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mx-p has the same spin as tenergy, it is only harder to activate for low level players because the ball leaves the racket faster

victas ventus extra and xiom omega 5 tour

xiom blades are really good! extreme s is extreme! faster then a fast carbon blade. hayabusa zl pro is really good for development offensive s is also really good, behaves like a 7 ply but is actually 5 ply

i had this several times over the years with different glues. i think it happens more with heat. the tt shop in my town had the glues stored next to the window with the sun shining on. but they always gave me a new one when it happend

that would be one of the few moments where i would give that person a slow allround blade with beginner rubbers like vega intro or yinhe mercury to learn how to get power and spin from the body and not from the blade

you just pushing the ball forward without any real quality. try to actually swing and hit the ball - not hit the ball and then swing. rn it looks more like a counterspin then a topspin on block. second you are reaching for the ball a lot, let the ball come to you, be in position and get power...

i used it for a sheet of bluestar a1 that was beaten and it restored the tack. this with a tiny layer of falco booster can restore this beaten down sheet for some more weeks it seams!

that would be my question too! i will try to use it as a regular cleaner for my newer vega x and will report back. but the tack it is creating stays permanent. i tried to clean it away but it stayed tacky, so it seams to react with the topsheet and not just creates a tacky film

exactly this one. i used it first some years before i played hybrid rubbers. i think i didn’t noticed the light takiness before because i also did not had these protective foils at the time. but now i would say it makes the rubber the same tacky as a modern hybrid.

hey everyone, as stated in the title i recently noticed that my old rubber cleaner by revolution (bio cleaner & rejuvenator) actually makes my rubbers tacky! i didn’t used it for many years and recently my other cleaner got empty and i had no time to buy a new one, so i used the revolution...

good advice, would second both post! especially the service one!

from where do you base this on? a lot of people who had contact with hugo say that he uses HAL for a long time already and the rest we discussed broadly in this thread

this looks exactly like my blade i have no idea what you are trying to see here… just funny that the prototype had hugos face on the handle like ma longs blade :D

bigger headsize doesn't automatically mean more headheavy and always depends on the woodmaker and the intention. you can have a non-hollowed handle or use a heavier wood to balance out the bigger headsize, so smaller headsize blades can feel head heavy too. then you have the rubbers also to...

same blade. only difference is the same between two vis

thank you for clarifying!

@hipnotic i always thought that black limba is slightly harder than white limba?

kiri is lighter so you can use denser layers without getting to heavy or too stiff. but ayous is more elastic so gives more extra kick on stronger input. but light or thick ayous core can feel hollow and can vibrate a lot. usually outer carbon blades have kiri core and inner carbon blades have...

interesting this blade has an ayous core instead of kiri but still the axilium layer in orange. so this is definitly a special edition and will not play like one you could buy! maybe it was a test version between HAL and SAL but still crazy what people pay for a damaged blade…

did you boosted the rxton 7 compared to the lac? heard a lot of people play lac unboosted so i just wanted to ask