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Don't repeat my mistakes. I tried a lot of inexpensive сhinese rubber and couldn't find one that worked for my backhand. You'll end up spending more money on experimentation. There are excellent and relatively inexpensive rubbers from Nittaku (Fastarс series), Yasaka (Rakza series), Xiom (Vega...

Maybe it's for the best, because if there was a strong case, he would have broken his ribs :ROFLMAO:

I've already written in another thread about what I use for over 15 years, not only for myself but also for many friends, but I'll repeat it here because it's very inexpensive and produces a very high-quality cut. I use single-edged razor blades. Since the blade is very thin, it bends easily...

It will play great out of the box, since it has a factory booster, but after 2-3 weeks, the performance will drop by 1.5 times. If you want to play without a booster, then better the Double Fish Volant Phoenix 1. Hardness 39 feels like 41 for J3. Great rubber for the low price.

In my opinion, you are not doing anything so strange or stupid. Many amateurs do the same. For example, if you ate a ball after losing, that would be strange :-)

That's true, but Rakza Z is more sensitive to the opponent's rotation. A lot depends on his playing style. I recommended a more versatile rubbers. By the way, if it's too fast, he can go back to "good old" but new Mark 5.

I also wouldn't recommend a hybrid rubber for your friend, because the stickiness reduces speed and often hybrid rubbers require a faster blade. Rakza7, FastarcC1, VegaEurope will be a good upgrade

It's true, I like head balance myself, but a strong head balance prevents you from making sharp movements with your wrist, for example banana or topspin backhand. In addition, with such balance it is difficult to recover quickly for the next shot. Its better to have a "golden mean" in everything.

Factory handles are made of fineline - painted veneers that are glued together. I think the stickiness has more to do with this glue than lignin. I have a blade with a handle made of a whole piece of natural walnut, which is polished to a shine, but it is not sticky at all.

If we were playing with bare blades, you would be right, but we play with rackets assembled with rubbers, and the weight of the rubber is the same or greater than the weight of the blade itself, which significantly shifts the balance upwards. In addition, harder and therefore heavier rubbers are...

A fairly old Butterfly Keyshot Light blade. I'm not the first person to remove the handles on this blade, maybe someone made the cavity before me, but it seems that this is factory work. The second photo shows how Arylate looks like

It depends greatly on the glue. Almost all chinese rackets are glued with PVA, and they don't have any problems with heat—PVA softens easily. Butterfly uses a different glue, but it's also easily removable. Xiom uses cyanoacrylate glue, which is virtually unaffected by heat, only acetone and a...

When you have a lot of rackets stacked next to each other, they protect each other. It's much more important to keep the rubbers from different rackets from sticking together. Regular disposable plastic bags do a great job of this. Besides this reduces oxygen access to the entire rubber and not...

After sanding, as @Wakkibatty correctly noted, you'll likely lose some thickness on the handles. There's a way to restore this thickness. To do this, remove the handle halves using a utility knife and a heat gun. It's a good idea to heat them thoroughly to soften the glue holding the handles...

And there's nothing to play with :) Legend has it that when asked how many bikes do you need, a real rider always answers with the formula n + 1, where n is the number of bikes they already own. What is this blade with a star on the handle?

If with a booster, it should be normal

Yes and not just once. This helps even when a narrow waist. And if you use light veneer, such as ayous, it adds very little weight and does not change the balance of the racket.

You can make the handle thicker. To do this, remove the two handle halves and glue a sheet of veneer to each. Veneer is standardly 0.6 mm thick, so you'll add 1.2 mm. This is often enough. To remove the handle without too much trouble, heat it up with a heat gun and a utility knife. If you do...

I tried the J3 40, and it's not much faster than the J3 39. It does have a great topsheet, but the sponge lacks dynamism.

And the remaining 80 will buy Loki rubber