change it after our local league finishes. Maybe someone with a stronger BH could use it, but for me it is too hard. My two teammates have BTY Ovtcharov (it's inner ALC but fast, yet loopy) and playing D09c on that blade feels...

I can confirm. Moon 12 Blue was not tacky (also had medium-soft and medium-hard). I can't remember now, but it might have been able to grab the ball, e.g. lifting it for a split second (few mm off the table) and as such I would not call it tacky yet.